We've moved from Baltimore, Maryland USA to Venice, Italy in pursuit of living our dream!



Showing posts with label #Dorsoduro. Show all posts
Showing posts with label #Dorsoduro. Show all posts

Friday, December 9, 2016

Celebrating the Festa della Madonna della Salute in Venice

             La Salute church




Ciao tutti! 

In going through recent photos I discovered I'd neglected to make a post about one of Venice's biggest festa's, the Festa della Madonna della Salute. Other cities hold festivals to celebrate the wine harvest, or mushrooms, or garlic. Venice holds festivals to remember the black plague. Every year in July we have the Festa del Redentore to commemorate the Plague of 1574, and in November we celebrate the end of the plague of 1630.  

During each of these plagues, Venetians prayed to be spared from death and destruction. To keep their promise to God when the plagues ended, they built a church. In 1630 the called on the Madonna directly to end the plague, and their thanks resulted in the marvelous church of Madonna della Salute, in Dorsoduro. 

Every year, on November 21,  citizens make a pilgrimage to the church in order to give thanks to the Madonna for her intervention on Venice's behalf, and to pray for the health of their families. In the old days, people crossed a makeshift bridge across the Grand Canal made of boats tied together, to make their way into the church for mass, led by the Doge. Today, the city constructs a temporary votive pontoon bridge across the canal. 

Festa della Salute is huge. People still make a mass pilgrimage, flooding the streets and over the pontoon bridge to buy candles, attend mass, and afterwards, buy goodies. It's an annual tradition that is absolutely essential to Venetian life. 

What most people don't know about the Festa della Madonna della Salute is that the festa actually begins one week before November 21. Always on the Saturday before, the rowing community of Venice rows a giant candle down entire length of the Grand Canal to the La Salute Church, where they are met by the priests who will then bless the boats and the rowers of Venice with a special benediction.



Rowers taking the candle to La Salute




Close up view of the large candle being rowed to La Salute

Pink Lionesses participating in the row to La Salute

Arrival of the candle

Delivering the candle to La Salute

Priests at La Salute giving the rowers the benediction

Priests on the steps of La Salute blessing the boats and rowers

Alze remi, the rowers honorary salute

 Alza Remi (raise the oars), an honorary salute given by the rowers. The young men and women in blue jackets are from the Francesco Morosini Naval Military Academy in Venice.

The votive bridge being constructed for La Salute

The pontoon bridge during construction a few days before November 21.


On November 21, the calle next to the church of La Salute is lined with vendors stalls selling all sorts of goodies- nutella crepes, candies, marzipan, cheese, roasted nuts, just to name a few. And there are balloons. Tons of balloons.  Take a stroll down the street with me, and I assure you, the temptation to stop and indulge will be strong. My weakness is always the cannoli booth!

Chestnuts roasting at La Salute festival

Big fat cool looking porchetta

roasted nuts at La Salute

donuts at La Salute

Candied apples at La Salute

Chocolate candies at La Salute
Arancini at La Salute

Cannoli at La Salute

Roasted corn on the cob for La Salute

Street view at La Salute

Either before or after you hit all the goodies, you will stop to purchase candles at one of the numerous candle vendors, then make your way into the church to have your candle lit. 
Candle vendors at La Salute


Candles lit inside La Salute

Decorated inside of the church La Salute for the festa 2016
The main altar at La Salute church dressed out in velvets specially made by Bevilacqua.

For more information about the church of La Salute, https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Basilica_di_Santa_Maria_della_Salute

Thursday, December 8, 2016

Countdown to Christmas 2016, Venice Style - Day 8

Recycled Toilet Paper Roll Christmas Advent Calendar:

Ciao, tutti!

Welcome back for day #8 of my Countdown to Christmas 2016, Venice Style.

Every time I write "Venice Style" for these posts, I hear the "Gangnam Style" song in my head. Sorry. Couldn't help myself. You are all doing the dance, aren't you? 

Today is a very important holiday in Italy, the Feast of the Immaculate Conception.  Banks, schools, government offices are all closed. In fact, most are making a four day weekend out of it. It's also the day most Italians put up their Christmas trees  and arrange  their  Presepe.  As of this very moment, our fake tree is out of the box, constructed and lights are on.  I have a feeling the rest of the process will get done tomorrow. But.. we're almost there! And on the right day too. 

So, are we ready to take a peek behind door #8? 

I decided to stay in Campo Santa Margherita again today. 

Say hello to my favorite fishmongers (peschivendolo in Italian) - Gianni, Paolo and Riccardo.  



Gianni, Paolo and Riccardo in Campo Santa Margherita

This family has been selling in one of the few areas of Venice where fish vendors were located for hundreds of years. Right in the campo. Every day, Tuesday through Saturday, they set up shop.  That's my salmon Riccardo is holding in the photo (eaten tonight for dinner and it was yummy). I love that they will prepare the fish any way I ask. They even peel and clean my shrimp! Who could ask for better service? 



Ricardo with rhombo
Riccardo holding up a huge flounder (rombo) for us.

With the number of Venice residents declining rapidly, we're happy to see our favorites still in business.  Should you be in the neighborhood, stop by to say hello. Better yet, if you are renting an apartment, be adventurous and buy some local fish to make for your diner! 

Here's the link to my Countdown to Christmas 2014 post for Day 8 Glass Ornaments!

I promise, tomorrow we're not going to be in Campo Santa Margherita again. I'll leave you guessing what I have up my sleeves for you, though!


Today's Advent calendar thanks to  The Crafty Blog stalker. Great use of old toilet paper rolls. Ingenious! 

A domani!

Wednesday, December 7, 2016

Countdown to Christmas 2016, Venice Style- Day 7

                                                            Stars. One of the great ideas for advent calendar:


Ciao tutti!

Once again, I have to begin with a huge "Grazie mille". The response to this series has been overwhelming, the blog has record page views this week. I love reading all of your comments, so please keep them coming.

And I love the advent calendar I chose for today. I only wish they had included a little footstool or ladder so this cutie pie could reach the very top pockets! Being short myself, I can empathize with her.

Are we ready to crack open door #7?  I know I am!

Today we're visiting a spot very dear to my heart, close to where we used to live over in the Santa Croce district. But we're stopping just 1 bridge short of Santa Croce, ending in Campo Santa Margherita instead.  If you are a regular reader of my blog you are well aware of my attachment to this campo. If not, then you will be shortly!

Campo Santa Margherita, the heartbeat of the Dorsoduro district, is home of one of our favorite places, Imagina Cafe.  I know, I have been featuring artisans of Venice on my advent calendar posts so far, and you are probably scratching your heads wondering why I'm mentioning a cafe today instead.  I promised I'd focus on people in this Advent Calendar instead of things, and I can't think of any better place to introduce you to some of our favorite people.

Remember that TV show Cheers? The place where everybody knows your name? Well, in Venice, Imagina Cafe is that place. You come in the front door and there is always a happy "Ciao" for you, and a smile. It's your home away from home, your second family.  And trust me, when you are a foreigner trying to make a life in a country far, far from home, you need that. These people have been our second family since the day we arrived in Venice, 9 years ago.  

Domenico and Ramona
Here's Dominico and Ramona


stefano and jacopo
and absent this morning while I was snapping photos were Stefano and Jacopo. (  recent photos courtesy of http://iaindeau.blogspot.it/)


IMagina cafe

If you want to get an up close and personal experience with the locals, this is the place to be. If you need a spot to duck away from a busy day full of Venice sightseeing, this is the place.  If you want one of THE best spots to people watch, grab a seat at one of the outdoor tables. If you want a drink and one of the BEST tramezzini (Venetian sandwich) in town, this is the spot.  

Their walls also host the work of local artists, so you're getting a little dose of culture as a bonus. (And you never know if there will be one of those local artists sitting at the next table- some famous, some not so much).

Oops...almost forgot....Imagina Cafe is home to some of the most decadent hot chocolate with Whipped cream. Must have. 


 And just say Karen sent you. 

Imagina Cafe, Rio Tera Canal, Dorsoduro 3126
http://www.imaginacafe.it/

The link to my Countdown to Christmas 2014 Day 7 blog, just click here