Secret Garden in Venice First Harvest!!

First crop of the season!!!  We picked- and immediately ate- these first two cherry tomatoes this evening. Delicious!!!

Looks like we'll have a decent crop of zucchini also. Not ready to pick just yet, we're going to let this one fatten up a bit.

And... our very first olive tree is going to have a nice crop also. We'll never have enough to press our own olive oil,but I think we definitely will be eating a few olives in early fall. Something  else for us to look forward to!

Happy Anniversary to Mike!

Five years ago today,  my husband Mike arrived at Marco Polo airport with 4 suitcases and our corgi Leopold ,about to embark on one heck of a ride - our new life in Venice, Italy.

Mike may have drawn the short straw, getting the task of coming over from Baltimore first to settle into our furnished rented apartment in Santa Croce. His list of "To-Do"s during the 10 days before I arrived with our other dog Sam was full of some pretty tough chores: get the apartment registered at the comune with the new landlords, apply for his Permesso di Soggiorno, and basically scope out the lay of the land in an area of Venice we were unfamiliar with.

By the time I arrived, Mike knew where the closest grocery stores were, where to buy dog food (a critical item), had met the shopkeepers in Campo Santa Margherita, and had even bought a candleabra for the dining room table. And he had tackled all those nasty bureaucratic items to boot.

He took on the move without one complaint, ever. He willingly gave up his career, his family, his friends, his car, everything he knew in life to move to Venice. Thankfully the wizard granted him courage and bravery, and Mike has demonstrated those every day of the last 5 years. He already had heart.

Over these 5 years Mike has had 3 exhibitions of his art, 2 here in Venice and one in San Remo. He's had 2 commissioned paintings and continues to sell both his oils and his photographs. His first novel is sold on Amazon, the second is in the process of seeking a publisher, and his third is currently in the works on his desk.  No, he hasn't been sitting idle!

Yesterday one of my friends sent me a message saying " Sounds like retirement is going well."  This isn't quite retirement. I'd say it's a "re-inventing".  We not only moved to a new country, we started a new business. We're learning the language, immersing ourselves in the culture, making new friends, exploring every nook and cranny in Venice, and  traveling to new places around the world.

We're happy. Really, really happy.  Most days we walk around with grins as big as a cheshire cat,  pinching ourselves in disbelief that we're here, even after 5 years. We traded in the roller coaster ride we were on for 2 vaporetto passes and the good life in this city- this incredible, grand, glorious city.

  Happy Anniversary, Mike!  Here's to another 5, plus 5, plus 5.......

Reflections on 2 years...

I get questions every day from people I meet --- Why did you do it? What's it been like? Do you regret moving? How could you give up your jobs? What do you miss most?? What was the biggest adjustment you had to face? Are the locals accepting you?? It's occurred to me that these are all great blog topics... so here goes..I'll be writing on these topics in upcoming blogs.

To start out, I'll summarize. Every single day in Italy, in Venice, has exceeded my wildest expectations. That kid in a candy shop feeling just has not worn off. Mike and I wondered what we would do when we faced the day the fantasy faded, but, it just hasn't. I don't expect it ever will. I'm one of those who has been bitten by the Venice bug, bitten badly. I am head over heels crazy about this place.

And it doesn't make alot of sense, when you get right down to analyzing it carefully. We gave up every convenience, every luxury we ever had to move to a place that is incredibly difficult to exist. Well, compared to Baltimore, this is not an easy place to acclimate to, nor it is an easy place to live an everyday existence. Let's face it, having to live life without a car is in itself one major change in my routine.

I could make a long list of the things we have had to do without. You'd laugh... the clothesdryer is tops on that list, and yes, tootsie rolls make the list too. Look forward to seeing " The List" in an upcoming blog. I have a much longer list of all the wonderful things I have been able to add to my life though, and those have become so much more important.

Looking back, I have to say definitively- the decision to move was worth it. I have no regrets. Zero. Ok, Ok. somedays I do long for a clothesdryer, and maybe someday I will have one again. Just not now. I have learned to live without one, and I manage just fine. I traded in a very ordinary life- full of stress from work that was beginning to cause major health problems and full of the trapings of living "the American dream". I would describe myself as just going through the motions of life Getting up each day, going to work, coming home, ... existing. Marking time.

What I traded for is an extraordinary life. I pinch myself every day, in disbelief that I am living in such a marvelous, incredible place, but even more so because we MADE it happen. We somehow, miraculously, found the guts to dream of what a better life for us would be, and to do everything we had to do to make that dream a reality. I traded a stress laden life, with over the top high blood pressure, to one that has just about zero stress. Instead of spending 10 hours a day in meetings where nothing gets accomplished (yes, that's Corporate America), I spend my hours walking in one of the most beautiful cities on the planet. No more office walls, no more meetings, no more horrible commutes for me.

The journey hasn't been easy, in fact there were some very trying days. Persistence has been my middle name for the last 2 years! Most of the difficult tasks are behind us, and we're beginning to really feel at home. Yes, home. It feels pretty good to be able to say that.
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Today marks 2 years in Venice.... due anni a Venezia!

That's right, two years ago today I arrived in Venice with 4 suitcases, a huge dog crate, and my dog Sam. Mike, who I hadn't seen in 10 days, was waiting right outside baggage claim at Marco Polo airport for us, and what a welcome sight he was! This wasn't the usual arrival for us, this was not a 3 or 4 week vacation. This was for forever, ....or so we hoped.

Looking back, I have no idea where these two years have flown by to. Every single day I get up still amazed that we are here to begin with, and still so enamored with this place.

We've accomplished all the big items that were necessary for our long term stay here by the end of the first year. It took that long. Way longer than we ever expected, but very thankfully behind us. Nothing worthwhile ever comes easy. I'll never forget that! We're now intimately familiar with the Questura in Marghera, and the Anagrafe office,and a few other offices at city hall. One would think that after having had to endure all of the hardships I've been through, all of the hoop-jumping I've done for things that seemed so simple yet became so difficult, that perhaps we would have been very willing to pack up those 4 suitcases and hightail it out of here. Oh hell no!!! All that crapola just made me that much more determined to see this through.

With the difficult stuff behind us, our goals are alittle bit simpler these days.... learn the language, make new friends.

Tonight we celebrate. Now we are really "living the dream" ---every single day.

Living the dream - and a big case of nerves !!!!

In just 2 days, at about this time I will be on a plane headed to Italy with my dog Sam. Finally!!! I have been a huge wreck since Mike left a week ago, not sure why. We've been apart before and I have not felt this anxious ever. Could be I have a long long list of "stuff" that has to get done and very little time. How did we leave so many little tasks undone, like the load of stuff to go to Goodwill thats stacked in the basement? Or picking up prescriptions at the pharmacy? Not to mention the things that got added to my list that I hadn't even planned on, like returning the cable box to the cable company!

I have no choice but to plow through the list, but I'm still feeling overwhelmed. My goal for tonight is to finish packing - well, I've only sort of started, so I can't accurately call this task "finish". More like "pack".. all of it. I have things pulled out that I want to take, folded even, but I am going to have to sort through and remove items. I have way too much. Hopefully I'll be able to come to grips with the right amount of stuff to take and just get it done. How many pairs of shoes are too many???

I'm not the only one having a bad week. Sam, my dog, has been terribly lonesome for Leopold (our other dog), I think. I can only imagine the thoughts running through his mind about where Leo might be. I believe he thinks Leo has escaped from the backyard, and that he must go search for him. I'm thinking that must be the case because Sam has snuck out past a gate three times this week. Two of those times he squeezed through a pretty small crack, the third time workers forgot to close a gate which allowed Sam to breeze right through. In every case, I have had to stop, get in the car and scour the neighborhood for him. After three episodes, I called the vet cause I am concerned about how he will manage on the flight on Thursday. The vet prescribed an anti-anxiety med for him. After all his escapes, I am the one needing his medication!

Blogging has slipped off my "must-do" list lately. I have big plans to resume once I arrive with daily blogs of everything we do as we acclimate to our new life. I can't wait for Thursday's flight, and Friday's arrival.

Living the dream- the reading of the utility meter ceremony

Utility bills in Italy must be a big deal. Yesterday before the owners of the apartment left, they conducted what Mike describes to me as the "Meter reading ceremony".

We had experienced something similar when we rented a farmhouse in Tuscany a few years ago, but Mike says yesterday was quite a bit more elaborate. It included an official looking folder, a fountain pen, and a few Italians--- one to read off the numbers, the other to record them, along with alot of verification of each number. Mike was describing this to me, and I was just so sorry I had missed it. He says it was quite formal. Clearly the apartment owners wanted no disputes ever about the utility bills, so this recording of the meter had to be witnessed by Mike. Each number was called out, repeated, then written down on a document in the folder. I really wish I had been there!!!!

Living the dream- first full day in Venice

I've had a few emails and a few phone calls from my guys in Italy during the day today. Mike is loving the apartment. With each call, he sounds happier and happier, so I couldn't be more pleased. We took a huge leap of faith on that apartment deal, doing the whole thing based on some photographs. But, as I have said more than once already, somebody up above has been with me on this whole adventure.

Mike has been reporting back to me, letting me know what is in the apartment just in case there are items that I will have to pack to bring with me. Yesterday he told me he couldn't find anything in the kitchen- no dishes, no pots, no glassware, no silverware. Oh well, we just laughed and said now he has a reason to go visit Ratti. Ratti is a wonderful shop full of housewares on Salizida San Lio, which was on our everyday route to the Rialto when we stayed over in Castello. Now we are on the other side of town! This would warrant a trip there for sure. But, good news, Mike found stuff in the kitchen this morning! He's having fun searching through all kinds of cupboards! He located the silverware in a drawer in the kitchen table. Odd place he thought. Well, maybe, but I think that might be an Italian standard. My mom is native born Italian, and I recall when I was growing up that our everyday silverware was stored in the kitchen table drawer too! I hadn't thought about that in ages, but it was a pleasant memory as Mike was telling me about his latest find!

Mike and Leopold have been out walking, getting familiar with the new neighborhood, and getting the dog used to a whole new place. Leo is a friendly little guy, and as expected, he's already been attracting friends. Human friends, and a few Italian dogs. They have found the nearest Punta , a grocery store chain , not too far away from us in Campo Santa Margherita. Funny, we've shopped in a Punta before, but this one has something we have not seen before-- you have to pay one Euro to use the shopping cart! Looks like we are in for lots of new things to get used to.

Living the dream - Mike and Leo arrived in Venice!

What a day Monday was!!! We got loaded into the car around 12:30 and headed to Dulles. I had expected alot of traffic, but we had none, we made great time. A curbside porter helped get all the stuff loaded up, and while they were doing that I got to take Leo for a little walk. We found the last bit of grass he'd see until he arrived in Italy the next morning. Since I couldnt have gotten beyond security, I left them there at the check in desk, wishing them both a safe trip, and I got back into the car for the ride back to Baltimore.

I was a nervous wreck, mostly worried about the dog and how he would do on the plane. Mike called me after he got through security so he could update me on how things were going. All the dog's paperwork was fine, they had no problems other than they wouldn't let his water bottle through. And we had worked for a whole week getting the dogs used to drinking from this bottle!!! Mike had to throw it away cause the airline wouldn't allow the drinking bottle. Oh well, at least I known not to bring that when I fly with my dog next week.

Right before take off Mike called again to let me know they had informed him Leo had been loaded onto the plane. We were both relieved knowing he was on the same plane, now headed for Frankfurt. I think MIke's next call came around 2am, my time. He had landed in Frankfurt and was waiting on the connecting flight. An hour later he called back again to let me know that Leo had been boarded onto the flight for Venice, and he was about to get on the plane himself. So far so good! I wasn't getting any sleep, but at least I was getting updates.

The next call came from Venice. Mike had collected his luggage, but had not gotten Leo yet. This was at least a good sign, cause we had done this flight through Frankfurt before and the luggage never made it to Italy. Just as we were on the phone talking, Leo's crate was delivered to Mike in the baggage area. No need to worry anymore , at least not about the flight. They both were safe and sound. Leo was fine, and Lufthansa did a wonderful job of handling him.

But we weren't out of the woods yet. They still had to get to the apartment. The last thing we had heard was that Nicola's father was going to meet them at the airport. And somehow, miraculously, they all hooked up at the Venice airport. They met Mike with a car, drove to Piazzale Roma, and loaded Leo and all the luggage onto a cargo boat for the trip to the apartment.

After a whole night of phone calls, the last one I got was about 7:00 am my time, with an update from Mike after getting settled into the apartment. He said it was exactly as it looked in all the pictures we had been sent. Exactly! We thought at least the owners would remove pictures off the walls, but they were still there. It didn't matter, at this point we were both so relieved to actually have one of us in Venice, in our own apartment.

Ok. Now half of the team is on the ground in Venice. Now I can stop worrying.. at least for a few days until I put my dog Sam in his crate for his journey to Italy.

Living the dream --- back to the Italian consulate

We have yet another visit to the Italian consulate scheduled for tomorrow morning. Wish us luck. This trip should be alittle bit different, and I'm hoping for a more positive outcome. What's different? A) we aren't going all the way to Philadelphia. After making a call to the local consulate office here in Baltimore last week, I was informed that we can drop off paperwork here instead. What a relief! B) We are applying for our Visas. All of the last trips have been related to dual citizenship paperwork. The consulate has now recommended that I take the citizenship application and documentation to Italy and handle that process over there. They tell me it will take much less time, probably only a few weeks. In light of that, we will need to have Visas, at least Mike will.

We are very hopeful that tomorrow will be a much less painful time at the Italian Consulate. Please say a few prayers for us.

Living the dream- apartment hunting in Venice

One of the big items on our list of issues to handle was finding a place to live in Venice. The last time we were there we spent a few days with realtors looking at available apartments. The first one was so small.. and nothing in the kitchen at all!!! We had read about having to provide your own kitchen appliances but it didn't fully sink in until we saw an example of this first hand. This was going to be quite a bit different from any of our experiences in America!



We had discussed a 3 month rental with Marco, the man we rent an apartment when we visit annually. This would give us a jumping off place when we move. We love the area of Castello so it would feel familar to us, making the inital transition smoother. As we got closer to actually moving, it occurred to us that perhaps we could find someplace for a full year that would take the dogs if we looked in advance from here.



I started using the internet to contact some realtors in Venice. Every one of them told me they had no properties that would accept pets. I don't know what possessed me, but one day I emailed a gentleman (Gianni) who had an apartment rental in Castello, wondering if he would possibly consider a longer term lease ( at least a year) and if he would allow our 2 dogs. Gianni emailed me back explaining he only rented by the week, but asked for more specifics about what we needed and he would ask around on our behalf.



It's been my experience during this whole process that the moment I verbalize- actually ask for what it is I need, amazing things happen. Inside of a week I had received emails from several friends of Gianni, all with apartments for rent long term, all who would happily take on our dogs. A few were really small, only one bedroom. We determined we had to have 2 bedrooms, and a decent size kitchen- we needed to be less crowed. Even though we planned to get rid of almost all our worldly possessions here, we still would need to not be on top of each other 24 hours a day.

After back and forth emails with a few of Gianni's friends, one came through with the ideal place. What a find... 3 bedrooms with a decent kitchen AND a private large garden on a canal!!! It isn't in the Castello area that we were hoping for, but it had more space than we had ever anticipated. The rent was also a bit more than we had budgeted for.

We emailed back and forth several times, she sent pictures of every angle imaginable. The apartment is not a palazzo, but we never planned on that. We sent our friend Marco to check it out in person, just to be sure. He thought it looked fine, not the area we want and not a glorious kitchen, cause he knows we both love to cook, but all was acceptable.

Contracts translated from Italian into English have finally reached us, and we are finalizing the deal as we speak!!! We are excited beyond belief....just can't wait. We look at the pictures on Google Earth at least once a day, checking our our new neighborhood. One more step in the process has been accomplished-- this one is a big one.

I don't know if words can even describe how incredible this journey is, or to ever express how grateful we are to each person we've met along the way who has contributed in some way with this fantastic adventure. This truly is "living the dream".