Tanti Auguri (Best wishes), Venice! 1594 years ago, on March 25, 421, Venice was founded.
The flag of Venice waves proudly with the winged lion, the symbol of Venice, in the center and six "ribbons" of fabric flying along side it, one ribbon representing each of the six districts (sestiere) of Venice.
One other little tidbit about Venice's founding- the first settlement was at Rialto, at Campo San Giacometto. It's said people chose this spot because of the higher banks here, and the name became "Rialto" for sort of short cut version of "Rivo Alto" or high banks.
Those two facts should help you out should you ever find yourself playing the Venice version of Trivial Pursuit.
Part Two of Venice's Carnevale kick off weekend is a grand boat parade starting at Dogana Point, just across from St. Mark's square, snaking all the way up through the Grand Canal, ending on Cannaregio Canal. The first weekend of Carnevale is always a celebration for and by the locals, called the Festa Veneziana, before the hordes of tourists flock the city for the over-the-top masquerade balls and lavish events that will begin next week.
If you are a Venice lover who keeps up with Venice events, you probably have already seen numerous photos and read blogs about yesterday's event, the Corteo Acqua (boat parade). I've blogged about this event in previous years as well. This year, the entire event was very different for me. I wasn't on the sideline snapping photos as the parade passed along the Grand Canal. I wasn't on onlooker. No. I was IN a boat, in that parade. My perspective was dramatically different this time around, for good reason.
Two years ago, as a spectator to this very same event, standing canal side in Cannaregio, I spotted the Pink Lionesses of Venice for the very first time. There they were, in a glorious dragon boat, dressed all in pink with feathered masks on their faces, rowing amidst all the other boats. I wished I could be rowing in that dragon boat with them. I didn't know anything about them, but they stood out, they were a bit different than all the other costumed rowers, and they were rowing a dragon boat instead of standing up rowing in typical Voga Veneto style. Long story short, I am now a member of the Pink Lionesses. Yesterday was my first time rowing in the Carnevale Corteo Acqua.
Preparations for the parade began a couple of weeks ago, as we Lionesses planned how we'd decorate the boat to reflect this year's Carnevale theme "La Festa piu geloso del mondo" or The world's most delicious festival. One of our members came up with an ingenious way to make large fruits, which she executed over the next few days. She made the fruit, and a couple of the rest of us were called on to some how attach the decorations to the boat, including yours truly.
This past friday afternoon, I spent a few hours arranging, and sewing, yes, sewing these paper mache fruits to a plastic grid cut in the shape of the prow of the boat. After all the fruit were sewed on, we then attached the grid to the boat. It all miraculously worked out; the boat was ready for the big event, and so were we.
She looks pretty good, doesn't she?
What most people don't realize when they line up to watch the Corteo is that we all start quite a bit earlier. Our boat was very carefully (hoping not to destroy the fruit) lifted by crane into the water. Then a few of us paddled over to the next canal where everyone else loaded up. Yesterday acqua alta (high water) struck just around the same time we needed to embark, which made loading up a bit more treacherous. Notice the water level in the next photo- it's even with the sidewalk.
Masks on, we were ready!
The Corteo started at Dogana Point, where all the participants were to gather. While we waited for everyone to assemble, we were treated to a concerto high above the Grand Canal. You can see the crane holding a grand piano and musician in the center of this photo below.
Part of the parade assembly process included checking-in with parade officials, who also threw bottles of water and sandwiches (tramezzini) into each boat for the rowers. And then we waited. And waited some more.
It's tradition that the giant pantegane (rat) leads the parade. Our boat was right next to the rat, as we waited for the signal to begin. There were some announcements made over a loud speaker by the parade official, everyone raised oars in a traditional tribute, and off we went!
There were more than a hundred boats yesterday, filled with local rowers in costume. As we rowed you could just feel the happiness and joy among all the rowers. Cheers were being called from boat to boat between rowers as they recognized friends. The crowds lining the Grand Canal waved and yelled to all of us. What a great feeling it was to be in the water, part of it all.
Spirits were soaring, despite the turn in the weather. It started out cold. The cold continued, only to worsen with the start of rain and hail. That didn't slow anyone down.
Passersby on vaporettos waved and snapped photos. The Accademia and Rialto bridges were lined with people all cheering us all on. I'd been in their spot in previous years. I have to tell you, it's better in the boat.
When we made the turn onto Cannaregio canal, there was an entirely different feel in the air. The excitement level had cranked up several notches. There were lots more people. Lots more cheering. It was an emotional scene for all of us in the boats, all of us proud and happy to be there.
Parade officials located at the Tre Arche bridge were announcing various boats as we made our way up the canal. Boats docked everywhere a spot was available, and the canal-side party began in earnest, right after the pantegane (big rat) released a rat belly full of balloons into the sky.
Restaurants, cafes, bars and pastry shops all over town donated food, beverages and sweets, distributed at booths lining both sides of Cannaregio Canal. Venetian dishes including sarde and saor, bigoli in salsa, pasta e fagioli, and the traditional Carnevale desserts frittelle and galani were available for all. Fortunately for all of us the weather had calmed down considerably by this time.
The one downfall to being in a boat is not being able to have my camera. I was able to snap a few photos with my camera here and there. Not quite the same. That's ok. I was happy to sacrifice some photos for the sheer joy of being able to row and be a part of this special celebration.
To give you a better view of the entire event, here's the official Carnevale You Tube video of yesterday's Corteo Acqua. See if you can spot me, I'm wearing pink!
The Grand Opening of Venice's 2015 Carnevale was just that- GRAND! Festa Veneziana sull'acqua, a spectacular display of sound, sight, and imagination kicked off the weekend's events designed for the local citizens to enjoy. Last night two shows were performed on the Cannaregio canal, at 6 and 8pm. Citizens lined the canal in anticipation and they were not disappointed.
Mike and I arrived a bit late at about 6:10pm. I have photos, but I was so far back in the crowd, they aren't decent. Luckily, this video posted on You Tube lets you get the full effect. Just watch and enjoy!
Doesn't this make you put Venice on your bucket list, if it wasn't already?
Yesterday, I was a little late arriving at the Bucintoro for our Wednesday afternoon rowing practice. As I was just about to the door, I could see that most of the Lionesses were already out on the street with oars in hand, getting ready to climb into the dragon boat, and they were all making a fuss, yelling to me "Karen, Karen, hurry up, hurry up!" (Note: YES, the lionesses ALL call me Karen!)
I ran upstairs, changed quickly, grabbed my paddle and life vest, and ran for the boat. I was nearly tackled by lionesses, all clamoring at me, all at the same time. They were all trying to tell me that we had a special guest rowing with us that afternoon, a fellow breast cancer survivor dragon boater from Philadelphia. The head of our group, Anna, wanted to make sure that I understood I would be the one rowing next to this woman, Lynne, and that I should translate for the rest of the group as we rowed. Oh, this should be a lot of fun, I thought. When all of them get speaking a mile a minute at the same time, I don't do so well with my Italian. I said a quick prayer to the patron saint of Italian language learners and hoped for the best!
While in the boat, Lynne explained to me that she and others from her Philadelphia group had been competing in dragon boat races in Ravenna during the previous week, and now she and her husband were wrapping up their vacation with a brief two day stay in Venice. On Tuesday afternoon, while taking a walk down the Zattere, they happened into the Bucintoro and noticed photos on the wall of the Pink Lionesses. Lynn asked someone at the clubhouse about the lionesses, and was directed to talk to Marissa, one of our lionesse who by happenstance was also there at the club at the same time. Marissa doesn't speak any English, and Lynne doesn't speak any Italian, but somehow they managed to communicate for about 30 minutes, during which time Marissa invited Lynne to show up on Wednesday to row with us.
What a happy coincidence this must have been for Lynne! Isn't it wonderful when worlds collide unexpectedly? The lionesses were ecstatic to be able to share some rowing time with a fellow cancer survivor. For Lynne, it might have been an opportunity of a lifetime. As we rowed the boat onto the Grand Canal, she was as awestruck by that moment as I am every time I get the chance to row on that canal. Something about it just takes your breath away.
While we rowed, Lynne bombarded me with questions about our group. She was particularly interested in our boat, commenting on how beautiful it was compared to the boat her group rows in back home, and also that this was the first time she had been in a boat with cushions on the seats. What a luxury! I agreed wholeheartedly! Those cushions are a godsend after you've been rowing for about an hour. Another first for her was to be seated in the boat while it was being lifted in a crane to go in and out of the water. Lynne thought we had some high tech methods over here! They normally push the boat into the river where they row.
Lynne is competing in the International Breast Cancer survivors regatta in Sarasota, Florida which will be held in October. One of our own lionesses, Tiziana, will be making her very first trip to the US to compete in that race with the Rome team. Lynne got a chance to connect with Tiziana during our row, both promising to meet up again in Florida.
At the end of each of our normal practices, the boat is lifted out of the water, and we all pitch in to wash and dry the boat in order to get all the salt water off of it before it gets stored in the boat house. Lynne was invited to join with this task. Her group never has to wash their boat off. While we were washing, the lionesses wanted to explain to Lynne what we were doing. In sort of mime fashion, they demonstrated hosing down the boat and using the sponges to soak up the water inside the boat. Lucia, one of the lionesses, asked me how to say that we were cleaning and drying the boat with sponges, in English. (Fyi, sponge, in Italian, is spugna) As I got the word "sponge" out of my mouth, Cristina, working next to me, started repeating what came out like "Spuuun-ge" "Spuuun-ge", making a very Italian sounding end to the word every time. We all had a little English pronunciation lesson right then and there, with everyone saying "Sponge" "Sponge" "Sponge", in between laughing and drying. Sort of a little like "Whistle while you work"... lioness style.
Lynne certainly had a unique Venetian experience Wednesday afternoon!
Recently, while eating at one of my new favorites on Via Garibaldi, I had a lovely little conversation with one of the owners. Towards the end of our chat, I introduced myself with "My name is Karen". He says "Nice to meet you, Carol." I wasn't surprised, that's a very common response here. No one can pronounce Karen. I repeated my name to him a second time, to which he replied, " Yes, Carolina, like my girlfriend's name." At that point I gave it up as a lost cause and went back to eating my meal.
Two days later, at the same little place, the same man greeted me with "Ciao, Carol." I just grinned and gave him a "ciao" back.
I routinely get the "Ciao, Carol" all over town. I suppose I should just be happy to be acknowledged. It's not their fault they can't pronounce Karen. It's all my mother's fault for not giving me an Italian name!
My mother, Giuliana (now isn't that a beautiful Italian name?) was born and raised in Italy. She moved to the US when she was 19 after marrying my father, who was an American soldier stationed in Naples during the end of WWII. When my mother had us kids, she named us American names so we would fit in. Charlotte, Karen, Denise and Charles could have been Carlotta, Camilla, Daniela and Carlo, but no, we had to have American names!
And so I suffer with most people not being able to say my name. I'd even answer to "Hey, you", I think.
PS. Mom- I really just want to fit in now! Is it ok with you if I change my name to Camilla, or Carmella, or Carolina?
Yesterday one of my Facebook friends made the comment "There's never a dull moment in the Henderson household!". Yesterday she was so right!
Sitting along the canal while enjoying a lovely lunch at Gam Gam restaurant in the Jewish Ghetto with friends from Baltimore who were visiting us in Venice, our friend Mike turned to me and said " Hey, you just got an owl!" Huh??? He handed me his phone to show me a photo. My husband Mike had just posted a photo on Facebook explaining he had rescued a baby bird . Sure enough, it was a baby owl. My husband then sent me a message telling me I had to go buy some beef baby food and a syringe so I could feed the owl. Before our conversation was over, I had already given our baby owl a name, Hemingway. Looks like I was in for a fun afternoon!
In the meantime, we'd heard from another friend who was kind enough to check out some local sources for what to do with the bird. She was able to identifiy it- it's a baby Assiolo owl. And it didn't need to be fed, but it did need to be put back up in a tree or low branches that evening so it's parents could find it.
My husband put the bird in our downstairs magazzino (storage room) to be in a safe place. After bidding our friends goodbye, I rushed home to check on Hemingway.
This is what I found - one very frightened little owl! But what cutie. One look at him and I knew I wanted to keep him. How could you not? Just look at that little face? He was totally petrified, so I just whispered to him that he would be ok, he was safe, and we'd do our best to get him reunited with his parents later on when it got dark.
Mike took a photo of Hemingway out where he found him, in the middle of a big open grassy area just in front of our apartment. It's in a place where lots of cats and dogs were, we were sure Hemingway would have been in one of their mouths if he was left on the ground. It was also blazing hot. Mike couldn't have left the bird there. He did the only thing he could think of, he scooped him up into a container and took him to safety.
Mike and I joked about Hemingway, our new family member, during dinner and while we waited for the sun to go down. We wondered what kind of owl he'd grow up to be, made plans for his future, all the things new parents typically do! As soon as the sun went set, Mike went down to the magazzino to get Hemingway so we could try to get him out into a tree.
Shortly after, my phone rang. Mike was on the phone telling me to run down so I could see where Hemingway was. The little bugger could fly! He wasn't in the plastic container anymore, he had flown up and landed on a metal bed frame we have stored along a wall in the magazzino. There he was , perched up above my head on this metal frame, just looking down at me. He's no bigger than my hand, but looks exactly like a big owl, in minature.
We got him scooped up into the plastic container and took him back out to the park area in front of our apartment. The trees that he had fallen from earlier that day have limbs about 30 feet off the ground, there was no way we could climb up there. Fortunately, for us, and for Hemingway, there are several young pine trees recently planted in that area. We were able to let him loose on one of the closest of these smaller pines to where Mike found him. We said our goodbyes, wished him a safe and happy life, and went inside.
A few hours later, Mike went back out with a flashlight to see if Hemingway was ok out there. Hemingway was not where we left him. He was no where in sight. Hopefully he had reunited with his parents. We already missed him, the little bugger!
We wondered about him all day today. Every time I passed through the park area, I checked out both the ground and the surrounding low trees. No sight of Hemingway.
We had another storm rolling in tonight. Of course, we worried about the owl. Just as it was starting to get dark, I heard some loud screeches coming from the trees. Mike took a flashlight and went out searching. We immediately thought Hemingway might be in trouble out there.
Guess who was making all that noise tonight? Yup, our boy Hemingway! Mike followed the sounds of the screeching, which was moving around, so clearly Hemingway was flying from tree to tree. He actually found Hemingway, perched about 20 feet up on a branch. The tiny guy is ok.
He'll probably keep us up all night with his screeching, too. I imagined that his mother, if he's been reunited with her, has been giving him what's for for being out later than 8 pm last night. That's our boy!
I've been reluctant to talk about what happened after my glorious afternoon row with the Pink Lionesses, but I've decided it's time to add more to the story.
Yes, I did go back and row that Friday. Twice in one week! I couldn't have been more blessed. When I arrived on Friday I got very enthusiastic greetings from my fellow rowers, which bowled me over completely. Truth be told, for as long as I've lived in Venice already, I have found Venetians to be quite closed. They stick to themselves. I've not had an easy time of it making friends, aside from expats. But among the locals, I am pretty much ignored. I did not come to Italy to marry an Italian, I don't have other Italian family here in this area, and don't have school age children. The normal ways to integrate into local life weren't going to work for me. So to be greeted so warmly took me by surprise. These women truly have big hearts.
The row was fantastic. I was expecting to take the same route we did on Wednesday, with a left turn onto the Grand Canal and up all the way to Ferrovia. Instead, we took a right turn and headed towards St. Mark's. As we rounded Dogana Point, Francesco steered us across the Giudecca Canal. We rowed between San Giorgio and Giudecca Island passing the Cipriani Hotel and out into the open lagoon. We then rowed towards Lido, almost to Sant'Elena! I could see Ca'Hendersoni from the boat! We rowed over to San Servolo, then over to San Clemente, and headed back towards Giudecca, passing La Grazia. Cutting through a canal on Giudecca island we entered the Giudecca Canal, then cut across a canal in Dorsoduro which took us to the Grand Canal by the Guggenheim, and then finally back down one more canal where we all disembarked. Rowing on the open lagoon is quite different than on a smaller canal. This afternoon there were quite a few waves, so we all came home drenched- but smiling. Even me!
The next Monday, I received an email from Donatella asking me to meet on Wednesday to meet with the capogruppo (the head of the group), whom I had not yet met as she had been away on vacation. I was also instructed to come prepared to row, and bring a change of clothes in case we got soaked again this time.
A third row! I was in heaven.
Meeting Anna, the capogruppo, was a bit intimidating for me. She questioned me about why I had asked to join the group, if I was intending to stay in Venice, and if so, would I plan to be active in all the group's activities, including all the non-rowing events. I was fearful my Italian speaking wouldn't be good enough, but I did my best to stammer through my answers. At this point, I had zero expectations. After the question/answer session, we suited up and went rowing. This time three rowers from the Pink Lioness group in Mestre came over to Venice to practice for the Vogalonga, the huge rowing event coming up on June 8. We rowed in open water again, and yes, we came home soaked. But happy. I was sitting at the rear of the boat this time, doing my best to row as well as I could. The time before I was a disaster. At one point Francesco yelled out "Karen, megio!" (Karen, better!), which was great encouragement for me.
After another wet row, we returned to the Maggazino del Sale to clean, dry and put away the boat. As I was leaving for the day, I got another "Come row with us again next time" invitation. Yes, I went home really happy.
The next day I received another email from Donatella, telling me she had had a phone call from Anna, the capogruppo. Anna thought I was serious and sincere about why I wanted to join the Pink Lionesses. Yay! I passed that round! Next they would all vote on accepting me as a "supporting" member, meaning I could not particpate in certain events that were only for regular members (a regular member being one who has had the surgery). That was more than ok by me! The vote is to take place at their next meeting on May 30 meeting, and in the meantime I should not row until I heard the results of the vote.
Honestly, I will be completely shocked if I get accepted into the group. There are only two other supporting members and they have a very different association with the group than I do. They were instrumental in helping organize the Venice chapter of the Pink Lionesses and getting the sponsorship of the Bucintoro rowing club. They really don't have any good reason to bother having me around.
The other day I was sitting on the Zattere enjoying some sun when along came 4 of the Pink Lionesses. They had just finished a row and were on their way home. They stopped to chat with me (wow- Venetian women stopping to chat with me?? Did that actually happen?), and they reminded me of the vote coming up. I mentioned that I didn't expect to be voted in, and their response was "Don't be silly! We'll see you soon!"
The vote is this Friday. I need all the positive energy in the world, so if you are out there reading this, please send some good thoughts my way. Nothing would please me more than to be able to participate with these marvelous women. Wish me luck.
ps (the photo above was taken on my first row out into the lagoon, and I am in the photo, but I'm hiding right behind the woman with the pink headband in the front!)
For several years now, whenever I watch one of the boating events associated with one of Venice's festivals, for example the Regata Storica or Vogalonga, I have seen this group of local women dressed in pink rowing in a dragon boat with the name Pink Lionesses. The photo below was from the Carnevale event in Cannaregio canal in 2013. Every time I've watched them row, I wished I could be rowing with them. Today that wish came true.
A few months ago, I decided to try to see if I might join their group. There was an email address on their website listed as a contact, so I sent off a message. I got back a response inviting me to attend a holiday dinner they were having. Unfortunately, timing didn't work out for us, so I did not connect on that occasion.
About 2 weeks ago, I decided I should take another try at contacting them. I shot off another email. This time I received a response inviting me to come row with them that Friday. As my luck would have it, I wasn't free then either. So I responded with my thanks and asked if I might get a rain check some other day soon. Yesterday I double checked my calendar, I was going to be free the following day, a day the ladies have a practice row. I sent off an email to Donatella, the woman who had responded the last time, asking if I might come on Wednesday. I got back a "Yes!". I was instructed to show up at the Bucintoro rowing club in the Maggazino del Sale on the Zattere at 3 pm, wearing sweats and tennis shoes.
Excited and elated, I set off for the Maggazino del Sale on the 4.2 vaporetto today. I had had zero experience rowing this kind of boat, but was eager and willing to learn. Just as I was arriving, a few other women were also walking in the door, wearing pink jackets. Easy to recognize.I was in the right place. A few seconds later, Donatella entered the room and walked right up to me smiling a huge smile. After brief introductions, I got the two kisses on the cheeks welcome! Then Donatella sits me down and says we need to talk. She explained that the requirement to be a member of the Pink Lionesses is that you must be a Breast Cancer surgery survivor. I knew the group was associated with supporting survivors of Breast Cancer, but I didn't know you had to be a survivor. I thought supporting the cause would be enough. I also thought they had a large number of members. They have 15 members here in Venice.
Donatella went on to explain more about the organization, and how rowing is a very therapeutic way to recover from breast cancer surgery. Sadly, since I had not had breast cancer surgery, I could not be a member. After thanking Donatella for her time, I was about to head for the door. She gave me her big smile again and said, "But come row with us today. Let's see how you do." She took me upstairs to meet the other Pink Lionesses, they lent me a pink jacket, outfitted me with an oar and a pink life jacket, and we went outside to get the dragon boat into the water.
Here are 5 of the women in the boat about to be lowered into the Giudecca canal. A few women go into the water with the boat, then they row around to the next canal where everyone else boards the boat. I got the last seat, partnered with Donatella. She gave me some tips about how to make the correct stroke with the paddle in the water. Before I knew it, off we went.
I caught on quickly. This is much easier than rowing in the Venetian style standing up. In the dragonboat, you sit down, like a canoe. There is one person in the tail end steering and yelling out instructions. Francesco, the young man handling that job was fantastic, as were all the women rowing with me today.
There is something special about being in a boat rowing down the Grand Canal. I could barely believe I was actually there, doing something I'd only dreamed of. As vaporettos and gondolas with passengers passed us, everyone cheered and applauded the pink lionesses. I wanted to cheer for them myself, but I had a paddle in my hand that needed to be dealt with.
We headed up the Grand Canal towards Rialto. When we got under the Rialto bridge, the women all shouted "Ciao, Ragazze!" Donatella leaned over to explain they were giving a special tribute to all the other women who had not survived their battle against breast cancer.
As we approached San Marcuolo, we slowed the pace and came to a halt. Each pair of women, starting with the first row, then proceeding row by row to the back, exchanged places on their bench. Donatella explained the changing of positions allows each woman to exercise the muscles in both shoulders and arms each time they practice. Right after we switched positions, we turned the boat around and headed back towards Dorsoduro.
We rowed for an hour and a half. The women talked and joked amongst themselves as they rowed, but I was afraid if I got in on the banter I'd lose my concentration and wouldn't keep up with the pace of rowing. We made our way back to the canal where we'd boarded the boat to disembark. As we helped one another out of the boat, each of the women asked me how I liked it and if I was tired. My shoulders were feeling it a little, but I just loved every minute of it.
After every row, the boat is washed before it is put away. I got to join in on the clean up activities too. It was a little sad to have to take off my pink life preserver and jacket.
There are almost no words to describe how honored I was today to be welcomed by and to be in the midst of this group of courageous, strong, beautiful women, and to be allowed to share in something so special. I could not, and would never understand the struggle these women have gone through and continue to face on a daily basis.
As I said my goodbyes, the women called out "Come row with us on Friday!"
Today didn't turn out anything like I anticipated. It was way worse, but it gave me yet another huge reminder that living in a foreign country isn't always fun and games. Just maneuvering the simplest of tasks can often times be frustrating beyond belief. Here's a case in point: this morning I needed to go to the bank to make a payment to someone elsewhere in Italy by sending money from my bank to their bank account, sort of equivalent to a wire transfer. Here it's called a bonifico. I was diligent about gathering all of the information I would need before I set out for Via Garibaldi. I'd done this before, I thought I knew what to expect. Confident this would be a piece of cake, off I went.
First there is the fun of just getting inside the bank door to contend with you. If you've never tried this in Italy, I highly recommend you give it a go if you are here, just for the fun of it. There isn't a normal door at the entrance to bank, but rather a rounded glass door, sort of like a pod or transport system you might imagine being used to "beam you up". To get into this portal of sorts, you must press a green button located to the right of the door. You go into the bank one person at a time. First the outer pod door opens, allowing you to enter this portal type thing. Ok, you are now inside the "pod". Then, you press yet another green button, and a second rounded door opens, allowing you to exit the pod and into the bank. I get a kick out of this every time I have to use it.
Once inside the bank, you wait your turn. Fortunately this morning, the wait was almost non-existent. I took my seat opposite the clerk on the other side of the counter, whose name is Fabio. I see him frequently up and down Via Garibaldi. Fabio is an interesting looking character, with shoulder length flowing white hair. He looks more like a rock star than a bank teller.
I explain to Fabio what I need to have done, he accesses my account on his computer and announces that I must go to the branch location where I opened my account, at Piazzale Roma, to answer some questionnaire and sign a document before he can do anything for me. Nothing. I am at a branch of my bank, but he cannot process whatever this questionnaire is, and I can do no banking until this is handled. I have no clue what he's talking about, but decide I need to get to the other bank and get whatever it is taken care of. I exit the bank, again using the 2 green buzzer door system, and get to the nearest vaporetto stop as soon as I can. It's nearly a 55 minute boat ride on the #1 boat from Via Garibaldi to Piazzale Roma, and the #1 was the boat pulling up. Rather than wait for a boat that would take less time, I hopped on this one and quickly figured I could disembark at Ca'Rezzonico and walk faster than do the whole ride on the boat.
My decision to walk paid off, I arrived at the bank 20 minutes before the boat would have docked. Again, I entered the bank using the green buzzers and the beam-me-up portal, and waited my turn inside.
When it was my turn at the sportello (that's the counter, in American terms), the clerk tells me that yes, I must answer the questionnaire and sign it. The questionnaire turns out to be about money-laundering. The bank wants to know where I got all the money I deposited into my account since March 2013. Here's where things get very funny, and I really wanted to laugh, but knew that would piss everyone off. See, I deposited only 200 Euros in this account in the last 12 months. I kept a straight face as best I could, filled out the form, signed it, and proceeded to handle the matter I went to the bank for in the first place. I had a second matter at the bank this morning also, but decided I needed a big break. The second matter could wait until my screaming headache went away.
Home I went. I relaxed over lunch and a cup of tea. At 3:15 pm I made my way back to Via Garibaldi to my local branch, which would be able to service my banking needs now that my money laundering questionnaire had been completed. Fabio, my teller from the morning, was busy with someone else, so I had the pleasure of being served by his colleague (whose name I am trying to forget, so I won't bother to mention it here. HE knows who he is).
The teller processed my transaction 3 times, and reversed it twice, because he couldn't quite make up his mind how he wanted to do it. He could use money that was already in my account, or I could deposit money into my account, or I could just pay in cash for the payment I needed to make. I told him I didn't care how he did it as long as it got done. What probably should have taken 5 minutes took him 40 minutes. It got done, and I had another whopper headache.
Before I left the bank, I decided to take on one more task. The reason I had to hike all the way to Piazzale Roma to the bank to sign that f-ing form this morning is because I had not moved my account to my local area after I moved apartments. I use the bank about once a year (and you can see why not) so this wasn't a priority for me. Big mistake. In Italy, not all services can be done for you in a branch office if it's not the location you opened the account at. I never wanted to have to haul my butt to Piazzale Roma again. Solution: stick around a bit longer and go through the process to have my account moved. I had to see a different agent for this. (Thank goodness, because I probably would have strangled my friend Teller #2 if I had to deal with him one more minute).
Moving the bank account was painless, thankfully. However, the whole thing is not a done deal yet. It will take some time, a few days, it is explained to me, to have his colleague at Piazzale Roma do who knows what, and at that time I will be issued a new bank account number. Huh? Same bank, different branch and it needs a whole new number? I am in disbelief. I don't really care for an explanation at this point, I just want them to do what they need to do and get it all done with. With my headache pounding even harder, I made a very quick exit. At least in a few days some of these woes will have been resolved. Hopefully my headached will be gone by then also.
The internet is truly a powerful tool. It connects me to all of you, and through this blog I've met incredible people, both through emails and in person. Our latest adventure came about through a series of messages on the internet, when I responded to a request made in an online group I belong to for someone who might be interested in house sitting for a few days. One thing led to another and in under an hour of chatting, I was booking train tickets to LeMarche.
Mike and I will be way off the grid, but with internet connection this time. We'll be spending the week at a lovely villa up in the hills in the LeMarche region of Italy, an area we have not yet been to. While we'll be without a car, we're still hoping to be able to get out and explore a bit.
So- the adventure begins today. We board a train right after lunch for Bologna, then transfer trains to Porto S. Giorgio-Fermo arriving around 7 pm.
We're going to be up in the hills, somewhere a bit above Fermo. From the photos we've seen, the area is just gorgeous. Of course, my camera is going along in the suitcase with me! We're planning on some quiet, peaceful days. Hopefully we'll both get some writing done. We've just returned from a 12 day cruise on a mega-ship along with 3500 passengers which was anything but quiet, so this will be a welcome treat for us for a few days!
Tomorrow, January 6, is the day of Epiphany, a Christian religious celebration in honor of the day the three wise men arrived in Bethlehem to visit the baby Jesus. In Italy, the celebration involves a witch, La Befana, who flies on her broom on the night of January 5 to deliver candies to all good children, or coal to the bad ones!
In olden days, Italian children didn't get gifts on Christmas from Santa, only candies on January 6 from La Befana. In more recent times, Santa (Babbo Natale) delivers presents to Italian children too. Lucky Italian kids!
January 6 is also marks the end of the Christmas/New Year's holidays. It's a long two weeks of almost non-stop eating, starting with Christmas eve, then Christmas day, then Santo Stefano day on December 26. There's a little break, but it seems we're still stuffing ourselves on traditional sweets of panettone or pandoro until New Year's eve. On that night, you eat a huge meal, cenone consisting of many, sometimes up to 15, different courses of food. And, again on New Year's day there is more food, when families eat a traditional meal of lentils and cotechino, similar to a sausage. Lentils supposedly bring good luck or good fortune in the new year, so of course, you cannot miss eating those. Christmas trees and decorations stay up until January 6.
In other Italian cities, there is a huge bonfire on the night of January 5 to celebrate the arrival of La Befana. In Venice, things are handled a bit differently. Tomorrow morning at 10 am there will be a regatta in the Grand Canal starting at San Toma and ending at the Rialto bridge. Rowers will all be dressed as Befanas, with shawls, dresses, hats and wigs. At the end of the race, there will be mulled wine, hot chocolate and candies for all.
Get your cameras ready tomorrow morning, find a spot along the Grand Canal near Rialto. I'll meet you there!
January 1, 2014 couldn't have started off with any better weather. It was sunny, crystal clear, and warm with temperatures in the upper 50's- the perfect day for the annual Polar Bear Plunge into the Adriatic Sea. Here in Venice, a group called "gli ibernisti" take a swim at the public beach on the Lido, followed by a lively celebration to bring in the New Year right!
Although I've known about this event, this was the first year I attended. No, I did not participate- a bit too cold for me to be jumping into the Adriatic. However, I will admit, it was such a warm day and everyone out there in the water was having such a good time, I was truly very tempted to join them.
Music, clowns and lots of bubbles kept the crowd happy while waiting for the swimmers to arrive.
The sea was peaceful and calm. It would have been a wonderful morning for a long walk along the coast.
At 12 noon, these brave souls donned in bathing suits parted the crowds as they made their way to the beach front.
The actual swim didn't last long, under 10 minutes.
Everyone made their way back to the shore where there was lots of photo taking.
Unusual footwear!
These lovely ladies were adorned with sparkly necklaces just right for the occassion.
You can tell who the "regulars" are!
After the plunge, the celebration turned up a notch. The band entertained the crowds with familiar selections of both Italian and American tunes. Many were dancing and singing along.
Even the dogs were taking advantage of the warm mid-day sun!
The entire crowd lined up for a bowl of lentils and cotechino, a traditional New Year's day meal in this part of Italy. Eating lentils on New Years is said to bring good luck, similar to eating pinto beans in the USA. Panettone, pandoro (traditional holiday sweets) and local wine (sfuso) siphoned from a vat for everyone was an added treat. The fantastic weather only aided in helping all of us get in the spirit of the celebration. I can imagine in other years taking the swim or being an observer might not be so pleasant depending on how frigid the day is.
Here's to 2014! I hope this coming year is filled with good health, love, laughter, and dreams fulfilled for all of you. Buon Anno Nuovo!
How to make an ordinary day extraordinary? Take ten minutes to watch about 50 Venetians participating in one of the cities newer traditions, the annual Babbo Natale regatta. Despite fog and spitting rain, these stalwart rowers donned their Babbo Natale (Santa Claus) outfits and raced the course between San Zaccaria and Ca'Foscari down the Grand Canal yesterday.
I took up a post just the San Zaccaria vaporetto stop, knowing I wouldn't be able to see any more than all the racers queuing up and taking off. It was enough to put a big smile on my face and start my day off right.
This rower changed up their outfit a little bit by adding a reindeer hat (FYI- reindeer in Italian is la renna)
The boat with the pink flag on the end is the local Pink Lioness group, an organization who row in support of Breast cancer research and cures.
This is still pre-race, and although hard to distinquish in my photo, this woman is taking a last minute phone call, probably from the North Pole!
Elves, reindeer and Santas, oh my!
The race official giving the signal to begin racing.
While standing around waiting for the regatta to kick off, this boat was just off to my right, decorated to the hilt for Natale.
It's been a week of preparation for the holidays. Besides getting our tree up, apartment decorated, last minute gifts purchased and meals planned, my preparations included beefing up my Italian vocabulary related to Christmas and studying about Christmas traditions in Italy.
Here's some useful Italian vocabulary, if like me, you are learning too!
Buone Feste - Happy Holidays
Buon Natale - Merry Christmas
Felice Anno Nuovo - Happy New Year
Stella di Natale - Poinsettia
Babbo Natale - Santa Claus
la renna - reindeer
la slitta - sleigh
il presepe - nativity scene
il presepe vivante - living nativity scene
il pupazzo di neve - snowman
il fiocco di neve - snowflake
il regalo - present
l'albero di Natale - Christmas tree
la vigilia di Natale - Christmas eve
luci di Natale - Christmas lights
This is, believe it or not, the top of a torte in the window of one of my favorite bakeries ( pasticceria) in Castello. Too pretty to eat!
Here's a version of the classic Christmas song, Santa Claus is Coming to Town, performed in Venetian dialect by one of my favorite local groups, Ska-J.
So far this month, I've had several firsts. No, I'm not talking about the first day of December.
1)...there was the first panettone of the 2013 season
Panettone is a cross between a bread and a cake, more bread-like though, and comes in two standard versions - classico (with raisins and candied fruit) or without. My personal favorite is with the fruit. Every grocery sells a large selection of brands, and each pastry shop makes them. It wouldn't be Christmas without panettone.
2) - My first sighting of Babbo Natale
Babbo Natale ( otherwise known as Santa ) doesn't come down the chimney here in Venice like he would in the United States. No, he climbs in through a window. This time of year you will see Babbo Natale make his appearance on balconies and the iron work surrounding windows. This guy is the first one I've spotted. Just might go on my annual Babbo Natale hunt in a few days to see how many I can find in my neighborhood.
3) - the first Acqua Bassa
Acqua Bassa is "low" water, meaning a very unusual low tide. Typically it's this time of year we are all on the look out for the high water, Acqua Alta. Instead, over the last few days we've seen very low water in the canals. It's always strange to see so many steps visible on days like these. Not what we're used to at all
4- first sighting of fur coats out for the season
It's officially winter, and that means the fur coats are out in force. They are worn to go to the market every morning, to walk the dog, or even to take out the trash. Everyone wears them. In every color, style, and length imaginable.
5- My first close up photo of this bird, probably an egret.
I first spotted this guy in the vicinity of the Ca'Rezzonico vaporetto stop over the summer months. Every time I tried to snap a photo, he flew away. The other day, he was perched on a pole at the Sant'Elena vaporetto, and let me get just a few feet from him, enough to get a few pictures.
What "firsts" have you had recently? Share them with me, please. Can't wait to compare notes.
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
