Countdown to Christmas 2016, Venice Style- Day 7

                                                            


Ciao tutti!

Once again, I have to begin with a huge "Grazie mille". The response to this series has been overwhelming, the blog has record page views this week. I love reading all of your comments, so please keep them coming.

And I love the advent calendar I chose for today. I only wish they had included a little footstool or ladder so this cutie pie could reach the very top pockets! Being short myself, I can empathize with her.

Are we ready to crack open door #7?  I know I am!

Today we're visiting a spot very dear to my heart, close to where we used to live over in the Santa Croce district. But we're stopping just 1 bridge short of Santa Croce, ending in Campo Santa Margherita instead.  If you are a regular reader of my blog you are well aware of my attachment to this campo. If not, then you will be shortly!

Campo Santa Margherita, the heartbeat of the Dorsoduro district, is home of one of our favorite places, Imagina Cafe.  I know, I have been featuring artisans of Venice on my advent calendar posts so far, and you are probably scratching your heads wondering why I'm mentioning a cafe today instead.  I promised I'd focus on people in this Advent Calendar instead of things, and I can't think of any better place to introduce you to some of our favorite people.

Remember that TV show Cheers? The place where everybody knows your name? Well, in Venice, Imagina Cafe is that place. You come in the front door and there is always a happy "Ciao" for you, and a smile. It's your home away from home, your second family.  And trust me, when you are a foreigner trying to make a life in a country far, far from home, you need that. These people have been our second family since the day we arrived in Venice, 9 years ago.  

Here's Dominico and Ramona

and absent this morning while I was snapping photos were Stefano and Jacopo. (  recent photos courtesy of http://iaindeau.blogspot.it/)

If you want to get an up close and personal experience with the locals, this is the place to be. If you need a spot to duck away from a busy day full of Venice sightseeing, this is the place.  If you want one of THE best spots to people watch, grab a seat at one of the outdoor tables. If you want a drink and one of the BEST tramezzini (Venetian sandwich) in town, this is the spot.  

Their walls also host the work of local artists, so you're getting a little dose of culture as a bonus. (And you never know if there will be one of those local artists sitting at the next table- some famous, some not so much).

Oops...almost forgot....Imagina Cafe is home to some of the most decadent hot chocolate with Whipped cream. Must have. 


 And just say Karen sent you. 

Imagina Cafe, Rio Tera Canal, Dorsoduro 3126
http://www.imaginacafe.it/

The link to my Countdown to Christmas 2014 Day 7 blog, just click here

Countdown to Christmas 2016, Venice Style - Day 6

Ciao tutti!

One of my friends here in Venice came up with a very unique Advent calendar this year. I can't help myself, I have to share it here.  Thanks, Paolo. 

Brilliant idea, isn't it? 

Now, back to what is in store behind door #6. 

Today, I'm taking you on a walk to Rialto Bridge to meet a friend, Marco Jovon. Marco and his family have operated a jewellery shop on the bridge since 1934, first opened by Marco's grandfather. 

Walk into Gioielleria Eredi Jovon and you are walking into a unique part of Venice's past and present.  The tradition started by Marco's grandfather, continued on by his father Bruno is now proudly carried on by Marco, his mother Gabriella and the rest of the family. 

But Jovon's isn't just any ordinary jewellery shop. Marco hand carves exquisite one-of-a-kind cameos. At the shop you will find many works of art of Marco's own design, or you can request a custom design just for you.  

Marco and Giorgio, always ready to greet you with a smile.

The ancient tools for cameo engraving are still in use today.

Amazing, cameos all start from a shell similar to this one. 

photo www.eredijovon.com
One of Marco's latest creations, a blue cameo with woman at the Rialto bridge.

Inside the shop  a small cameo museum displays an unusual collection of family pieces. Jovon also sells other types of jewellery, including corals and Murano glass. 

I'm honored to be able to share another wonderfully talented Venetian artisan with you as part of my Countdown to Christmas, Venice style.  Hopefully, as you are walking over the famous Rialto bridge you will take a minute to stop in to meet Marco and his family, and perhaps take home a special cameo too. 

 You can find Gioielleria Eredi Jovon, San Marco 5325, on the Rialto Bridge.

For more information check out their website http://www.eredijovon.com/en/ or like their page on Facebook. Marco has written an ebook about cameos which is available for download on the website. 

To see my Countdown to Christmas 2014 - Day 6 post,  Just click here.  It's one of my favorite posts from that year - lucious cioccolata calda con panna (hot chocolate with creme)! Makes me want some right now. 

Today's advent calendar thanks to digsdigs.com.

Have a favorite post so far in this series?  Which Advent calendar did you like best? Suggestions?  I'd love to see your comments, so please leave a note for me in the comments section here. 

Ciao, Ciao!

Countdown to Christmas 2016, Venice Style- Day 5

Ciao tutti!

Welcome back!  First things first, I must thank each and every one of you for reading along as I countdown to Christmas. My blog has experienced record traffic this week over the last 4 days. Wow.  I am overwhelmed and just so grateful. 

I've been thinking what I would put into each of the little boxes of this advent calendar.  I'm pretty certain my choice would be a few delicious truffles in each box, each a day a different flavor. Wouldn't be too hard, I seem to love every kind of truffle I've ever had. Yes, truffles would do very nicely. 

In the previous days, I've introduced you to artisans who practice their crafts to keep Venetian traditions alive.  Today I'm introducing you to someone who is responsible for creating a Venetian landmark.  

Ready for today's reveal?  Drum roll, maestro, if you will.....

Meet Luigi Frizzo

We're back in Castello again today, at the  Libreria Acqua Alta. Luigi Frizzo's unusual and world famous haven for book lovers is tucked into an old warehouse in Campiello del Tintor, a few minutes off Campo Santa Maria Formosa. 

There's no bell for us to ring or "door" to use to gain access to this hidden paradise. Instead you just walk in the entrance, which has racks of  books, cards, maps and assorted postcards spilling out into the campiello.  Once you've made your way inside, you are usually greeted by both Luigi and a cat or two. 

While the shop itself, jammed to the rafters with new and used books, is something to marvel at, it's the owner who makes this place the gem that it is. Luigi opened the shop 15 yrs ago, and continues to add features to the shop each year. Books are stored in a variety of boats and bathtubs, even a gondola, in order to keep them up out of "Acqua Alta", high water.  Books that are unserviceable, such as old encyclopedias and waterlogged reference books, have been "re-used" to make stairs in the courtyard, or to line the walls of the rear entryway of the shop. 

While the water door is not the main entrance to the book shop, it probably is it's most recognizable feature. This doorway appears in countless photos all over the internet. Luigi's shop is listed as one of the 10 most unique bookshops in the world. After having visited the shop you'll understand exactly why it holds that distinction. 

Go ahead, I know you want to. "Follow the books".

This shop is all Luigi's creation-  his dream, his child,  his labor of love, his gift to Venice. 

Definitely put the Libreria Acqua Alta on your list of places to discover the next time you are in Venice. But don't just go to see the books. Please, go to meet Luigi. The man is a legend. And yes, the shop does get high water inside it!

Libreria Acqua Alta, Castello 5167 ,Campiello del Tintor. 

And once again, the link to Countdown to Christmas 2014- Day 5.  It's Italian Christmas carols!

Today's advent calendar thanks to Bloglovin'

A domani!!

Countdown to Christmas, Venice Style - Day 3

Ciao tutti!

I'm so excited about my choice for day #3 of the Venice Countdown to Christmas because there really and truly is some magic behind this door today, just as there is magic when you open the door to Roberto Comin's studio in Cannaregio.  Step inside and  you are in a fantasy world, a world full of whimsy and delight.  Roberto, a master craftsman, designs and creates puppets. 

Every part of the process, from the initial sketches to the final product, is done by Roberto and his family. They've been in business for 80 years, selling marionettes not only in Venice but worldwide.

Roberto invents a personality for each puppet which is reflected in the facial features and costume details. 

 If you visit Roberto's workshop, you'll find him bringing each of his characters to life for you as he demonstrates the mechanics of puppetry and introduces his cast of characters to you.

 

Yes, there are even Pinocchio's in Roberto's studio. He is, after all, quite a bit like the original Geppetto. 

You can find Roberto Comin's puppets in shops around Venice as well as on his website www.MarionettesinVenice.com. Roberto's studio is located at L'Isola di Pinocchio, Cannaregio 2417. It is possible to arrange visits to his workshop, details on the website. 

Most visitors to Venice see St. Mark's square, Rialto bridge, and the Grand Canal. If you take the time to  look behind closed doors, you will find some real treasures.  I hope my Countdown to Christmas Advent calendar will entice you to go seek out some of those doors. 


Last but not least - here's the link to Day 3 of my 2014 Countdown to Christmas. Chestnuts!  And I just saw some roasting over on Strada Nova in Cannaregio tonight!

Ciao tutti. A domani   (until tomorrow)


today's advent calendar from julegleder.blogspot.com

Countdown to Christmas - Italian Style ! December 24

photo courtesy www.dreamstime.com


We did it!  We made it through the whole month! Can you believe it's already Christmas Eve?
I can't. I have no idea where the time went.

Day 24 (ventiquattro)!  Vigilia di Natale! Christmas Eve. It's here!

In Italy, this is a BIG day! Fish markets are a madhouse in the morning, selling every variety of fish imaginable on this last opportunity to buy before the three big feast days. The fish mongers have been busy every day, they will need the time off over the holidays. I'm writing this at 10:50 pm Venice time, the Cenone della Vigilia has ended, and now, families are getting ready to go attend midnight mass at their local church.

Here in Venice, going to midnight mass at St. Mark's Basilica is a popular Christmas tradition. People queue up in the cold about 45 minutes early, in order to be able to get a seat in the packed Basilica. St. Mark's,  one of the most important churches in the city, was completed in 832 and consecrated in 1085 after the city obtained the remains of Saint Mark which are in a tomb at the altar.

Attending midnight mass here will leave you near speechless. The insides of the Basilica are encrusted with glass tiled mosaics backed with gold leaf. On a normal day, viewing the inside is 

special, on this holiday it is spectacular. When the Basilica is awash in lights the mosaics

sparkle like millions of twinkling stars in the heavens.

   I hope my posts over the last 24 days spotlighting my favorite things about  Christmas in Venice  inspires you to put a holiday trip to Venice on your list of must-do's.

                                                               Buon Natale!

Countdown to Christmas - Italian Style! December 23

photo courtesy felt.co.nz

We are ALMOST to the end! Welcome back for Countdown to Christmas- Italian Style Day 23 (ventitre).

Everyone I know, including myself, was running around today shopping for all the ingredients they need to make the traditional Cenone della Vigilia or Christmas Eve dinner.

The word Cenone means big dinner in Italian, and is usually used when referring to the Christmas Eve or New Year's Eve feast. The Christmas Eve meal is also commonly called the Feast of Seven Fishes, because during this meal you would eat seven different types of fish or shellfish. They can be seven different courses, or seven fishes spread out over several courses, as seven different fishes are used during the meal.

The reason we eat seven different fishes or seven fish courses is because seven is the number that is repeated most often in the Bible. There is the Seven deadly sins, the seven sacrements, it took seven days for Joseph and Mary to reach Bethlehem, it took 7 days for the creation. I know you can think of even more examples of seven - the seven hills of Rome, seven wonders of the world. Essentially, the feast of seven fishes can refer to just about anything referencing seven and you are good to go.

Fish was traditionally eaten to purify the body and prepare for the big feast that is to come on Christmas Day.  In Italy, the next few days are huge eating events. We have not only the Cenone on Christmas Eve, then there is another big meal on Christmas Day, followed by Santo Stefano Day on December 26 and even more eating.

The Rialto fish market was packed this morning as locals purchased all the fish and shellfish they would need for the coming days.While the dishes served may vary from region to region throughout Italy,   eel , usually grilled or fried, is the one dish you will find in common whether you are in the North or way down South in the boot.

                                                                   At the Rialto Fish Market

In the Venice area, most likely you will find Bacala (made from Salt Cod), Sarde and saor (fried sardines marinated in onions), clams, mussels, octopus salad, mixed fried fish, shrimp, and whole baked or grilled fish.  For a pasta course, it will typically be spaghetti with vongole (clams).

Here's a sample of our Feast of Seven Fishes from last year. Tomorrow we're not going to have so many courses, it might have to be renamed the Feast of Three Fishes at our house!

Mussels

Sardines ready to be breaded and fried

Spaghetti al Mare (mixed seafood)

Baby soft shelled crabs (moeche) at Rialto Market

Moeche, fried ready to eat

Topping off this enormous feast would be the favorite holiday sweet treats,  panettone and pandoro.

                                       Buon Natale!

Countdown to Christmas - Italian Style! December 21

photo courtesy justagirlblog.com


Welcome back. We're at Day 21 (ventuno)

All of my countdown posts have been of things that, to me,  say Christmas is coming here in Venice. Today I have another food tradition for you, one that is particularly Northern Italian, and very much a custom in Venice.  Mostarda.

Mostarda, an Italian fruit and mustard condiment, typically served with boiled meats,  consists of fruits preserved in a syrup mixed with either powdered mustard seed or mustard essence. The one shown above  is in the window of one of my favorite shops,  Drogheria Mascari, a wonderful old grocery  located on Calle degli Spezieri in the San Polo district, very close to the Rialto bridge. 

photo courtesy www.imascari.com

When you see the mostarda bowls in the window of Drogheria Mascari, you know it's the beginning of the Christmas holiday season. 

Mostarda can also be purchased in jars in local grocery stores, or you can prepare it yourself at home.

Here's  a link to a typical Mostarda recipe, in case you are tempted to try for yourself.


http://italianfood.about.com/od/saucescondiments/ss/aa121305.htm

                                                             Buon Natale!

Countdown to Christmas - Italian style - December 20

photo courtesy www.newford.org.uk


Day 20 (venti)!

Believe it or not, I selected each of the Advent Calendars I was going to feature on these blogs way back on December 1. I chose the calendars, and assigned them each to a day of the month.  I got a huge chuckle today when I opened the file for today's blog and took a look at this calendar, because what is behind door number 20 is the annual Babbo Natale Regata in Venice!

How perfect is that! Babbo's for the Babbo Natale Regata.  What a great coincidence.

The Babbo Natale Regata is one of my favorite events of the season in Venice.

For the last several years, on the last saturday before Christmas, the city holds a special regata on the Grand Canal.  The requirement for anyone rowing in the regata, either as a competitor or one of the boats in the corteo (parade) is that everyone must wear a Santa Claus (Babbo Natale) costume. I

Usually, I take up a spot near San Zaccaria vaporetto stop to watch all the Santas rowing. This year, I got to don one of those fantastic costumes myself!  The Pink Lionesses in Venice (of which I am now a member), suited up at the Bucintoro rowing club along the Zattere.

 Here we are waiting to get into the dragonboat ( our sleigh for today's regata)

 Loading up all the Babbe (lady Babbo Natale's) into the boat

                    100 Babbos (technically that would be Babbi) rowing down the Grand Canal on a                                                                  beautiful sunny December morning.

Even the boats are decorated!

We've all arrived at Ca'Foscari.  A very happy bunch of Babbi !

Festive boats!

                                        Buon Natale!