We've moved from Baltimore, Maryland USA to Venice, Italy in pursuit of living our dream!



Showing posts with label #Italyfood. Show all posts
Showing posts with label #Italyfood. Show all posts

Thursday, January 1, 2015

Buon Anno 2015 !

Happy New Year!






I hope everyone had a wonderful New Year's Eve and that today, the first day of the new year, started off on the right foot for you all. Did everyone eat lentils last night and/or today?  And remember to wear some red underwear?

This morning we took the vaporetto to the Lido then walked the short distance down to the beach to watch the annual "Polar Bear Plunge" which is called "gli iberisti" in Italian. I can't comprehend how these people jump into frigid water! One of the women told me it was very invigorating.  I was invigorated enough just walking over there and standing watching them in -2 C temps today!






Last night's New Year's Eve cenone turned out to be beyond our expectations. Excellent food, excellent company, a great night all around.  But, it didn't start out so great, and had all the markings of a monumental disaster. 


As I stepped out of our building headed to pick up our dinner from the caterer around 4:30 pm yesterday, this is the sunset I got treated to.  What a sight for the last evening of the year!

The caterer is located on the complete opposite side of the city, way over near the train station, in the Santa Croce district. The most convenient way for me to get there was to take the 5.2 vaporetto, get off at Piazzale Roma then walk the rest of the way. Knowing I had to pick up food for 4 people, I took my trusty carrello (grocery cart).  It was really cold, I wasn't liking the whole idea of doing this as I started out, but was eager for a good night so off I went.

When I arrived at the caterers, he took one look at me with my carrello and gave me a look of pure horror.  ( I need to interject an important fact here, something I have not mentioned yet. I was picking up the food at the caterers place of business, which is a take out pizza joint. I suspect he wanted to expand his business a little, so he advertised a take out 6 course dinner for New Years Eve.  The menu looked great, the price was very reasonable.  I proposed this to our friends Anne and Greg who would be joining us on NYE, and when they agreed to give it a go, I made the reservations. )

The caterer, Andrea, dressed in chef whites, a red apron wrapped around his waist and a red chefs hat on his head, motioned to a stack of 5 large, long white boxes on the counter. Then he motioned to my carrello and said "What did you think you were doing with that?"  I asked back, " Can we take all the food out and pile it into the carrello? "  "NO. " I understood the emphasis on the period after that word as he said it. I asked if we could slide the boxes into the carrello carefully.  "NO."   I thought for a second he was going to give me the classic hand motion to get out of the shop.  Instead, he walked around a bit, back into the kitchen, back out to  the counter area, then back into the kitchen and back out again. His wife made an appearance. She laughed. I wasn't laughing. Here were 5 very large boxes of food and I had no way to get them home.

Andrea came back out to my carrello and slid the canvas bag part of the thing off it's frame. Then he walked off again, returning with a plastic crate that coca cola bottles get delivered in. He turned that upside down and began duct taping it to the carrello frame. His wife quickly joined in, I just stood there and looked.  Next, he took 2 of the food boxes and strapped them down tightly to the plastic crate. Then he did the same thing to the remaining 3 food boxes.  He duct taped them up. He duct taped them down. He duct taped them all around. He gave it a test drive around the shop to make sure nothing would slip and slide around. He gave me the thumbs up and said "Ok to go!" with a big smile.

His wife asked me how far I needed to go to get home.  "Sant'Elena", I responded.  Oh good lord, she says to me, I hope you make it home by mezzonotte (midnight!).  Me too!

I carefully wheeled my carrello down the street and over bridges as I made my way back to Piazzale Roma.  To do this most carefully, I should have taken the #1 vaporetto home because I could have just wheeled the cart onto the boat without having to go up or down any steps. But, the problem with this is the #1 boat would have taken me 20 minutes longer to get back home. I opted to take the shorter route, and got on the 5.1 boat. I carefully maneuvered my unwieldy cargo down the stairs but had to sit out in the open part of the boat, in the cold frigid night air. It was -4 C last night.

My carrello and boxes

My New Year's Eve dinner and I arrived back home safely.  Mike came down to help me carry it up to the second floor, and then we started unpacking everything in the kitchen. Andrea had very meticulously packaged each of the food courses for person individually in a box. We had 2 big boxes labeled Carne (meat), 2 labeled Pesce (fish), and a fifth labeled Zuppe (soup). I also had a small plastic bag Andrea had handed me before leaving the shop.  Inside each box were separate small containers each with a different course in it.  I can't imagine how much work he had to go through to organize each order.

Our next task was to figure out how we would heat up each of these different courses.  Mike devised a cooking plan and had everything staged perfectly. Our guests arrived, we all got a great laugh out of the whole food retrieval saga, and sat down to a wonderful New Year's Eve Cenone.

I took a few photos of some of the courses, and regrettable, got so involved in dinner that I forgot to take the rest of them. Here are two courses each from both the meat and the fish dinners. Absolutely fantastic meal.

Turkey and almond salad in a parmesan basket

Shrimp in saor

Shrimp with pomegranate sauce and clementines. 

Pumpkin, eggplant and zucchine medalions with proscuitto crudo di Parma and Morlacco cheese.

To end the night, we had a selection of yummy pastries. We were all so stuffed it was all we could do to get up from the table. Mike and Greg braved the cold weather to walk down to Giardini to take photos of the fireworks. Anne and I watched from our kitchen balcony. 

I get some hairbrained ideas now and then, and I must admit doing catered take out New Year's Eve dinner is one of them. Now that I know what the drill is for carrying boxes home, I'd do this again it was that good. I'd take extra arms along with me and just carry the boxes carefully in our hands. 
If I were back in the US, all of this wouldn't have ever occurred. I'd have put all of the boxes in the back seat of my car, or perhaps in the trunk.  But no. I had to pull our dinner home on a duct-taped carrello. It makes for a better story this way! 

Buon Anno!! 




Tuesday, December 23, 2014

Countdown to Christmas - Italian Style! December 23


photo courtesy felt.co.nz

We are ALMOST to the end! Welcome back for Countdown to Christmas- Italian Style Day 23 (ventitre).

Everyone I know, including myself, was running around today shopping for all the ingredients they need to make the traditional Cenone della Vigilia or Christmas Eve dinner.

The word Cenone means big dinner in Italian, and is usually used when referring to the Christmas Eve or New Year's Eve feast. The Christmas Eve meal is also commonly called the Feast of Seven Fishes, because during this meal you would eat seven different types of fish or shellfish. They can be seven different courses, or seven fishes spread out over several courses, as seven different fishes are used during the meal.

The reason we eat seven different fishes or seven fish courses is because seven is the number that is repeated most often in the Bible. There is the Seven deadly sins, the seven sacrements, it took seven days for Joseph and Mary to reach Bethlehem, it took 7 days for the creation. I know you can think of even more examples of seven - the seven hills of Rome, seven wonders of the world. Essentially, the feast of seven fishes can refer to just about anything referencing seven and you are good to go.

Fish was traditionally eaten to purify the body and prepare for the big feast that is to come on Christmas Day.  In Italy, the next few days are huge eating events. We have not only the Cenone on Christmas Eve, then there is another big meal on Christmas Day, followed by Santo Stefano Day on December 26 and even more eating.

The Rialto fish market was packed this morning as locals purchased all the fish and shellfish they would need for the coming days.While the dishes served may vary from region to region throughout Italy,   eel , usually grilled or fried, is the one dish you will find in common whether you are in the North or way down South in the boot.


                                                                   At the Rialto Fish Market

In the Venice area, most likely you will find Bacala (made from Salt Cod), Sarde and saor (fried sardines marinated in onions), clams, mussels, octopus salad, mixed fried fish, shrimp, and whole baked or grilled fish.  For a pasta course, it will typically be spaghetti with vongole (clams).

Here's a sample of our Feast of Seven Fishes from last year. Tomorrow we're not going to have so many courses, it might have to be renamed the Feast of Three Fishes at our house!

Mussels

Sardines ready to be breaded and fried

Spaghetti al Mare (mixed seafood)

Baby soft shelled crabs (moeche) at Rialto Market

Moeche, fried ready to eat


Topping off this enormous feast would be the favorite holiday sweet treats,  panettone and pandoro.

                                       Buon Natale!



Sunday, December 21, 2014

Countdown to Christmas - Italian Style! December 21


photo courtesy justagirlblog.com


Welcome back. We're at Day 21 (ventuno)

All of my countdown posts have been of things that, to me,  say Christmas is coming here in Venice. Today I have another food tradition for you, one that is particularly Northern Italian, and very much a custom in Venice.  Mostarda.





Mostarda, an Italian fruit and mustard condiment, typically served with boiled meats,  consists of fruits preserved in a syrup mixed with either powdered mustard seed or mustard essence. The one shown above  is in the window of one of my favorite shops,  Drogheria Mascari, a wonderful old grocery  located on Calle degli Spezieri in the San Polo district, very close to the Rialto bridge. 






photo courtesy www.imascari.com

When you see the mostarda bowls in the window of Drogheria Mascari, you know it's the beginning of the Christmas holiday season. 

Mostarda can also be purchased in jars in local grocery stores, or you can prepare it yourself at home.

Here's  a link to a typical Mostarda recipe, in case you are tempted to try for yourself.


http://italianfood.about.com/od/saucescondiments/ss/aa121305.htm


                                                             Buon Natale!

Saturday, December 13, 2014

Countdown to Christmas - Italian Style - December 13


                                             photo courtesy www.thebrisbanekids.com.au


Welcome back to Countdown to Chirstmas-Italian Style Day 13 (tredici).

I'm excited about sharing today's treat with you, as it's a family tradition in my family we've been keeping since as long as I can remember.  My mother always made Christmas cookies, starting around now, the middle of December. We always made the same cookies each year too. She'd make struffoli, a honey drenched little fritter sprinkled with powdered sugar or sprinkles. This is traditionally a holiday treat originating from Naples.

                               Honey Drenched Christmas Fritters: Struffoli
                                                                  photo courtesy food network.com

Here's a link to Mario Batali's recipe for struffoli http://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/mario-batali/honey-drenched-christmas-fritters-struffoli-recipe.html

Another traditional cookie made in my family is my grandmother's sugar cookies with cutouts.  I loved using the same cutouts every year- the old Santa, the reindeer, the tree, and the angel cutout.  Every year we'd leave a plate of these cookies out for Santa Claus on Christmas eve, along with a large glass of milk.

 Christmas Sugar Cookie Cutouts

                                                                          photo courtesy Betty Crocker.com

Here's a link to a sugar cookie recipe that is almost identical to the one my grandmother always used.
http://www.bettycrocker.com/recipes/easy-holiday-cutouts/8d58ef9e-0426-43d5-8d36-df247a3bed8b

When I got married and had my own children, I kept up the tradition of making Christmas cookies every holiday season with my girls.  We made my Grandmother's sugar cookie cutouts, thumbprint cookies filled with raspberry and apricot jam, oatmeal cookies and chocolate chip cookies.  I had a collection of favorite cutout shapes we kept for year.

This is a photo of my daughter Shannon at about 3 years old, up to her elbows in cookie dough and flour, working hard making cutouts for Christmas that year. 

Since I've moved to Italy, I still make holiday cookies.  This year I'll be making my old standards- my grandmother's sugar cookies, thumbprint cookies with raspberry and apricot jam, chocolate chip cookies, and shortbread cookies. I've found a new Italian cookie recipe I'm going to add to my collection this year, too. 

Anise Italian christmas cookies
Anise Italian Christmas cookie , photo courtesy www.Tasty-italian-cooking.com

I'm including the recipe here (click on the link below) in case you want to give them a try yourself.
http://www.tasty-italian-cooking.com/italian-christmas-cookies.html

Do you have family cookie traditions too? What are some of your favorites?  I'd love for you to share your favorite recipes too. 

Buon Natale!


P.S. Thank you so much for all the positive comments and email messages in recent days. I'm so happy everyone is enjoying my Advent Calendar series. Keep reading, please. We have a few more days in our countdown before we reach December 25!

Thursday, December 11, 2014

Countdown to Christmas- Italian Style! December 11


photo courtesy churchm.ag


I'm just going to begin this post for Day 11 (undici) with a photo:


Yes, this is ALL chocolate!  Every year the chocolatier creates a spectacular window display handmade, completely of chocolate. I make a point of passing by this shop each day early in December so I am sure to see the window as soon as it is ready. I think this year is over the top. Fantastic. 




Here are some close up details- chocolate, chocolate and more chocolate.


How yummy is this?


It's a chocolate fantasy! 

Any time of the year, not just Christmas, VizioVirtù is on my top ten list of places to seek out in Venice. It one of the best chocolate shops I've ever been in, and, being the chocolate lover I am, that includes a lot of chocolate shops! The second you open the door, you are in sensory overload. The smells hit your nose first. You are practically hypnotized by the smells as they draw you inside the door.  Then you look around, overwhelmed by the variety of chocolate surrounding you. This is the mother load of chocolate in Venice, and the young chocolatier behind the counter is probably Willie Wonka's cousin. 

Located at San Polo 2898/A, just steps away from both the San Toma Vaporetto stop and the Church of Santa Maria Gloriosa di Frari (the Frari), it's easy to find, and almost impossible to leave once you've been inside. 

Put it on your list if you are planning a visit to Venice. Just do it. Indulge!

Here's a link to their website, which includes directions as well as online shopping. Yes, I did say online shopping!































Wednesday, December 10, 2014

Countdown to Christmas- Italian Style! December 10


                                                                    photo courtesy theartfulcrafter.com


Welcome back to Day 10 (dieci) of my Countdown to Christmas, Italian Style.

Today I'm sharing the Christmas market at Campo San Polo with you. There are Christmas markets all over Italy, usually open from the beginning of December until Christmas eve. Some are more famous than others, such as the one in Piazza Navona in Rome and the one in Verona. They are very similar to the very famous German and Austrian Chriskindlmarts.  The little stalls sell food, drinks, and crafts by local artisans. They are a perfect way to spend a day wandering through the little Christmas village, and purchasing  unique Christmas presents.

Ours here in Campo San Polo is very small compared to the others, but none the less, it's a way in which we now Christmas is right around the corner in Venice. It's in the same campo as the skating rink  ( see Countdown to Christmas Day 9) so it's an ideal way to spend an hour or two while the kids are skating!







I can never resist a porchetta sandwich from this vendor!








Smoked mozzrella - scamorza

I hope you are enjoying a taste of Christmas in Venice.

For more information on Christmas markets in Italy click on this link http://www.christmasmarkets.com/Italy.html

If you've ever been to a Christmas market anywhere in Italy, I'd love for you to share your experience with m by posting a comment below.


Buon Natale!

Wednesday, December 3, 2014

Countdown to Christmas (Natale)- Italian Style! - December 3

                              Christmas Flag Pennant Advent Calendar
                                                      photo courtesy www.tipjunkie.com


The weather here in Venice today was brutal! Fierce wind and pounding rain almost non-stop. All day I kept thinking how much I would have liked a nice roaring fire to snuggle up in front of, some Christmas carols playing, and the smell of freshly baked Christmas cookies filling the house.

As I searched for the photo of the advent calendar I wanted to use for today's post, the one I chose seemed to fit my mood perfectly. I love it. If I had a fireplace, I might be very tempted to create this one for myself!  I had lots of possible choices for what would be behind my little door for today on my Advent Calendar. I decided on this, with a great deal of influence from one of my favorite Christmas carols.  You know the one.... "Chestnuts roasting on an open fire, Jack Frost nipping at your nose. Yule tide carols being sung by a choir, and folks dressed up like eskimos..."



My pick for Door Number  3  (tre) is Roasted Chestnuts.  You find these during the holiday season all over Italy. In Rome, you'll find the vendors in Piazza Navona, and across the street from the Spanish Steps. In Venice, they are only in one location, along the Strada Nova in the Cannaregio district, between the Cannaregio canal and the San Marcuolo area.

The word for chestnuts in Italian is castagna, however this usually refers to the fresh chestnuts sold by  vegetable vendors in the fall.  Caldarroste or arrostita are the words more frequently used for roasted chestnuts, which are sold by caldarrostaio , the vendors who roast the chestnuts on the street.
On a really chilly day, I love standing in front of the chestnut cart just to warm up a bit while I'm waiting for the vendor to put my chestnuts in a paper cone or sack.  The smells are enticing, the taste heavenly.  It's just not Christmas in Italy without roasted chestnuts!   I highly recommend you give them a try, if you haven't already

Buon Natale!

Monday, December 1, 2014

Countdown to Christmas (Natale) - Italian Style! December 1


        
                                                          photo courtesy www.theidearoom.net


As soon as the end of November rolls around, I find myself out shopping for Advent calendars. I've been a sucker for the kind with the little doors you open up, the ones with piece of  chocolate behind each door. There was never a year my two girls didn't receive one of those on December 1. I love starting the holiday season in this way!

This year, I've decided to create my own Advent calendar here on the blog. Each day leading up to Christmas I will post something I enjoy about Christmas in Italy. It will be a bit like opening one of those doors with me each day. 

Behind door Number One (Uno)  - Panettone


                           

When I spot Panettone in the grocery stores and bakeries around town, I know it's the beginning of the holiday season.  Panettone, served all over Italy, is a traditional Christmas sweet treat. It's a cross between a bread and a cake, and is sold with just raisins in it, or with raisins and candied fruits.  My favorite is with the candied fruits, but I'm not fussy, I'll take it either way.  I particularly like using Panettone for making french toast. Yummm! Delicious.

Nowadays, you can find Panettone sold in the United States too.  If you have never tasted Panettone, I recommend you purchase one this holiday season, and enjoy yours along with me!

And if you really feel like getting in touch with your Italian mama side, here's a link to Chef Mario Batali's panettone recipe



Buon Natale!

Friday, October 24, 2014

If it's Tuesday, it must be Mercatino Day on the Lido!

Recently I discovered the weekly market (mercatino) on the Lido.  While I love shopping at the Rialto market, this is something completely different. Vendors bring their trucks over to the Lido on the ferry boat early every Tuesday morning and set up outdoors along the lagoon.  Some of the trucks are designed to somehow magically unfold to become a shop, and other vendors set up tables alongside the truck and unpack everything onto the tables.  At the end of the morning ,every thing is packed back up again and the trucks leave the Lido.  It kind of reminds me of the circus coming to town!

There's no fish sold at the weekly mercatino, but there is plenty of just about everything else you can think of. It's become my go-to happy place now.  Besides the variety of merchandise to choose from, I am surrounded by only locals. No tour groups milling through the Lido mercatino!

I thought I'd give you a taste of what my Tuesday mornings are like.




I buy my fresh eggs from this guy now. I love that I can buy any number of eggs I want, even just one.  Large size eggs are 20 cents per egg. Well, 20 centesimi.


The linens truck sells towels, rugs, sheets, pillowcases, pillows.


There are several shoe stalls, with tables full of shoes for men, women and children.  Now you know where to find those green wellies at a good price if you need them when we have high water.



We're right smack in the middle of mushroom season here in Italy, and there has been a great selection to choose from at the mercatino. 




Candy! 



This is zucca (pumpkin), which is just about a staple in local vegetables. In Venice you will find pumpkin soup, pumpkin lasagna, pumpkin ravioli, pumpkin with pasta, even roast pumpkin. It's all delicious, something you should add to your "must try" list next time you are here.
The olive guy is one of my favorite stalls. 

Tomatoes was the focus of this photo, but look at the view behind the tomatoes. It's the lagoon, looking back towards Venice.  Who gets to shop in a place like this?  It's heavenly.




One of the more popular stalls are the flower vendors.  They sell not only potted plants but also a huge variety of vegetable plants.  My shopping cart always has some new plants in it to bring home each week.

The rosticceria is another of my favorites.  I have a tough time not overspending when I get to this stall. He sells  roast chicken,  roast pork, turkey, chicken legs, sausage, lots of varieties of lasagnas, fried shrimp, fried calamari, roasted potatoes, bacala and tons of other things. Locals are queued up at this truck all morning long. waiting to take home their Tuesday lunch.
Yes, this is the sock truck. They just sell socks. Kids socks, mens socks, womens socks, winter socks, hunting socks.  Socks. I love it.

While Venice is overrun with trinket shops selling 2 Euro masks and 1 Euro glass souvenirs, a little bit of the old traditional Venice still exists, just a few minutes away on a vaporetto. Tuesdays are one of my favorite days of the week.