We've moved from Baltimore, Maryland USA to Venice, Italy in pursuit of living our dream!



Saturday, December 6, 2014

Countdown to Christmas - Italian style! December 6


photo courtesy www.remodelaholic.com

Hope you are excited for Day 6 (sei) of Karen's Countdown to Christmas!

Today's goodie is Cioccolata calda con panna- Hot Chocolate with whipped cream.

                      

December is the perfect time to endulge yourself in a cioccolata calda, with or without the panna (whipped cream).  Many caffès and bars around Venice serve this decadent treat. I have my favorites, of course, a few of which I will happily share with you here.

The photo above is at Nico's on the Zattere. Well known for gelato, ice cream and their signature take-away gianduiotto, it's the local's go-to spot for delicious thick, dark, rich hot chocolate.

Another of my personal favorite spots for cioccolata is Immagina Caffè, in Dorsoduro on Rio Terra Canal. Delicious served with a huge mound of fresh whipped cream, this one is hard to beat.

Caffè Florian, in St. Mark's Square, is world famous for being the first caffè to serve coffee in Europe since it opened in 1720.  Cioccolata calda here at Florians is an event, up there with having high tea at a swanky tea room in London. Florians has taken hot chocolate to another level with their unique drink named after none other than the legendary Giacomo Cassanova, made of hot chocolate, mint cream and chocolate shavings. Yes, this is almost indecent. But sometimes necessary.


                                                                       photo courtesy Caffè Florian, Venice


I have a difficult time deciding which between two St. Mark's caffès, Florian or Quadri, has the richer cup of hot chocolate. Both serve a pitcher of hot water on the side to help dilute the thick, almost pudding consistency of their delicacies. I think I won't choose at all, I'll just recommend them both, and let you make up your minds. Both are worthy of a stop next time you are in Venice. So do try them, and let me know which is YOUR favorite.


My most recent cioccolata calda con panna was Friday late afternoon, at Nico's. That's when I took the photo above.   I'd been thinking about hot chocolate for a few days, ever since I heard that the week before a few of my fellow Pink Lionesses stopped in at Nico's when rowing was cancelled that day. I'd been under the weather with a bit of a cold, so I was not planning to row on such a cold wet day, but was sorely disappointed I'd missed out on the chocolate.  This past Friday, our normal rowing day, was also cancelled early in the day because our helmsman was not available in the afternoon. Knowing that we would not be gatheing at the boat house that afternoon,  I sent a message to several of the Lionesses suggesting that we meet up for cioccolata instead.

The Lioneesses got right on it, sending messages and making phone calls to the rest of the group, and before you know it, the whole thing was organized. It was gloomy all day on Friday, with rain on and off. It's been raining for days and days here, I was happy for an excuse to get out of the house. Seven of us spent a hilarious two hours drinking cioccolata calda - and spritzes!

If you have read my blog, you know the Pink Lionesses "adopted" me in the beginning of springtime. None of these women speak any English, in fact, they speak only Venetian dialect when they are together. I am studying Italian, have been for several years. I understand very well, but don't speak fluently yet. But I don't understand a lick of Venetian. When we are together, I work really hard at trying to figure out what they heck they are talking about.

My ability to speak Italian has improved over the last 5-6 months so much so that I can manage to hold my own in a conversation now. On Friday at Nico's, as usual, the conversation was flying fast and furious around the tables, mostly in Venetian, of course. At one point, one of them asked me if my name, Karen, is a short cut for some other name in America, like maybe Kathryn. They reminded me that Karen just doesn't exist in Italian. Yes, oh yes, by now I am very well aware of that. They wanted to know why my Italian mother wouldn't have named me something Italian. From that point they veered off to naming some names they knew in Italian that were similar to American names, laughing over the Italian Mai col, which is like Michael. And then, the Lioness sitting next to me says, "I like that name Mav-e-rick-a. You know that one? " Yes, I do know that one.  She asks around the table, no one else knows it, so she tries to describe to them where she knows the name from. It's from a movie, with a famous actor, the one who has great hair, she tells them. She remembers the actor's name after a second or two- it's Tom-a Cruise-a!   I couldn't help myself, I had to explain that Maverick from the movie Top Gun isn't the real name of a person, it's a nickname. She thought it was his actual first name.  No, not a first name.  She asks, not a cognome (last name) either?  No, it's a nickname. Oh, sottonome!

The cioccolata calda at Nico's the other day will be one of my favorite stories, I'm sure. Before this year, I thought my life here in Italy was going pretty well. I'd tackled all the tough things, life was progressing nicely. But in Venice, unlike other parts of Italy, it isn't easy for a foreigner to make friends. Real friends. It works if you are here because you are married to an Italian. In that case, you are surrounded by family, and friends of the family. But if you don't have those connections, in Venice, it isn't easy to get beyond what I call the "imaginary line".  I'm over that line now, thanks to being a Pink Lioness. I'm having experiences beyond what I could have ever hoped for. Even having cioccolata calda with six Venetian friends on a wet, gloomy Friday afternoon.

And that's my cioccolata story for today.

                            Buon Natale! 






Friday, December 5, 2014

Countdown to Christmas - Italian Style! December 5

        
                                           photo courtesy whipperberry.com


 We're at Day 5 (cinque) already!

When we slide open that little drawer today, we find ......Christmas carols!

Canzone natalizia or canzone di Natale are both appropriate ways to say Christmas carols in Italian. When I was growing up, we listened to Christmas songs sung by Dean Martin, Frank Sinatra, Perry Como, and of course, Bing Crosby. Three out of four of that illustrious bunch of singers are Italian/Americans, so not too bad!

When I moved to Venice, I was surprised that the majority of Christmas music you hear is all American or English carols, either translated into Italian or just sung in English. At my house, it isn't Christmas if Christmas music isn't playing all the days of the month of December.  I still love to listen to my old favorites by Deano, Frank , Perry and Bing, but I've added some other special ones to my collection- some Italian ones.

My latest favorite is any and all Christmas songs sung by Andrea Bocelli. Here is a clip of  him singing Italy's most famous Christmas carol, Tu Scendi Dalle Stelle (You come down from the Stars)



See below for lyrics in both Italian and English (from Wikipedia)

Over the last few years, I've become a huge fan of a local Venetian musical group. They have three Christmas CD's out now, the latest just released a few weeks ago. All their music is sung in the Venetian dialect. I thought it would be fun to include a video clip of one of their Christmas songs. Here's Ska-J performing   "Mi e Ti a Nadal "  or  "You and Me at Christmas".  (Nadal is Natale in Venetian). Enjoy!


                                                                Buon Natale!

Lyrics to Tu Scendi dalle stelle:

Tu scendi dalle stelle,
O Re del Cielo,
e vieni in una grotta,
al freddo al gelo.
O Bambino mio Divino
Io ti vedo qui a tremar,
O Dio Beato
Ahi, quanto ti costò
l'avermi amato!

A te, che sei del mondo
il Creatore,
mancano panni e fuoco;
O mio Signore!
Caro eletto Pargoletto,
Quanto questa povertà
più mi innamora!
Giacché ti fece amor
povero ancora!
From starry skies descending,
Thou comest, glorious King,
A manger low Thy bed,
In winter's icy sting;
O my dearest Child most holy,
Shudd'ring, trembling in the cold!
Great God, Thou lovest me!
What suff'ring Thou didst bear,
That I near Thee might be!

Thou art the world's Creator,
God's own and true Word,
Yet here no robe, no fire
For Thee, Divine Lord.
Dearest, fairest, sweetest Infant,
Dire this state of poverty.
The more I care for Thee,
Since Thou, o Love Divine,
Will'st now so poor to be.





Thursday, December 4, 2014

Countdown to Christmas (Natale) - Italian Style! December 4

                 Countdown to Christmas - Advent Calendar
                                   photo courtesy www.hgtv.com


Behind the door of my advent calendar for  Day 4 (quattro) we find none other than Babbo Natale!

As you probably can guess, Babbo Natale is the Italian name for Santa Claus.  

Babbo is a very commonly used term of endearment in many Italian homes for Dad, or Papa.  In this particular case, it's like saying "Father Christmas", but in a sweet way.

Normally, as you might expect, Babbo Natale would enter through the chimney. However, in the city of Venice, even though there are chimneys on houses, no chimneys are ever used, they haven't been used in hundreds of years. So, Babbo Natale needs another way to get in to deliver gifts on December 25.  Can you guess how he does it?  That's right, he climbs up the balcony and sneaks in a window or door. Even a blocked up chimney doesn't stop Babbo Natale!

All over Venice, we're beginning to see Babbo Natale making his appearance.








Buon Natale!

Wednesday, December 3, 2014

Countdown to Christmas (Natale)- Italian Style! - December 3

                              Christmas Flag Pennant Advent Calendar
                                                      photo courtesy www.tipjunkie.com


The weather here in Venice today was brutal! Fierce wind and pounding rain almost non-stop. All day I kept thinking how much I would have liked a nice roaring fire to snuggle up in front of, some Christmas carols playing, and the smell of freshly baked Christmas cookies filling the house.

As I searched for the photo of the advent calendar I wanted to use for today's post, the one I chose seemed to fit my mood perfectly. I love it. If I had a fireplace, I might be very tempted to create this one for myself!  I had lots of possible choices for what would be behind my little door for today on my Advent Calendar. I decided on this, with a great deal of influence from one of my favorite Christmas carols.  You know the one.... "Chestnuts roasting on an open fire, Jack Frost nipping at your nose. Yule tide carols being sung by a choir, and folks dressed up like eskimos..."



My pick for Door Number  3  (tre) is Roasted Chestnuts.  You find these during the holiday season all over Italy. In Rome, you'll find the vendors in Piazza Navona, and across the street from the Spanish Steps. In Venice, they are only in one location, along the Strada Nova in the Cannaregio district, between the Cannaregio canal and the San Marcuolo area.

The word for chestnuts in Italian is castagna, however this usually refers to the fresh chestnuts sold by  vegetable vendors in the fall.  Caldarroste or arrostita are the words more frequently used for roasted chestnuts, which are sold by caldarrostaio , the vendors who roast the chestnuts on the street.
On a really chilly day, I love standing in front of the chestnut cart just to warm up a bit while I'm waiting for the vendor to put my chestnuts in a paper cone or sack.  The smells are enticing, the taste heavenly.  It's just not Christmas in Italy without roasted chestnuts!   I highly recommend you give them a try, if you haven't already

Buon Natale!

Tuesday, December 2, 2014

Countdown to Christmas (Natale) - Italian style!- December 2

                      
                                                                 photo courtesy tamarascraftypapercreations.blogspot.com

Ready to open door number two (due) with me?

Today's treat is the Pandoro (or pan d'oro), literally  Golden Bread,  which originated in the city of Verona, and dates back to the 18th century.  The cake is a very yellow color because of all the egg yolks used in the batter, and is baked in a deep 8 pointed star-shaped pan.  After coming out of the oven, the cake is inverted on a plate, and dusted with confectioners sugar.  Many say this resembles the snow covered Italian Alps.


                                       
                                              photo courtesy votrepain.com





A decorative way to serve Pandoro is to divide the cake into  horizontal slices about 1 inch thick, and then stack the slices one on top of the other, rotating the points of the star slightly for each slice, so you end up with a tree-shaped structure.  I've seen Pandoro cut like this, and drizzled with chocolate from the top down, or with cream spread between the slices. I like it just plain, similar to a pound cake.

                                 
                                 photo courtesy blog.giallozafferano.it

When bakeries and grocery stores have stacks of Pandoro in the windows, you know it's the beginning of the holiday season in Italy.

If you are feeling ambitious, here's a link to Chef Mario Batali's Pandoro recipe.

Buon Natale!




Monday, December 1, 2014

Countdown to Christmas (Natale) - Italian Style! December 1


        
                                                          photo courtesy www.theidearoom.net


As soon as the end of November rolls around, I find myself out shopping for Advent calendars. I've been a sucker for the kind with the little doors you open up, the ones with piece of  chocolate behind each door. There was never a year my two girls didn't receive one of those on December 1. I love starting the holiday season in this way!

This year, I've decided to create my own Advent calendar here on the blog. Each day leading up to Christmas I will post something I enjoy about Christmas in Italy. It will be a bit like opening one of those doors with me each day. 

Behind door Number One (Uno)  - Panettone


                           

When I spot Panettone in the grocery stores and bakeries around town, I know it's the beginning of the holiday season.  Panettone, served all over Italy, is a traditional Christmas sweet treat. It's a cross between a bread and a cake, and is sold with just raisins in it, or with raisins and candied fruits.  My favorite is with the candied fruits, but I'm not fussy, I'll take it either way.  I particularly like using Panettone for making french toast. Yummm! Delicious.

Nowadays, you can find Panettone sold in the United States too.  If you have never tasted Panettone, I recommend you purchase one this holiday season, and enjoy yours along with me!

And if you really feel like getting in touch with your Italian mama side, here's a link to Chef Mario Batali's panettone recipe



Buon Natale!

Sunday, November 9, 2014

Wet, wet days in Venice

If you have been following Venice news this past week, you already know we've had our share of Acqua Alta (high water).  We had our first high water of the season, followed by the second, third, fourth, fifth, all in rapid succession. None of these were exceptionally high days, but high enough to throw a monkey wrench into your life for an hour or so each day.  And high enough for you to keep your boots handy by the door.

Because I've been talking so much about boots lately, and wearing mine so much, I thought a photo of them would be appropriate today.


If you need boots while in Venice, you should find Nadia's, at 2762B Dorsoduro, located just under the archway that leads from Campo San Barnaba to the Accademia Bridge. She sells an unbelievable assortment of boots (at very reasonable prices) as well as beautiful shoes, gloves, hats and bags. Mine came from Nadia's too.



What's app? What's that?

In the last 16 hours or so, I've become quite familiar with the image you see below.  It's the icon on my phone for the What's App app. Is it something you use also?



I am a brand new What's app user, I will confess.  About six months ago, a friend in England suggested I download it so we could stay in touch more often and not pay for phone calls. I didn't do it.  About two months ago, one of the Pink Lionesses asked me if I was on What's App.  No. I'm not. I didn't give it another thought.  Truth be told, I communicate with most people regularly via Facebook.  

A few weeks ago after finally upgrading to a new phone, I was loading apps onto it when I decided, what the heck, and onto my phone went What's App.  It sat there, I didn't use it. Until last night. 

Just before dinner time I noticed my phone was vibrating, a notification of some sort.  I checked emails, checked regular text messages, checked Facebook. And then I saw it- What's App had a new message!  Little did I know that message would significantly impact my life over the next few hours. 

The message was from one of the Pink Lionesses announcing she'd created a What's App group for us, and was in the process of adding members.  One after the other in rapid-fire succession came greeting messages from Lioness after Lioness after Lioness.  Who knows the numbers of other Lionesses that should be added?  How is everyone doing?  What a great idea this is to keep in touch? Is everyone ready for tomorrow's festa?  Don't forget to bring your cake! What boat are you getting on?  

For the next few hours there was a joyous interaction of Lionesses there in my own living room!  I could not resist reading each new one as it displayed. Some took me longer than others just to interpret them- I recognized they were writing in Venetian dialect, which is worlds apart from the Italian I am learning.  Not only that, several of the more technology savvy Lionesses were writing in Venetian text-ese, making  them even more complicated.  I need a translator.  Does "x" mean "per" or "che"?  

The night ended with a flurry of buona notte's and See you tomorrow's.  Finally all the vibrating of my phone came to a halt as bedtime approached.  I settled in for the night with a silly grin on my face, realizing the joy these unexpected little messages brought into my life.

This morning, around 8am just after the high water sirens went off ( yes, again), my phone began to vibrate.  I knew right away to check What's App.  And there they were- good morning messages, lots of happiness being spread around as we Lionesses prepare to head over to the Festa di Murano for a  day of celebration. 

My days may never be the same now that I belong to a What's App group.  

If you are on What's App, let me know so I can send you a Buona Notte or two! 

Friday, November 7, 2014

Venice Marathon 2014- from the finish line

We're in the midst of another morning of Acqua Alta here in Venice. It's been a tough few days, with lots of rain and high water. I've been soggy, cold and damp, and my boots have been getting a work out. Fortunately for Venice, the forecast of 135cm of water this morning was downgraded at the last minute to 115-120 cm.  We're all breathing a sigh of relief. But it's still damp.

To lift my spirits a little this morning, I thought I'd post a happier moment. On the morning of October 26, the sun was shining brightly as 7,000  runners from around the globe crossed the finish line of the 2014 Venice Marathon. In my earlier post about the marathon, I shared a photo of the ramps over bridges constructed specifically for the race.  Here is a great view of racers coming down the home stretch, running across a ramp.  In this photo they are just one bridge away from the finish, after running 42.19 km.



                       

The first runner to the finish line was Mamo Behailu of Ethiopia, in just 2 hours and 16 minutes. Unbelievable! The man runs like a gazelle.  Incredibly, just 2 minutes behind him came Giovanni Gualdi at 2:18 from Italy!

Mamo Bahailu

 Giovanni Gualdi



First woman across the finish line - Biruk Tilahun of Ethiopia. 2 hrs 40 min           
         
                                            
Runners were jubilant as they neared the last few paces.  The children of the runners would dash out onto the course to hold onto their mothers or fathers and run the last remaining steps along with them.  Some pulled out flags to wave over their heads, others ran with balloons flying from their backs. I even saw two dogs running with their people. This man in yellow below even stopped running right in front of me to lean down and give his dog a kiss.  Those of us lining the route were cheering, yelling, encouraging all we could.  A few poor runners had to be assisted across the finish they were hurting so badly.



 
                   

It was indeed a joyous day of accomplishment for all of the 7,000 runners.   I didn't even notice I had snapped the photo below until I got home and looked at it carefully.  I had to enlarge it to actually see the guy holding his hand up in victory, he was so far down the street from me when I snapped it. And, after looking at it very  very closely, I noticed I actually KNOW that ecstatic man.

I had watched and waited for a glimpse of my hairdresser, Simone, but didn't see him.  Finally, someone I thought might have been him went by, but I wasn't 100% positive. This was at about 4 hours 15 or 20 minutes into the race, and a fair number of runners were all at about the same pace-  so lots of runners coming by at the same time.  When I didn't spot Simone, I figured he had encountered problems with his ankle somewhere during the course. When I saw this photo, I'm not sure who was more overjoyed at his making it all the way to the end.   This photo sums up the jubilant spirits felt at the finish line that morning.




             

 Registrations for the 2015 Venice Marathon  on October 25, 2015 are already open.   Perhaps  next year I'll be snapping a photo of you!



The Gondola Maker - a book review

Today's post is something a little out of the ordinary for me, but nonetheless, a wonderful new experience for me.

Recently I received an email from Laura Fabiani of Italy Book Tours inviting me to read and review The Gondola Maker, by Laura Morelli.  This book was already on my current list of books to read; naturally I was happy to accept the offer.




                             

The book cover tempted me, like offering sweets to a child. 

The book synopsis sent along with the book offered more sumptuous enticements.  I've included it below for you to be tempted yourself:


From the author of Made in Italy comes a tale of artisanal tradition and family bonds set in one of the world's most magnificent settings: Renaissance Venice. 



When Luca Vianello, the heir to a renowned gondola-making enterprise, experiences an unexpected tragedy in the boatyard, he believes that his destiny lies elsewhere. Soon he finds himself drawn to restore an antique gondola with the dream of taking a girl for a ride. Lovers of historical fiction will appreciate the authentic details of gondola craftsmanship, along with an intimate first-person narrative set against the richly textured backdrop of 16th-century Venice.



IPPY Award for Best Adult Fiction E-book 
Finalist for the National Indie Excellence Award 
Finalist for the Eric Hoffer Award 
Shortlisted for the da Vinci Eye Prize 


From the moment I flipped open the front cover to the very last page, I was enthralled. I will be the first to admit I had my doubts initially. I'm a tough customer to please. Here was a historical fiction about Venice, and not only that, specifically about gondola and forcole (the oarlock)  making. As someone who knows and loves this city, and knows several  artisanal craftsmen personally,  I was curious to see how Morelli could possibly capture all that Venice is- her grandness, the magic, the mystery,the  romance, the very essence of her. Surprise, surprise. Laura Morelli not only does it, she does it masterfully. 

The plot is intriguing, the characters so perfectly written you feel as though you know them as you are reading, the setting true to this marvelous city.  You cannot help but read on. And when you get to the last lines, you find yourself wanting still more. For me, this is the test a book must pass. The Gondola Maker passes with flying colors.  

Happily, I was able to interview Laura Morelli briefly.I hope my questions, and Laura's responses, let you get to know the author a little better.







1.It's obvious you did your homework about Venice, and it's history. Did you spend time in Venice while you were writing ?  If so, how long?



I lived in northern Italy for four years and spent a lot of time in Venice. The inspiration for THE GONDOLA MAKER came as I was researching another book called MADE IN ITALY back in 2001-2002. I traveled all over Italy, from the Alps to the islands, talking with contemporary artisans who still practice centuries-old traditions like Murano glass, Florentine leather, Sicilian ceramics, Roman goldsmithing, and of course, Venetian gondolas. Over and over, the extraordinary people I interviewed told me how important it was to pass the torch of tradition on to the next generation. I began to wonder what would happen--especially centuries ago--if the successor were not able... or willing. The character of the gondola maker and his son began to take shape in my head. As I began to work on THE GONDOLA MAKER in earnest, it was an opportunity to take a deeper dive into the primary historical sources about the history of the gondola, the world of the guilds or arti, and the role and reputation of boatmen in Renaissance Venice.


2.  You mentioned the idea for the book was based on wondering what might have happened if someone chose not to carry on the family traditional work.  How did you decide to use the gondola makers, as opposed to say, cheese makers?


I grew up around boats and the ocean, so the idea of boatbuilding has always been very alive for me. And of course, the gondola is such a specific artisanal tradition and so closely linked with Venice as to be synonymous with the city itself. A family boatyard (or squero) seemed the natural setting for this story. Cheese makers would make another great tale, though!




3. Your other books are non-fiction. Had you been dreaming of writing fiction at some point? 


Yes, I have wanted to write a novel for as long as I have known how to write at all. I wanted to pursue my passion and my career in art history, but I always felt certain that writing fiction would work its way into my life at some point.




4. Do you have any authors that have influenced your work as a writer?


I enjoy reading other historical fiction authors, including Barbara Kingsolver, Abraham Verghese, Ken Follett, and Umberto Eco. I appreciate authors who are masters of sensory writing--the art of conveying sounds, sights, smells, tastes, and physical sensations through words. One of the best examples of sensory writing is Perfume by Patrick Suskind. It's one of my all-time favorite stories.




5. What book is on your nightstand currently?


Right now I'm reading Laurence Bergreen's account of Marco Polo's journey to the court of Kublai Khan in the thirteenth century (Marco Polo: From Venice to Xanadu). I've especially enjoyed reading about the unexpected predicaments in which the travelers found themselves. Surely major mishaps must have been guaranteed for anyone embarking on a long international journey during the Middle Ages.




6. Are you working on another writing project? 


Yes. Currently I'm working on a series of city and regional guides that lead travelers to the most authentic arts in each destination. The name of the series is LAURA MORELLI'S AUTHENTIC ARTS. Each destination includes a core handbook available in paperback and ebook formats, as well as an ebook-only companion that is a continually updated list of resources and authentic artisans. The first set of books is about Venice, and they will be out in early 2015. You can find out more about the series here: http://lauramorelli.com/laura-morellis-authentic-arts-series-coming-in-2015/. Once these guides are out, I'm returning to historical fiction. 

Grazie, Laura!

About the Author

Laura Morelli earned a Ph.D. in art history from Yale University, where she was a Bass Writing Fellow and an Andrew W. Mellon Doctoral Fellow. She has taught college art history in the U.S. and at Trinity College in Rome. She is the creator of the authentic guidebook series that includes Made in ItalyMade in France, and Made in the Southwest, published by Rizzoli. Laura is a frequent contributor to National Geographic Traveler and other national magazines and newspapers. A native of coastal Georgia, she is married and is busy raising four children. The Gondola Maker is her first work of fiction.
Website  ~  Facebook  ~  Twitter  ~  about.me


Where to buy the book:







Here is the list of other blogs included on the Blog Tour for The Gondola Maker, in case you wish to read other reviews of the book.

Nov 3 - Studentessa Matta - review / giveaway
Nov 3 - Il Mio Tesoro - review / giveaway
Nov 4 - Packabook - review
Nov 4 - Venice from Beyond the Bridge - review
Nov 5 - Monica Cesarato - review / giveaway
Nov 5 - Seductive Venice - review
Nov 6 - Food Lover's Odyssey - review / giveaway
Nov 7 - The Venice Experience - review / interview
Nov 8 - Hello World - review
Nov 9 - Orvieto or Bust - review
Nov 9 - Capturing Venice - review

The Gondola Maker deserves to be on your must read list. It's that good.