Venice Carnevale 2015 Corteo Acqua

Part Two of Venice's Carnevale kick off weekend is a grand boat parade starting at Dogana Point, just across from St. Mark's square, snaking all the way up through the Grand Canal, ending on Cannaregio Canal.  The first weekend of Carnevale is always a celebration for and by the locals, called the Festa Veneziana, before the hordes of tourists flock the city for the over-the-top masquerade balls and lavish events that will begin next week.

If you are a Venice lover who keeps up with Venice events, you probably have already seen numerous photos and read blogs about yesterday's event, the Corteo Acqua (boat parade). I've blogged about this event in previous years as well. This year, the entire event was very different for me. I wasn't on the sideline snapping photos as the parade passed along the Grand Canal. I wasn't on onlooker. No. I was IN a boat, in that parade. My perspective was dramatically different this time around, for good reason. 

Two years ago, as a spectator to this very same event, standing canal side in Cannaregio, I spotted the Pink Lionesses of Venice for the very first time. There they were, in a glorious dragon boat, dressed all in pink with feathered masks on their faces, rowing amidst all the other boats.  I wished I could be rowing in that dragon boat with them.  I didn't know anything about them, but they stood out, they were a bit different than all the other costumed rowers, and they were rowing a dragon boat instead of standing up rowing in typical Voga Veneto style. Long story short, I am now a member of the Pink Lionesses. Yesterday was my first time rowing in the Carnevale Corteo Acqua.  

Preparations for the parade began a couple of weeks ago, as we Lionesses planned how we'd decorate the boat to reflect this year's Carnevale theme "La Festa piu geloso del mondo" or The world's most delicious festival.  One of our members came up with an ingenious way to make large fruits, which she executed over the next few days. She made the fruit, and a couple of the rest of us were called on to some how attach the decorations to the boat, including yours truly. 

This past friday afternoon, I spent a few hours arranging, and sewing, yes, sewing these paper mache fruits to a plastic grid cut in the shape of the prow of the boat. After all the fruit were sewed on, we then attached the grid to the boat.  It all miraculously worked out; the boat was ready for the big event, and so were we.

She looks pretty good, doesn't she?

What most people don't realize when they line up to watch the Corteo is that we all start quite a bit earlier.  Our boat was very carefully  (hoping not to destroy the fruit) lifted by crane into the water. Then a few of us paddled over to the next canal where everyone else loaded up. Yesterday acqua alta (high water) struck just around the same time we needed to embark, which made loading up a bit more treacherous.  Notice the water level in the next photo- it's even with  the sidewalk.  

 Masks on, we were ready!

The Corteo started at Dogana Point, where all the participants were to gather. While we waited for everyone to assemble, we were treated to a concerto high above the Grand Canal. You can see the crane holding a grand piano and musician in the center of this photo below.  

  Part of the parade assembly process included checking-in with  parade officials, who also threw bottles of water and sandwiches (tramezzini) into each boat for the rowers. And then we waited. And waited some more. 

It's tradition that the giant pantegane (rat) leads the parade.  Our boat was right next to the rat, as we waited for the signal to begin. There were some announcements made over a loud speaker by the parade official, everyone raised oars in a traditional tribute, and off we went!

There were more than a hundred boats yesterday, filled with local rowers in costume.  As we rowed you could just feel the happiness and joy among all the rowers. Cheers were being called from boat to boat between rowers as they recognized friends.  The crowds lining the Grand Canal waved and yelled to all of us. What a great feeling it was to be in the water, part of it all.

Spirits were soaring, despite the turn in the weather.  It started out cold. The cold continued, only to worsen with the start of rain and hail. That didn't slow anyone down.

Passersby on vaporettos waved and snapped photos. The Accademia and Rialto bridges were lined with people all cheering us all on.  I'd been in their spot in previous years. I have to tell you, it's better in the boat.

When we made the turn onto Cannaregio canal, there was an entirely different feel in the air. The excitement level had cranked up several notches. There were lots more people. Lots more cheering. It was an emotional scene for all of us in the boats, all of us proud and happy to be there. 

Parade officials located at the Tre Arche bridge were announcing various boats as we made our way up the canal.  Boats docked everywhere a spot was available, and the canal-side party began in earnest, right after the pantegane (big rat) released a rat belly full of balloons into the sky.  

Restaurants, cafes, bars and pastry shops all over town donated food, beverages and sweets, distributed at booths lining both sides of Cannaregio Canal.   Venetian dishes including sarde and saor, bigoli in salsa, pasta e fagioli, and the traditional Carnevale desserts frittelle and galani were available for all. Fortunately for all of us the weather had calmed down considerably by this time. 

The one downfall to being in a boat is not being able to have my camera. I was able to snap a few photos with my camera here and there. Not quite the same. That's ok. I was happy to sacrifice some photos for the sheer joy of being able to row and be a part of this special celebration. 

To give you a better view of the entire event, here's the official Carnevale You Tube video of yesterday's Corteo Acqua.  See if you can spot me, I'm wearing pink!

Here's to new friends!

We woke to another winter day in Venice shrouded in fog. Not just fog, but the kind of thick fog you can cut with a knife.  Incredible. I had made plans to meet an American woman for coffee this morning at Ciak, a cafe just off Campo San Toma. Linda, another person  just like me who has answered Venice's siren call, is here on vacation again, this time with her son and daughter-in-law. Last time she was here we'd planned to meet but I, at the last minute, couldn't make it. This time nothing was going to keep me away, not even the cold I'd been battling the last few days (it miraculously was much better this morning), nor this pea-soup of a fog. 

As I walked up to the vaporetto stop, I recognized Alessandro, one of my favorite gondoliers, who was also just about to walk onto the boat platform.  After a quick hello, we discovered we were both headed to San Toma, so rode the whole way up the foggy Grand Canal out in the middle open area of the boat. Our conversation had me laughing - each sentence was half in Italian, half in English-  and covered every topic from the weather (FOG!), to the city's problems with the America's Cup race, to my elderly mother, to vacationing in Naples and back to fog.  I was loving the start of this day already. 

Alessandro and I stopped for a macciato together at Ciak. He went off to work, I grabbed a table and a local newspaper to wait for Linda to arrive. I thought it was just going to be Linda, myself, and her son and daughter-in-law. Turns out there would be 4 more joining us, all people who had met through the Slow Travel website.  Susie and  Mark from San Francisco, and  Christie and Paul, also coincidentally from San Francisco arrived at about the same time.  Both these couples, like Linda, come to Venice every year for several weeks to several months. The conversation at our table of 8 flowed on and on,  just like we were long lost high school buddies at a reunion.  Instead, we were strangers who, because of a mutual attraction to this city, and thanks to the internet have become new friends. Thank you, Venice and Al Gore!  

So that was my morning. 

By mid day, the fog had burned off quite a bit. By late afternoon, it had rolled right back in again. Mike and I went off for a walk through Castello with a few stops for errands. Before we got all the way back to Sant'Elena I needed a restroom, which prompted a detour at Osteria al Ponte, very close to the  Giardini.  While having coffee, I noticed a plate of freshly made homemade frittelle on the counter. Try as I might, I could not resist the temptation. These were the Veneziane version- not filled with anything, just fried dough. Sweet, warm, scrumptious.   Best frittelle I've had so far, surpassing my favorites with ricotta. Now that I know they are here, I'm going to have to really hold myself back from making an "unplanned" stopoff here everyday. 

Right before dinner, our doorbell rang. Neither Mike nor I actually recognized it was the doorbell until it rang a few times. We have 2 bells in the new apartment- one downstairs outside by the front door, and a second one just outside our entrance doorway up here on the second floor. When we get visitors, they ring the outside bell. From in the apartment, we can pick up a phone to talk to anyone outside, and there is also a video so we can see anyone standing out there.  Once we buzz people into the building, one of us is always out in the hall outside our apartment door. I feel like Molly Goldberg (ok, I know I am dating myself with this reference), leaning over the railing and yelling down from the second floor. Tonight, when the other doorbell rang outside our door, we had to think twice to figure out there was someone out there. 

Mike answered the door and spoke to whoever it was. Turns out it was our new upstairs neighbor, whom we have met in passing as we are coming or going. Cesare was at the door with an invitation to his birthday party on Wednesday night. 

My day started and ended with new friends. Can't beat that, can I? 

First frittelle of the season!!

I've had a cold since New Year's day, feeling quite crappy unfortunately. Last night as Mike was leaving the apartment for his walk, I asked him to bring back something for me that would make me feel better. Guess what my present was???  FRITTELLE!!!  I still felt crappy, but he sure did give my spirits a big boost!

Frittelle, for those of you who don't already know, are a Venetian treat made only at Carnevale time. It's essentially a fried doughnut, but even better!  The dough usually has raisins and pine nuts in it, and it can be filled with lovely stuffings such as creme , nutella, chocolate, zabaglione, marmalade, and ricotta, or left vuota (empty).

These tasty morsels are perhaps my favorite thing about Carnevale. I look forward to winter just so I can have frittelle. We've even put them in the freezer at the end of the season so I could stretch out my frittelle consumption a little bit longer. Just like in summer when I am a 2 or 3 gelato a day girl, Carnevale season I become a 2 Frittelle a day girl. Every bakery in town makes their own versions, all delightful.

Bakeries stack trays of frittelle in their windows, it's impossible to resist!

The link below is to a video of Cesare Colonnese, a Venetian, who shares his recipe for frittelle. Watch it and enjoy!  Yes, it's all in Venetian, but it's worth taking a few minutes, both to see the frittelle making and to enjoy Cesare!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mTce74ZDXHI

If you are going to be in Venice this year over Carnevale, I recommend treating yourself to some frittelle. Go on your own "Great Frittelle Hunt".  Try a frittelle in each bakery you pass.  Bet you can't eat just one!!  Some of my favorites places to find frittelle include:

Tonolo near the Frari in Dorsoduro
Majer in Campo Santa Margherita, Dorsoduro  or Via Garibaldi, Castello
Rizzardini by Campo San Polo, San Polo
Colussi by Campo San Barnaba


Carnevale 2013 officially begins January 26, ending on February 12 this year.  My Venetian friends have informed me this morning that eating frittelle before January 7 is not just not allowed.  January 7 is the day Carnevale started in past times,the day after Epiphany, and ended 40 days before Easter.   Since the 1980's, Venice has celebrated Carnevale for just  the last 10 days of that period.  I confess, I have violated the rule.

I tried to argue with my friends based on the fact that I am not Venetian and will never be considered a local, therefore the rule regarding not eating frittelle prior to Jan 7 just doesn't apply to me.  That logic didn't fly!!!   Fortunately for all of us January 7 is just a few days away!!!

Prelude to Carnevale

They're back!!!!  Frittelle, that tasty little morsel of fried dough stuffed with crema, zabaiglone or ricotta and made only in the Venice area and ONLY at Carnevale time, have been sighted in bakeries this week!!

Unfortunately this is not a great photo, but I couldn't resist snapping a quick shot with my phone as I passed the bakery next to our apartment, so you get a lovely reflection of one of the buildings across the canal as a bonus!

I've been vowing to eat more sensibly  in the hopes of shedding the extra pounds I put on while eating with sheer abandon during our vacation and the holidays. Frittelle are not going to help my cause any!  Already I've had two of them!  I had to introduce our friends Anne and Kate from St.Louis to them, so we stopped off at Rizzardini's where I ate my first of the season, filled with zabaiglone. Heaven!  What is it about fried dough???

Yesterday, I HAD to have one filled with ricotta, so I ducked into the Majer. I will bet you there is another ricotta filled frittelle coming home with me today.

Frittelle in the bakery is the first sign that Carnevale is on it's way. It's almost like hearing robins singing- you know spring is right around the corner. Same with Frittelle.  Our harbinger of Carnevale season.

This year, similar to last year, Venice will host a weekend of events Feb 4-5, prior to the official start of Carnevale which is on Feb 11. Here's a link to the website where you can see a list of all the events requiring tickets, which you can order on the site as well:

http://www.venice-carnival-italy.com/

Some of the biggest events are the Marie's Parade on Feb 11 which starts at San Pietro in Castello and ends in St. Mark's square, and the Flight of the Angel, at noon on Feb 12 in St. Mark's square.

The Marie's parade starts at San Pietro in Castello and ends in St. Mark's square, where the 12 Marie's are presented to the Doge.  Just prior to Carnevale, 12 Marie's are selected in a beauty pageant like contest held at the Casino. These 12 Maries preside over various events throughout the city during Carnevale week, including appearances at several masked balls. At this special parade the Marie's are acompanied by groups of people from cities nearby Venice, in traditional dress. Many of the groups have flag throwers performing. It's an interesting parade to watch full of pomp and ceremony, as well as 12 beautiful Marie's. (Below is small  clip of last year's parade)

The flight of the Angel involves a person "flying" down a wire cable from the Campanile across the square down to the stage at the opposite end of the square where the Doge is waiting to greet them. In previous years, there has been a celebrity "Angel", however in recent times, in a cost cutting effort, the Angel has been the winning Marie from the previous year. This year will be the same. It doesn't matter who does the flying, it's an event worth experiencing to kick off the big Carnevale week. St. Mark's square will be packed to capacity, with barely room to breathe.  You can purchase a ticket to get a close up spot for the Flight of the Angel, however the majority of the throng will just be jammed into the square with cameras, sans a good position, just like me.

Here's a list of some of the famous "Angels" from the past few years ( just in case you were curious, as I was).


2005: Carolina Marconi, model and actress;
 2006: Manuela Levorato, sprinter;
 2007: Federica Pellegrini, swimmer;
2008: Coolio, rap singer, with a costume by Moschino;
2009: Margherita Maccapani Missoni, actress, with a costume by Missoni;
2010: Bianca Brandolini d'Adda, model, with a costume by Giambattista Valli;
2011: Silvia Bianchini, winner of the beauty contest of the Festa delle Marie 2010, with a costume by Emanuela Finardi and Stefano Nicolao.

And finally, a clip of the Flight of the Angel from a previous year, to get you sufficiently psyched for Carnevale 2012!

Carnevale is in the air!

 When the calendar flips to February, I look forward to the telltale signs all over Venice that it won't be long before Carnevale arrives in full force.  Confetti and streamers on the streets is one of my favorite harbingers of what's to come.

Carnevale is one of the special events in Venice that I could not wait to experience first hand when we moved here. In all the years we'd been vacationing here, we always managed to miss Carnevale, since our month was always mid-March to mid-April.  Upon  arrival, we'd notice confetti still in all the cracks of the stones on the street, a sign of all we'd missed.  Having experienced Carnevale first-hand, this is now one of my favorite times of the year.

Last year, some happy party-goer stuffed a handful of confetti into our mail slot. On the inside of our door is a mailbox with a plastic  window in it. I never removed the confetti, I've looked at it every day as I leave the house. It puts a smile on my face every time. This year, I have already purchased  my own bags of confetti and streamers!

When  frittelle begin to appear in all the  the windows of the local bakeries, it's another sign that Venice is getting ready for Carnevale. These delicious little morsels- well, ok- they are not so little- of fried dough, raisins and pine nuts with delicious fillings of crema, zabaigone, fruit, ricotta cheese, or just plain (called Frittelle Veneziana) are only available during the Carnevale season in this part of Italy.  Ricotta filled frittelle are my favorites, but I have not turned down a frittelle yet if offered one! I've been known to eat 3-4 a day. This year, I've been a very good girl and have limited my intake to one per week.  Frittelle sell for 1 - 1.50 Euro in most bakeries- one of the best inexpensive treats Venice has to offer.