Countdown to Christmas 2016, Venice Style - Day 6

Ciao tutti!

One of my friends here in Venice came up with a very unique Advent calendar this year. I can't help myself, I have to share it here.  Thanks, Paolo. 

Brilliant idea, isn't it? 

Now, back to what is in store behind door #6. 

Today, I'm taking you on a walk to Rialto Bridge to meet a friend, Marco Jovon. Marco and his family have operated a jewellery shop on the bridge since 1934, first opened by Marco's grandfather. 

Walk into Gioielleria Eredi Jovon and you are walking into a unique part of Venice's past and present.  The tradition started by Marco's grandfather, continued on by his father Bruno is now proudly carried on by Marco, his mother Gabriella and the rest of the family. 

But Jovon's isn't just any ordinary jewellery shop. Marco hand carves exquisite one-of-a-kind cameos. At the shop you will find many works of art of Marco's own design, or you can request a custom design just for you.  

Marco and Giorgio, always ready to greet you with a smile.

The ancient tools for cameo engraving are still in use today.

Amazing, cameos all start from a shell similar to this one. 

photo www.eredijovon.com
One of Marco's latest creations, a blue cameo with woman at the Rialto bridge.

Inside the shop  a small cameo museum displays an unusual collection of family pieces. Jovon also sells other types of jewellery, including corals and Murano glass. 

I'm honored to be able to share another wonderfully talented Venetian artisan with you as part of my Countdown to Christmas, Venice style.  Hopefully, as you are walking over the famous Rialto bridge you will take a minute to stop in to meet Marco and his family, and perhaps take home a special cameo too. 

 You can find Gioielleria Eredi Jovon, San Marco 5325, on the Rialto Bridge.

For more information check out their website http://www.eredijovon.com/en/ or like their page on Facebook. Marco has written an ebook about cameos which is available for download on the website. 

To see my Countdown to Christmas 2014 - Day 6 post,  Just click here.  It's one of my favorite posts from that year - lucious cioccolata calda con panna (hot chocolate with creme)! Makes me want some right now. 

Today's advent calendar thanks to digsdigs.com.

Have a favorite post so far in this series?  Which Advent calendar did you like best? Suggestions?  I'd love to see your comments, so please leave a note for me in the comments section here. 

Ciao, Ciao!

Countdown to Christmas 2016, Venice Style- Day 5

Ciao tutti!

Welcome back!  First things first, I must thank each and every one of you for reading along as I countdown to Christmas. My blog has experienced record traffic this week over the last 4 days. Wow.  I am overwhelmed and just so grateful. 

I've been thinking what I would put into each of the little boxes of this advent calendar.  I'm pretty certain my choice would be a few delicious truffles in each box, each a day a different flavor. Wouldn't be too hard, I seem to love every kind of truffle I've ever had. Yes, truffles would do very nicely. 

In the previous days, I've introduced you to artisans who practice their crafts to keep Venetian traditions alive.  Today I'm introducing you to someone who is responsible for creating a Venetian landmark.  

Ready for today's reveal?  Drum roll, maestro, if you will.....

Meet Luigi Frizzo

We're back in Castello again today, at the  Libreria Acqua Alta. Luigi Frizzo's unusual and world famous haven for book lovers is tucked into an old warehouse in Campiello del Tintor, a few minutes off Campo Santa Maria Formosa. 

There's no bell for us to ring or "door" to use to gain access to this hidden paradise. Instead you just walk in the entrance, which has racks of  books, cards, maps and assorted postcards spilling out into the campiello.  Once you've made your way inside, you are usually greeted by both Luigi and a cat or two. 

While the shop itself, jammed to the rafters with new and used books, is something to marvel at, it's the owner who makes this place the gem that it is. Luigi opened the shop 15 yrs ago, and continues to add features to the shop each year. Books are stored in a variety of boats and bathtubs, even a gondola, in order to keep them up out of "Acqua Alta", high water.  Books that are unserviceable, such as old encyclopedias and waterlogged reference books, have been "re-used" to make stairs in the courtyard, or to line the walls of the rear entryway of the shop. 

While the water door is not the main entrance to the book shop, it probably is it's most recognizable feature. This doorway appears in countless photos all over the internet. Luigi's shop is listed as one of the 10 most unique bookshops in the world. After having visited the shop you'll understand exactly why it holds that distinction. 

Go ahead, I know you want to. "Follow the books".

This shop is all Luigi's creation-  his dream, his child,  his labor of love, his gift to Venice. 

Definitely put the Libreria Acqua Alta on your list of places to discover the next time you are in Venice. But don't just go to see the books. Please, go to meet Luigi. The man is a legend. And yes, the shop does get high water inside it!

Libreria Acqua Alta, Castello 5167 ,Campiello del Tintor. 

And once again, the link to Countdown to Christmas 2014- Day 5.  It's Italian Christmas carols!

Today's advent calendar thanks to Bloglovin'

A domani!!

Countdown to Christmas, Venice Style - Day 4

Ciao tutti! 

Grazie mille to all of you for reading and keeping up with my Countdown so far.  Please leave comments here, I would love to know what your feedback is. 

I LOVE, LOVE, LOVE the calendar I selected for today. I'd be very tempted to construct one of those for myself. Might have to tuck that idea into a folder for next year. Just maybe.  I love the vintage look of it, love the gold here and there. Gives it a little bit of glitz. 

And speaking of glitz, that's exactly what's behind door #4 today.  Come along with me, I'm going to take you on a little field trip, so I can show you what's behind the door at Cannaregio, #5182. 

We're visiting at the workshop of Mario Berta Battiloro, the last real producer of gold leaf left in Italy, and all of Europe for that matter. The Battiloro (literally gold beater) here is keeping the over 1,000 year old tradition of making gold leaf (and also silver and other minerals). The family craft began here in Venice in 1926, with this location opening in 1969. Today the whole operation is run by Marino Menegazzo, his wife (Mario Berta's daughter), their two daughters and 4 other staff. 

There is no machinery here. Every step is done exactly as it has for hundreds of years. Every bit of pounding of the gold until it is feather light and only microns thin is done completely by hand.  

 A series of heavy mallets are used to beat the gold, over and over and over again, until finally, Marino deems it perfect.

It is a fascinating process to watch, especially because nothing is automated. The gold, silver and other types of leaf produced here have been used all over Venice, and around the world on building projects, works of art, and even edible gold and now cosmetic products.

For me, being able to watch the work here at Mario Berta Battiloro was indeed like taking a step back in time. It's not often you meet an entire family so dedicated to preserving their craft. There's a bit of icing on the cake as well if you visit the Battiloro, because #5182 Cannaregio is also the home of another famous Venetian, Tiziano Vecellio, also known as Titian, one of Italy's most famous painters of the 1400's.  Walking in Titian's house gave me goosebumps. Seriously. 

For more information see the website www.berta-battiloro.com.  

Visits to the workshop are by appointment, for a small admission fee.

As Venice's population dwindles, artisans are forced to close their shops. Those that are left are a dying breed, unfortunately for all of us. I hope you will seek out these special doors next time you are in Venice, and treat yourself to a bit of the "other" Venice, the real Venice. 

I haven't forgotten the bonus -Link to Day 4 -Countdown to Christmas 2014. It's Babbo Natale !! 

Today's advent calendar is  from 2gypsygirls.com

Countdown to Christmas, Venice Style - Day 3

Ciao tutti!

I'm so excited about my choice for day #3 of the Venice Countdown to Christmas because there really and truly is some magic behind this door today, just as there is magic when you open the door to Roberto Comin's studio in Cannaregio.  Step inside and  you are in a fantasy world, a world full of whimsy and delight.  Roberto, a master craftsman, designs and creates puppets. 

Every part of the process, from the initial sketches to the final product, is done by Roberto and his family. They've been in business for 80 years, selling marionettes not only in Venice but worldwide.

Roberto invents a personality for each puppet which is reflected in the facial features and costume details. 

 If you visit Roberto's workshop, you'll find him bringing each of his characters to life for you as he demonstrates the mechanics of puppetry and introduces his cast of characters to you.

 

Yes, there are even Pinocchio's in Roberto's studio. He is, after all, quite a bit like the original Geppetto. 

You can find Roberto Comin's puppets in shops around Venice as well as on his website www.MarionettesinVenice.com. Roberto's studio is located at L'Isola di Pinocchio, Cannaregio 2417. It is possible to arrange visits to his workshop, details on the website. 

Most visitors to Venice see St. Mark's square, Rialto bridge, and the Grand Canal. If you take the time to  look behind closed doors, you will find some real treasures.  I hope my Countdown to Christmas Advent calendar will entice you to go seek out some of those doors. 


Last but not least - here's the link to Day 3 of my 2014 Countdown to Christmas. Chestnuts!  And I just saw some roasting over on Strada Nova in Cannaregio tonight!

Ciao tutti. A domani   (until tomorrow)


today's advent calendar from julegleder.blogspot.com

Countdown to Christmas, Venice Style - Day 2

from randomtuesdays.com

Ciao tutti!

Welcome back for another day of my Countdown to Christmas. Did you enjoy my Venice version of the 12 Days of Christmas?  Were you singing it all day today like we were? 

I love the Advent calendar idea I selected for today.  When I first looked at it, I thought you removed a cotton ball each day. Duh!  You put a new one in place each day.  Perfect. I loved it so much I had to put it here on Day 2 instead of later, so there are plenty of days left in the month in case any of you wanted to create one for the little ones in your lives to use. Have fun sticking cotton balls on Santa's face! 

Ok, so, on to what I have in store today. Instead of highlighting things or places around Venice that say Christmas to me,I've decided to give this years December Advent blog posts a different spin.  I'm shining a light  on people instead.  I've been incredibly fortunate to have met so many wonderful local people over the years. Time to share them with you. I hope you enjoy meeting these talented Venetians.

So without further ado, here's my pick for behind door #2.

I met Paolo Brandolisio the first year I ever visited Venice, on one of those days we were exploring (maybe it was more like wandering aimlessly lost) in the Castello district. Every time I stop by his shop, I am transported to another time, a very old Venice when artisans handcrafted everything, including the oars and forcole needed to row the gondolas. Inside Paolo's studio you will find him carving beautiful works of art, with tools handed down over the years from maestro Giuseppi Carli.  Now Paolo is the maestro himself.

To me, Paolo is artist, craftsman and magician, all rolled into one. 

The smells of freshly hewn wood and shavings all over the floor spell one thing only - Paolo's studio.
You can find him at Castello 4725,  where you can purchase one of his replica forcole, feri (the front piece on the gondola of iron, although Paolo's are wood), oars for kayaks, and now gorgeous handcarved bracelets. 

Link to the 2014 Countdown to Christmas Day 2 blog post.  Hope you also enjoy this one too, featuring the Pandoro, a traditional holiday dolce. 

Buona sera, tutti!

Countdown to Christmas - Venice Style, Day 1

Ciao tutti!

It's December 1 (well, it was about an hour ago still), and I decided at the last minute to do another round of my holiday advent calendars.  In 2014, I had great fun every day of December on my blog opening a new door each day, sharing something "Venetian" that reminded me of Christmas. 

This year I have something similar up my sleeves. I hope you'll flip open a new door with me every day as I countdown to Christmas.  I'll have a different photo of an advent calendar that peaks my fancy to share, as well. 

For December 1, I'm sharing my version of the 12 Days of Christmas with you. Remember that old favorite Christmas song?  Here it is, Venice style. 

On the 1st day of Christmas, my true love gave to me

A gondola on the Grand Canal.

On the 2nd day of Christmas, my true love gave to me

Two Murano chandeliers

and a gondola on the Grand Canal.

On the 3rd day of Christmas, my true love gave to me

Three Carnevale masks

Two Murano chandeliers

and a gondola on the Grand Canal.

On the 4th day of Christmas, my true love gave to me

Four Vaporettos

Three Carnevale masks

Two Murano chandeliers

and a gondola on the Grand Canal.

On the 5th day of Christmas, my true love gave to me

Five more brid-ges

Four Vaporettos

Three Carnevale masks

Two Murano chandeliers

and a gondola on the Grand Canal.

On the 6th day of Christmas, my true love gave to me

Six Spritzes spritzing

Five more brid-ges
Four Vaporettos
Three Carnevale masks
Two Murano chandeliers
and a gondola on the Grand Canal.

On the 7th day of Christmas, my true love gave to me
Seven gondoliers-a-rowing
Six Spritzes spritzing
Five more brid-ges
Four Vaporettos
Three Carnevale masks
Two Murano chandeliers
and a gondola on the Grand Canal.

On the 8th day of Christmas, my true love gave to me
Eight Panettone from Colussi
Seven gondoliers-a-rowing
Six Spritzes spritzing
Five more brid-ges
Four Vaporettos
Three Carnevale masks
Two Murano chandeliers
and a gondola on the Grand Canal.

On the 9th day of Christmas, my true love gave to me
Nine Vivaldi concerts
Eight Panettone from Colussi
Seven gondoliers-a-rowing
Six Spritzes spritzing
Five more brid-ges
Four Vaporettos
Three Carnevale masks
Two Murano chandeliers
and a gondola on the Grand Canal.

On the 10th day of Christmas, my true love gave to me
Ten Canals-a-rising
Nine Vivaldi concerts
Eight Panettone from Colussi
Seven gondoliers-a-rowing
Six Spritzes spritzing
Five more brid-ges
Four Vaporettos
Three Carnevale masks
Two Murano chandeliers
and a gondola on the Grand Canal.

On the 11 th  day of Christmas, my true love gave to me
Eleven Fritelle frying
Ten Canals-a-rising
Nine Vivaldi concerts
Eight Panettone from Colussi
Seven gondoliers-a-rowing
Six Spritzes spritzing
Five more brid-ges
Four Vaporettos
Three Carnevale masks
Two Murano chandeliers
and a gondola on the Grand Canal.

On the 12th day of Christmas, my true love gave to me
Twelve cicchetti platters
Eleven Fritelle frying
Ten Canals-a-rising
Nine Vivaldi concerts
Eight Panettone from Colussi
Seven gondoliers-a-rowing
Six Spritzes spritzing
Five more brid-ges
Four Vaporettos
Three Carnevale masks
Two Murano chandeliers
and a gondola on the Grand Canal.

(Venice version words by Karen Henderson, 2016)

Make sure you practice so you are all ready for Christmas caroling at the end of the month!

See you all tomorrow when we'll open door #2 together. 

Ciao!

As an extra little bonus, I'll post the link to each day's advent calendar from my 2014 blog so you can get a double whammy. I promise, all of this year's posts will be different from those. Enjoy!
2014 Day 1 Countdown to Christmas post

Celebrating the Festa de San Martino

Today is the Festa di San Martino - St. Martin's Day. In Venice this festa is a big, big deal, and over the years it has become one of my favorite celebrations every November.  I am very fortunate that I live not far from Campo San Martino and the Chiesa di San Martino, and get a constant reminder of this saint whenever I'm passing by.

St. Martin's story goes something like this: In the 4th century, Saint Martin met a starving, freezing beggar at the gates of the city of Amiens. He cut his cloak in two with his sword and gave half to the man. For that reason, Martin is a saint associated with the poor. It is also said that at the moment he tore his cloak, the sun came out and that is why an Indian summer here is known as an estate di san Martino.The 11th November is the festa of this favorite saint and traditionally the day when the novello [new] wine is opened.

San Martino bas relief on the wall of the Church of San Martino, Castello

Every November 11 the children of Venice re-enact St. Martin by dressing up in red cloaks and "Burger King" style crowns, banging on their mother's pots and pans while parading through their neighborhoods. Stops are made at the local shops canvassing for goodies. Sort of like Halloween but everyone dresses the same. 

San Martino cookies line the windows of every bakery in town starting a couple of weeks before the holiday. How could you not love San Martino day, when you knew there would be some fabulous cookie waiting for you at home? 

Have you picked the one going home with you this year? 

I noticed my local hardware store was selling cookie molds for every size San Martino day horse cookie you could imagine, from a grand one over a foot tall to very tiny individual ones. Perfect if you love making cookies. 

Should you find yourself in the neighborhood of Campo San Martino this weekend, here's the list of activities going on during the festa. Tomorrow between 4pm-8:30 there will be food and wine served in the campo. Look for me there!

Happy Festa de San Martino!