We've moved from Baltimore, Maryland USA to Venice, Italy in pursuit of living our dream!



Showing posts with label #livinginVenice. Show all posts
Showing posts with label #livinginVenice. Show all posts

Friday, December 9, 2016

Countdown to Christmas 2016, Venice Style - Day 9

Advent Calendar for Day #9 of the Countdown to Christmas 2016, Venice Style collection


Ciao, tutti! 

This just might be my favorite Advent calendar this year. I've been thinking about what I might put in each of those drawers. Don't laugh, but I'd put Hersey's kisses in them, the same number in each box as the number on it. So, 1 kiss for Dec 1, 2 for Dec 2 and so on. December 24 would be like a winning the lottery- especially since we cannot find Hersey's kisses over here. Having them would be such a treat! Any thoughts on what you'd load those drawers with? 

Today I'm taking you to one of my all time favorite shops in Venice, to meet a very special artisan. This is one of the very first places I visited on my first trip to Venice, I returned every year, and now I pop in several times a week. Ca Del Sole mask shop is just a few minutes from St. Mark's square, on Fondamenta Osmarin in the district of Castello. 


At the front door of Ca del Sole, one of Venice's most famous mask shops


Hamid Bandar, owner and mask maker at Ca Del Sole since 1986

Meet the man behind the masks, Hamid Bandar.  Hamid opened his shop in 1986 and was one of the first artisans to create a revival of the traditional Venetian mask. I caught Hamid mid-lecture in his workshop the other day, doing something he loves - sharing the story of Venetian masks.

Scary collection of plague doctor masks at Ca Del Sole


Inside his shop you'll find a wide assortment of masks, ranging from the Plague Doctor to fancy, elegant creations perfect for a Las Vegas showgirl. All individually made from paper mache and decorated with gorgeous accessories such as beads, gold leaf and feathers. 

Vast array of handmade masks at Ca Del Sole

Exquisitely decorated masks at Ca Del Sole

Doges hat and masks at Ca Del Sole

Each mask is made of paper mache lining a plaster mold of a face at Ca Del Sole

A handmade Venetian mask is a work of art which takes days to construct from start to finish, beginning with strips of blue paper mache and glue in the plaster mold. Recreating the traditional masks worn in Venice is a labor of love for Hamid and his assistants. 

Handmade Carnevale costumes available for rent at Ca Del Sole

Ca del Sole not only sells Venetian masks, but also rents handmade costumes for Carnevale masquerade balls. 

Hope you will put Hamid's shop on your list of Must-finds next time you are visiting Venice. It's definitely one of Venice's gems. 


You can visit Ca del Sole at Castello, 4964, Fondamenta Osmarin
www. cadelsolemascherevenezia.com



Here's the link to the Countdown to Christmas 2014 post Just click here!

Today's Advent calendar thanks to imaginifnz.blogspot.co.nz



Celebrating the Festa della Madonna della Salute in Venice

             La Salute church




Ciao tutti! 

In going through recent photos I discovered I'd neglected to make a post about one of Venice's biggest festa's, the Festa della Madonna della Salute. Other cities hold festivals to celebrate the wine harvest, or mushrooms, or garlic. Venice holds festivals to remember the black plague. Every year in July we have the Festa del Redentore to commemorate the Plague of 1574, and in November we celebrate the end of the plague of 1630.  

During each of these plagues, Venetians prayed to be spared from death and destruction. To keep their promise to God when the plagues ended, they built a church. In 1630 the called on the Madonna directly to end the plague, and their thanks resulted in the marvelous church of Madonna della Salute, in Dorsoduro. 

Every year, on November 21,  citizens make a pilgrimage to the church in order to give thanks to the Madonna for her intervention on Venice's behalf, and to pray for the health of their families. In the old days, people crossed a makeshift bridge across the Grand Canal made of boats tied together, to make their way into the church for mass, led by the Doge. Today, the city constructs a temporary votive pontoon bridge across the canal. 

Festa della Salute is huge. People still make a mass pilgrimage, flooding the streets and over the pontoon bridge to buy candles, attend mass, and afterwards, buy goodies. It's an annual tradition that is absolutely essential to Venetian life. 

What most people don't know about the Festa della Madonna della Salute is that the festa actually begins one week before November 21. Always on the Saturday before, the rowing community of Venice rows a giant candle down entire length of the Grand Canal to the La Salute Church, where they are met by the priests who will then bless the boats and the rowers of Venice with a special benediction.



Rowers taking the candle to La Salute




Close up view of the large candle being rowed to La Salute

Pink Lionesses participating in the row to La Salute

Arrival of the candle

Delivering the candle to La Salute

Priests at La Salute giving the rowers the benediction

Priests on the steps of La Salute blessing the boats and rowers

Alze remi, the rowers honorary salute

 Alza Remi (raise the oars), an honorary salute given by the rowers. The young men and women in blue jackets are from the Francesco Morosini Naval Military Academy in Venice.

The votive bridge being constructed for La Salute

The pontoon bridge during construction a few days before November 21.


On November 21, the calle next to the church of La Salute is lined with vendors stalls selling all sorts of goodies- nutella crepes, candies, marzipan, cheese, roasted nuts, just to name a few. And there are balloons. Tons of balloons.  Take a stroll down the street with me, and I assure you, the temptation to stop and indulge will be strong. My weakness is always the cannoli booth!

Chestnuts roasting at La Salute festival

Big fat cool looking porchetta

roasted nuts at La Salute

donuts at La Salute

Candied apples at La Salute

Chocolate candies at La Salute
Arancini at La Salute

Cannoli at La Salute

Roasted corn on the cob for La Salute

Street view at La Salute

Either before or after you hit all the goodies, you will stop to purchase candles at one of the numerous candle vendors, then make your way into the church to have your candle lit. 
Candle vendors at La Salute


Candles lit inside La Salute

Decorated inside of the church La Salute for the festa 2016
The main altar at La Salute church dressed out in velvets specially made by Bevilacqua.

For more information about the church of La Salute, https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Basilica_di_Santa_Maria_della_Salute

Thursday, December 8, 2016

Countdown to Christmas 2016, Venice Style - Day 8

Recycled Toilet Paper Roll Christmas Advent Calendar:

Ciao, tutti!

Welcome back for day #8 of my Countdown to Christmas 2016, Venice Style.

Every time I write "Venice Style" for these posts, I hear the "Gangnam Style" song in my head. Sorry. Couldn't help myself. You are all doing the dance, aren't you? 

Today is a very important holiday in Italy, the Feast of the Immaculate Conception.  Banks, schools, government offices are all closed. In fact, most are making a four day weekend out of it. It's also the day most Italians put up their Christmas trees  and arrange  their  Presepe.  As of this very moment, our fake tree is out of the box, constructed and lights are on.  I have a feeling the rest of the process will get done tomorrow. But.. we're almost there! And on the right day too. 

So, are we ready to take a peek behind door #8? 

I decided to stay in Campo Santa Margherita again today. 

Say hello to my favorite fishmongers (peschivendolo in Italian) - Gianni, Paolo and Riccardo.  



Gianni, Paolo and Riccardo in Campo Santa Margherita

This family has been selling in one of the few areas of Venice where fish vendors were located for hundreds of years. Right in the campo. Every day, Tuesday through Saturday, they set up shop.  That's my salmon Riccardo is holding in the photo (eaten tonight for dinner and it was yummy). I love that they will prepare the fish any way I ask. They even peel and clean my shrimp! Who could ask for better service? 



Ricardo with rhombo
Riccardo holding up a huge flounder (rombo) for us.

With the number of Venice residents declining rapidly, we're happy to see our favorites still in business.  Should you be in the neighborhood, stop by to say hello. Better yet, if you are renting an apartment, be adventurous and buy some local fish to make for your diner! 

Here's the link to my Countdown to Christmas 2014 post for Day 8 Glass Ornaments!

I promise, tomorrow we're not going to be in Campo Santa Margherita again. I'll leave you guessing what I have up my sleeves for you, though!


Today's Advent calendar thanks to  The Crafty Blog stalker. Great use of old toilet paper rolls. Ingenious! 

A domani!

Wednesday, December 7, 2016

Countdown to Christmas 2016, Venice Style- Day 7

                                                            Stars. One of the great ideas for advent calendar:


Ciao tutti!

Once again, I have to begin with a huge "Grazie mille". The response to this series has been overwhelming, the blog has record page views this week. I love reading all of your comments, so please keep them coming.

And I love the advent calendar I chose for today. I only wish they had included a little footstool or ladder so this cutie pie could reach the very top pockets! Being short myself, I can empathize with her.

Are we ready to crack open door #7?  I know I am!

Today we're visiting a spot very dear to my heart, close to where we used to live over in the Santa Croce district. But we're stopping just 1 bridge short of Santa Croce, ending in Campo Santa Margherita instead.  If you are a regular reader of my blog you are well aware of my attachment to this campo. If not, then you will be shortly!

Campo Santa Margherita, the heartbeat of the Dorsoduro district, is home of one of our favorite places, Imagina Cafe.  I know, I have been featuring artisans of Venice on my advent calendar posts so far, and you are probably scratching your heads wondering why I'm mentioning a cafe today instead.  I promised I'd focus on people in this Advent Calendar instead of things, and I can't think of any better place to introduce you to some of our favorite people.

Remember that TV show Cheers? The place where everybody knows your name? Well, in Venice, Imagina Cafe is that place. You come in the front door and there is always a happy "Ciao" for you, and a smile. It's your home away from home, your second family.  And trust me, when you are a foreigner trying to make a life in a country far, far from home, you need that. These people have been our second family since the day we arrived in Venice, 9 years ago.  

Domenico and Ramona
Here's Dominico and Ramona


stefano and jacopo
and absent this morning while I was snapping photos were Stefano and Jacopo. (  recent photos courtesy of http://iaindeau.blogspot.it/)


IMagina cafe

If you want to get an up close and personal experience with the locals, this is the place to be. If you need a spot to duck away from a busy day full of Venice sightseeing, this is the place.  If you want one of THE best spots to people watch, grab a seat at one of the outdoor tables. If you want a drink and one of the BEST tramezzini (Venetian sandwich) in town, this is the spot.  

Their walls also host the work of local artists, so you're getting a little dose of culture as a bonus. (And you never know if there will be one of those local artists sitting at the next table- some famous, some not so much).

Oops...almost forgot....Imagina Cafe is home to some of the most decadent hot chocolate with Whipped cream. Must have. 


 And just say Karen sent you. 

Imagina Cafe, Rio Tera Canal, Dorsoduro 3126
http://www.imaginacafe.it/

The link to my Countdown to Christmas 2014 Day 7 blog, just click here












Sunday, December 4, 2016

Countdown to Christmas, Venice Style - Day 4

Victorian style advent calendar

Ciao tutti! 

Grazie mille to all of you for reading and keeping up with my Countdown so far.  Please leave comments here, I would love to know what your feedback is. 

I LOVE, LOVE, LOVE the calendar I selected for today. I'd be very tempted to construct one of those for myself. Might have to tuck that idea into a folder for next year. Just maybe.  I love the vintage look of it, love the gold here and there. Gives it a little bit of glitz. 

And speaking of glitz, that's exactly what's behind door #4 today.  Come along with me, I'm going to take you on a little field trip, so I can show you what's behind the door at Cannaregio, #5182. 


door bell Mario Berta Battiloro

We're visiting at the workshop of Mario Berta Battiloro, the last real producer of gold leaf left in Italy, and all of Europe for that matter. The Battiloro (literally gold beater) here is keeping the over 1,000 year old tradition of making gold leaf (and also silver and other minerals). The family craft began here in Venice in 1926, with this location opening in 1969. Today the whole operation is run by Marino Menegazzo, his wife (Mario Berta's daughter), their two daughters and 4 other staff. 

Battiloro sign



adjusting the gold foil
There is no machinery here. Every step is done exactly as it has for hundreds of years. Every bit of pounding of the gold until it is feather light and only microns thin is done completely by hand.  


Mallets for pounding gold leaf
 A series of heavy mallets are used to beat the gold, over and over and over again, until finally, Marino deems it perfect.



QA the gold leaf
It is a fascinating process to watch, especially because nothing is automated. The gold, silver and other types of leaf produced here have been used all over Venice, and around the world on building projects, works of art, and even edible gold and now cosmetic products.



For me, being able to watch the work here at Mario Berta Battiloro was indeed like taking a step back in time. It's not often you meet an entire family so dedicated to preserving their craft. There's a bit of icing on the cake as well if you visit the Battiloro, because #5182 Cannaregio is also the home of another famous Venetian, Tiziano Vecellio, also known as Titian, one of Italy's most famous painters of the 1400's.  Walking in Titian's house gave me goosebumps. Seriously. 


For more information see the website www.berta-battiloro.com.  
Visits to the workshop are by appointment, for a small admission fee.

As Venice's population dwindles, artisans are forced to close their shops. Those that are left are a dying breed, unfortunately for all of us. I hope you will seek out these special doors next time you are in Venice, and treat yourself to a bit of the "other" Venice, the real Venice. 


I haven't forgotten the bonus -Link to Day 4 -Countdown to Christmas 2014. It's Babbo Natale !! 


Today's advent calendar is  from 2gypsygirls.com
























Thursday, December 1, 2016

Countdown to Christmas - Venice Style, Day 1

Tree Advent Calendar | Stampin' Up! easy to cut boxes with the Silhouette Cameo and use up my Christmas patterned paper stash!:

Ciao tutti!

It's December 1 (well, it was about an hour ago still), and I decided at the last minute to do another round of my holiday advent calendars.  In 2014, I had great fun every day of December on my blog opening a new door each day, sharing something "Venetian" that reminded me of Christmas. 

This year I have something similar up my sleeves. I hope you'll flip open a new door with me every day as I countdown to Christmas.  I'll have a different photo of an advent calendar that peaks my fancy to share, as well. 

For December 1, I'm sharing my version of the 12 Days of Christmas with you. Remember that old favorite Christmas song?  Here it is, Venice style. 



On the 1st day of Christmas, my true love gave to me
A gondola on the Grand Canal.

On the 2nd day of Christmas, my true love gave to me
Two Murano chandeliers
and a gondola on the Grand Canal.

On the 3rd day of Christmas, my true love gave to me
Three Carnevale masks
Two Murano chandeliers
and a gondola on the Grand Canal.

On the 4th day of Christmas, my true love gave to me
Four Vaporettos
Three Carnevale masks
Two Murano chandeliers
and a gondola on the Grand Canal.

On the 5th day of Christmas, my true love gave to me
Five more brid-ges
Four Vaporettos
Three Carnevale masks
Two Murano chandeliers
and a gondola on the Grand Canal.

On the 6th day of Christmas, my true love gave to me
Six Spritzes spritzing
Five more brid-ges
Four Vaporettos
Three Carnevale masks
Two Murano chandeliers
and a gondola on the Grand Canal.

On the 7th day of Christmas, my true love gave to me
Seven gondoliers-a-rowing
Six Spritzes spritzing
Five more brid-ges
Four Vaporettos
Three Carnevale masks
Two Murano chandeliers
and a gondola on the Grand Canal.

On the 8th day of Christmas, my true love gave to me
Eight Panettone from Colussi
Seven gondoliers-a-rowing
Six Spritzes spritzing
Five more brid-ges
Four Vaporettos
Three Carnevale masks
Two Murano chandeliers
and a gondola on the Grand Canal.

On the 9th day of Christmas, my true love gave to me
Nine Vivaldi concerts
Eight Panettone from Colussi
Seven gondoliers-a-rowing
Six Spritzes spritzing
Five more brid-ges
Four Vaporettos
Three Carnevale masks
Two Murano chandeliers
and a gondola on the Grand Canal.

On the 10th day of Christmas, my true love gave to me
Ten Canals-a-rising
Nine Vivaldi concerts
Eight Panettone from Colussi
Seven gondoliers-a-rowing
Six Spritzes spritzing
Five more brid-ges
Four Vaporettos
Three Carnevale masks
Two Murano chandeliers
and a gondola on the Grand Canal.

On the 11 th  day of Christmas, my true love gave to me
Eleven Fritelle frying
Ten Canals-a-rising
Nine Vivaldi concerts
Eight Panettone from Colussi
Seven gondoliers-a-rowing
Six Spritzes spritzing
Five more brid-ges
Four Vaporettos
Three Carnevale masks
Two Murano chandeliers
and a gondola on the Grand Canal.

On the 12th day of Christmas, my true love gave to me
Twelve cicchetti platters
Eleven Fritelle frying
Ten Canals-a-rising
Nine Vivaldi concerts
Eight Panettone from Colussi
Seven gondoliers-a-rowing
Six Spritzes spritzing
Five more brid-ges
Four Vaporettos
Three Carnevale masks
Two Murano chandeliers
and a gondola on the Grand Canal.

(Venice version words by Karen Henderson, 2016)

Make sure you practice so you are all ready for Christmas caroling at the end of the month!

See you all tomorrow when we'll open door #2 together. 

Ciao!

As an extra little bonus, I'll post the link to each day's advent calendar from my 2014 blog so you can get a double whammy. I promise, all of this year's posts will be different from those. Enjoy!
2014 Day 1 Countdown to Christmas post

Thursday, November 10, 2016

Arnold- the Aftermath

Arnold and Mike
Arnold and Mike in Venice



It certainly has been an emotional week!  You already know the results of the Presidential Election in the US so I won't have to get into that topic.  While that was going on, we had the big "Arnold in Venice" reunion happening in full force, which on many levels was a much happier event, so I'll talk about that. 

As I'd mentioned in my previous post, we hadn't seen Arnold in 16 years. I was apprehensive for this Venice meet up, to say the least! The original idea was for Arnold to stay at our place, however he was also bringing his girlfriend/partner. Given our apartment most likely wouldn't provide the privacy they'd want for a romantic holiday in Venice, coupled with the fact he'd have a long haul from our place early in the morning to catch a shuttle to the airport, he decided to stay in a hotel. He chose something close to the train station, wouldn't you know it? Couldn't get any farther away from our apartment than that! So, on arrival day the plan was he would check in to his hotel in Cannaregio, hop on a vaporetto and meet us at the San Pietro vaporetto dock. From there we were going to walk, see Venice, and eat. 

He spotted me first as he came off the boat, I heard him exclaim loudly, "Karen!". Our eyes met. A huge smile broke out across his face. On mine too.  He grabbed me for two kisses on the cheek and a hug. We both just clung to each other, longer than the normal hug-time, so happy to be reconnecting. After finally untangling our arms, Arnold reached over and did the same with Mike. We all just gave each other a long examining look, beaming like silly kids. Then he introduced Sondra, his girlfriend, and the hugs began anew.  He looks the same as I remembered him, except there's a bit of grey hair now. 

Of course we had to get through the requisite "How are you?"s.  Once past that, Arnold wanted to know how in the world we ever got to Venice to live. Interesting question!  My response was "It all started with you."  I had to explain, because the last time we saw him was on our trip to Germany, the one that was a thank you gift for putting up with him for a summer.  He didn't know that we had followed that trip with numerous vacations to Italy, as we'd gotten out of touch for several years. Since moving to Venice we've heard from him more often. 

Throughout the short 2 day visit, there was lots of reminiscing. Mike and I were completely amazed at the little details Arnold recalled that we had forgotten, or never expected him to have memories of from so long ago. Little things like the name of Mike's dog (that Mike only had for a brief visitation )- long story- while Arnold was with us, or the strange old man Leroy, who did yard work for us.  I didn't even remember that at all!  He asked about all the people he'd met while with us in Baltimore - my daughters, our neighbors, Mike's law partner, the secretary who worked at Mike's office. The stories just flowed, as did the laughter, followed by tears of joy because the three of us just couldn't stop laughing. I felt so sorry for poor Sondra, and for the people around us at cafes and restaurants. 

I was curious what Arnold had thought about his  US experiences, if he had any fears about going to a foreign country to be with strangers for 3 months. He explained that he wasn't afraid. He was excited. And he knew it might be a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. When would he get an extended block of time to do something like that ever again? He described his expectation of staying with a "normal" American family, one that ate "Wonder Bread and fried chicken" (his words).   Poor guy!  I was sorry  he didn't get what he had wanted, but he just beamed and said "But I got so much more!  And you ate French bread! "

I could go on and on, relating details of the stories we shared but those are only special to us, so I won't. I didn't want to see him leave. I wanted him to stay for another 3 months! I'm still smiling today thinking about the last few days together.

Arnold and Sondra saw LOTS of Venice, all the must sees and much more of our favorite local places. We ate well, drank lots and shared moments we'll not forget. We all vowed to do this again, and not wait 16 years for it.  I was touched to know that Arnold's memories matched ours, that all three of us felt a special connection back then, and still today. That warmed my heart. Now we can add another special Venice experience to our collective memories. Can't ask for more than that.

Note- the hotel Arnold stayed at : Eurostar Residenza Cannaregio.  He and Sondra raved about it. They got some pretty fabulous rates, and the hotel even has a bar. Passing this tidbit on in case anyone is ever looking for a good Venice hotel recommendation. 


Sunday, November 6, 2016

The Return of Arnold

Not a day goes by that someone doesn't ask me to explain what prompted our move to Venice. My response is always that we'd vacationed here for several years, fell in love with the city, and decided life is too short to stay on the corporate hamster wheel we felt trapped on in the US. This slow life suited where we wanted to be for the remainder of our days, so we chose to jump off that wheel. And here we are.


Ah, Venice!
Ah, Venice!


However, truth be told, that explanation is the Readers Digest condensed version.  The real story involves a young 22 yr old German law student we met about 18 years ago.  So, for the first time ever, I'm exposing a bit more of our past, and the truth is being shared here with the entire blogosphere. (Heaven help me!)

Turn back the calendar to 1999......

My husband agreed to sponsor a 3-month internship for a German exchange student  at his law office near Baltimore, at the request of one of his clients. The client's mother's best friend's son (how's that for a mouth full) wanted to do his required internship somewhere in the United States, and Mike's client's mother put a little pressure on him to find something for this boy. Naturally, he asked his lawyer, Mike, who happens to be fluent in German, to help bail him out of a tough spot with his mother. You know all about mother's guilt trips. 

While there would be nothing this German student could do to assist with any legal matters during his stay, he could be put to use delivering documents to the court or miscellaneous tasks around the office. And, as this was to be funded by the German government as a required part of every law student's schooling, there would be no expense on Mike's part. Everyone agreed to the plan, and the deal was sealed. For the summer months of 1999, Arnold would be interning in the US. And all the German mothers were smiling.

What I haven't mentioned is the deal included Mike and I hosting this young man in our house for the first few days to help him get acclimated, arrange a short term apartment nearby and a rental car. Arnold, however, had other plans in mind, which he shared after his arrival.  You see, Arnold wanted to use the stipend he would be receiving for living expenses to travel all over the USA instead. He had his mini-bucket list prepared-Los Angeles, Boston, New York City, New Orleans, Chicago, Dallas, Miami.  The problem was he didn't have much in the way of funds other than his stipend, and that was needed to pay for an apartment and car. Arnold proposed that he extend his living with us beyond the few initial days instead of renting an apartment, and he could commute to work with Mike every day. Voila.  He could use the stipend money to travel while living rent free with us.  And, he really didn't expect to work very much, as that would interfere with his "Arnold Does America" grand tour plans. Such a plan!

Mike was all in favor of it. I, on the other hand, was less receptive, for two reasons. One, this was a total stranger staying in our home for 3 months, and I'm not immediately trusting of anyone. And two, perhaps even more of a showstopper might be that said Arnold was a moose. Seriously. I'm talking a big boy. A really big boy, who obviously consumed A LOT of food. I could not fathom what my grocery bill would be for the next 3 months. The only saving grace might be that he intended to be on the road traveling now and then. My counter proposal to Arnold was that he kick in a small amount each week for groceries. We struck a bargain.  Arnold was going to see the USA and Karen got some milk money. Win-Win. 

While I began the summer of 1999 with great trepidation, in actuality it turned out to be one of the best experiences of our lives. Arnold wasn't always a peach to live with, but who doesn't have their days? During the long summer evenings on the upper deck over dinners, wine, shared stories and lots of laughs, we forged lifelong friendships. I wouldn't have changed a thing. Little did I know then that EVERYTHING would change. Bigly (yes, that is a tongue-in-cheek borrow from You-Know-Who). 

About six months after Arnold returned to the motherland, a courier delivered an envelope to our front door addressed to Mike.  Inside the envelope, to our great surprise, was a voucher from a travel agent for round trip air for two and some additional dollars to be used for a trip to Germany-a thank you gift from that client who had instigated the whole Arnold internship, for all we had done for Arnold and for him. Karma, he said.  He knew Mike, of German ancestry, is a Beethoven fanatic who dreamed of visiting Bonn, the birthplace of the musical genius.  He was sending us there. 

I had never been to Europe before but had always dreamed of visiting Italy where my family is from, so naturally, I begged to split the trip between Germany and Italy. I was overruled, however, a compromise was struck.  We'd go to Germany, and then save money for a trip to Italy sometime in the near future. 

In March 2000 we did that Germany trip to not only Bonn but to numerous cities, including a couple of days with Arnold and his family. Upon our return home the Italy fund jar took up residence on our kitchen counter.  Promises kept, not long after our first Italian holiday began with a flight into Venice from JFK and our first (too short) visit in this magical city. 


 Everything really began with Arnold. If it weren't for him and our summer of 1999, we wouldn't have gone to Germany and I wouldn't have made that bargain for a subsequent trip to Italy. I know us.  Europe wasn't on our horizons at the time. We were not only mired in "this Old House" renovations but I was still making monthly payments to my divorce lawyer.  If we did take any vacations it was to the beach. Experiencing Europe for the first time adjusted our priority list dramatically, moving travel in general and Italy more specifically way up on that list.   As if this is any surprise, Venice stole both our hearts and our souls.  You know the rest of that story. 

 Bringing this back full circle, fast forward to tomorrow....

 Tomorrow morning, HE will be arriving for a couple of days. We haven't seen Arnold in 16 years!  I'm excited, anxious, and frankly over-the-moon to be having this very long overdue reunion, in Venice no less,  with the person who unbeknownst to him was a game changer in my life.  

And that's really how the Venice experience began. 







Sunday, August 14, 2016

What a difference a year makes!

Ciao, tutti!

I'm thinking I need to dedicate this blog to my Italian teacher, Francesca, who works with me tirelessly every week.  

One year ago, I had a conversation on the beach at Lido with the woman I have nicknamed La Contessa. Looking back on that conversation I am mighty embarrassed, because my ability to get a decent conversation out of my mouth was nearly non-existent. I was talking Italian baby talk!

Flash forward to this morning.  

My morning ritual on days when I get to the beach is to set up my chair, spend a few hours enjoying the sun and surf relaxing, then pack up to head home. On my way off the beach I stop for a coffee at the bar at our beach. 

Today, I reversed my routine, stopping first for that coffee.  I carried my cup to my usual table and discovered La Contessa and a group of friends were also having coffee at the next table. I hadn't been there in a few weeks due to a nasty cold, so hadn't seen La Contessa since the last visit. She introduced me to her friends, and we proceeded to get into a lively conversation about a variety of topics. 

Just thinking about the range of topics has me laughing still now, hours after having come back from the beach. La Contessa had recently read a book in Italian called A Brief History of America, or something like that, in which she learned about the settlement at Jamestown, and the war of 1812, and the Civil War. She commented that of all the American presidents, she likes Lincoln. So we talked about Lincoln. And Jamestown. Jamestown, of all things!







The Lido coffee bunch had an assortment of questions for me. Tops on the list, of course, were all things Trump. Seems I can not avoid that topic anywhere these days, although I would love to. I got asked about food in New Orleans, the weather in Seattle, and the mafia in New Jersey.  Cracks me up.

But what amazes me even more than the choice of topics is that I am holding my own in these conversations this year. Not bumbling, but actually getting  information shared, thoughts conveyed, opinions expressed.

Language-wise, it's a whole different year. Karen is happy.

 So, thanks Francesca, for tolerating me, pushing me, encouraging me and never giving up on me.







Sunday, July 3, 2016

Venice from inside the boat

Ciao, tutti!


I've very excited to share some of my latest adventures with you.  

Recently I received a GoPro camera as an early birthday gift from a group of fabulous friends so I could record some of my rowing experiences. 

Last week I strapped the camera to my head, got in the boat and went out for the first live test run. 

I filmed our entire exercise session, from getting into the boat to pulling it up out of the water.  The video clips are unedited.(It was my first attempt at this. Just getting them up into YouTube was a learning curve)  But I thought you might enjoy seeing Venice from my perspective in the dragon boat on last Wednesdays row. 

There are 6 clips- with each of the first 5 lasting 12 minutes and the last 5 minutes. Grab a paddle and come on along with me. Or, if you prefer, grab a glass of prosecco instead, and enjoy a bit of Venice with me. 



                                                                           Part 1


                                                                                    
Part 2


Part 3 



                                                                            Part 4


Part 5


                                                                              
                                                                        Part 6




Hope you enjoyed this as much as I've enjoyed sharing it with you.

P.S. If anyone has any GoPro tips or tricks, this novice would love to hear them.