Winding up 2015 in Venice

As 2015 wound down, I spent some time wandering the city taking photos of this year's holiday lights. For the first time in as long as we can remember, Campo San Barnaba and the nearby streets were lit up even over the canal. I love the reflections!

Even the boys on the vegetable barge at Ponte dei Pugni got into the holiday spirit donning their Babbo Natale suits to wear to work. 

As in past years, St. Mark's square is ablaze in lights, adding to the festive atmosphere in Venice during the holiday season. 

The Christmas tree next to the Basilica was gorgeous this year.  I particularly enjoyed the ornaments- all simple plaques displaying  heartfelt holiday sentiments from schools, organizations and shops in the city. 

Holiday lights along  Calle Lunga San Marco

Sadly, the Rialto bridge is dark this year. I suspect  the multi-year restoration project currently underway on the bridge has something to do with why lights weren't strung on the outside of the bridge and along the center strada. Adjacent streets on the San Marco side of the bridge were lit up, though. 

It wouldn't be Natale without numerous sightings of Babbo Natale all around Venice.  This one inside the window caught my eye. I'm wondering if he was looking for a way out?

All over Italy, right before Christmas the traditional presepi, nativity scenes, make their appearance  They are in every church and almost every household. This year, as usual, the presepe at Chiesa di Santa Maria Glorioso dei Frari (the Frari, the Venetian shortcut), is exceptional. My photo above is only one tiny portion of it, it is much too large to get into one photo. Figures are moving, cows and sheep are mooing and baa-ing, there is even a volcano erupting at intervals in the background. It wouldn't be Natale without getting into a few churches to see what they have on display in their presepe. 

And our tree is up in Venice again this year. From our house to yours, Happy Holidays and Happy New Year!

Buon Anno Nuovo! Auguri!

Countdown to Christmas - Italian Style! December 23

photo courtesy felt.co.nz

We are ALMOST to the end! Welcome back for Countdown to Christmas- Italian Style Day 23 (ventitre).

Everyone I know, including myself, was running around today shopping for all the ingredients they need to make the traditional Cenone della Vigilia or Christmas Eve dinner.

The word Cenone means big dinner in Italian, and is usually used when referring to the Christmas Eve or New Year's Eve feast. The Christmas Eve meal is also commonly called the Feast of Seven Fishes, because during this meal you would eat seven different types of fish or shellfish. They can be seven different courses, or seven fishes spread out over several courses, as seven different fishes are used during the meal.

The reason we eat seven different fishes or seven fish courses is because seven is the number that is repeated most often in the Bible. There is the Seven deadly sins, the seven sacrements, it took seven days for Joseph and Mary to reach Bethlehem, it took 7 days for the creation. I know you can think of even more examples of seven - the seven hills of Rome, seven wonders of the world. Essentially, the feast of seven fishes can refer to just about anything referencing seven and you are good to go.

Fish was traditionally eaten to purify the body and prepare for the big feast that is to come on Christmas Day.  In Italy, the next few days are huge eating events. We have not only the Cenone on Christmas Eve, then there is another big meal on Christmas Day, followed by Santo Stefano Day on December 26 and even more eating.

The Rialto fish market was packed this morning as locals purchased all the fish and shellfish they would need for the coming days.While the dishes served may vary from region to region throughout Italy,   eel , usually grilled or fried, is the one dish you will find in common whether you are in the North or way down South in the boot.

                                                                   At the Rialto Fish Market

In the Venice area, most likely you will find Bacala (made from Salt Cod), Sarde and saor (fried sardines marinated in onions), clams, mussels, octopus salad, mixed fried fish, shrimp, and whole baked or grilled fish.  For a pasta course, it will typically be spaghetti with vongole (clams).

Here's a sample of our Feast of Seven Fishes from last year. Tomorrow we're not going to have so many courses, it might have to be renamed the Feast of Three Fishes at our house!

Mussels

Sardines ready to be breaded and fried

Spaghetti al Mare (mixed seafood)

Baby soft shelled crabs (moeche) at Rialto Market

Moeche, fried ready to eat

Topping off this enormous feast would be the favorite holiday sweet treats,  panettone and pandoro.

                                       Buon Natale!

Countdown to Christmas - Italian style - December 20

photo courtesy www.newford.org.uk


Day 20 (venti)!

Believe it or not, I selected each of the Advent Calendars I was going to feature on these blogs way back on December 1. I chose the calendars, and assigned them each to a day of the month.  I got a huge chuckle today when I opened the file for today's blog and took a look at this calendar, because what is behind door number 20 is the annual Babbo Natale Regata in Venice!

How perfect is that! Babbo's for the Babbo Natale Regata.  What a great coincidence.

The Babbo Natale Regata is one of my favorite events of the season in Venice.

For the last several years, on the last saturday before Christmas, the city holds a special regata on the Grand Canal.  The requirement for anyone rowing in the regata, either as a competitor or one of the boats in the corteo (parade) is that everyone must wear a Santa Claus (Babbo Natale) costume. I

Usually, I take up a spot near San Zaccaria vaporetto stop to watch all the Santas rowing. This year, I got to don one of those fantastic costumes myself!  The Pink Lionesses in Venice (of which I am now a member), suited up at the Bucintoro rowing club along the Zattere.

 Here we are waiting to get into the dragonboat ( our sleigh for today's regata)

 Loading up all the Babbe (lady Babbo Natale's) into the boat

                    100 Babbos (technically that would be Babbi) rowing down the Grand Canal on a                                                                  beautiful sunny December morning.

Even the boats are decorated!

We've all arrived at Ca'Foscari.  A very happy bunch of Babbi !

Festive boats!

                                        Buon Natale!

Countdown to Christmas- Italian Style! December 17

photo courtesy www.claphamterrace.info


Day 17 (diciasette) !!  We're just about a week away from Christmas. I can't believe this month has gone by so quickly.

The Advent Calendar I selected for today is probably my favorite. It's exactly like the ones I used to buy every year for my two little girls, with the little windows you open up each day revealing a small piece of chocolate.  I miss this tradition in our house!

The slice of life in Venice during Christmas time that I've decided to share today is Luna Park! If you've been to Venice over the holidays before, you probably are familiar with it. Luna Park is equivalent to a carnival, with rides, and booths for games and food. They are common throughout Italy, usually showing up in a city to coincide with a big festival. In Venice, Luna Park starts around the middle of December and runs through February 1.


The big trucks arrive on a ferry, and get off loaded along the fondamenta near the Public Garden (Giardini) in Castello. Luna Park stretches between Via Garibaldi and the Giardini vaporetto stop. This year, Luna Park is a bit larger than last year. I noticed several more rides and a few more games.

There is a bumper cars for little kids, and also a regular bumper cars booth. 

I think cotton candy (zucchero filato) is a universal standard for carnival food. There are also a few booths selling hot frittelle, nutella crepes, popcorn and lots of candies and nuts. 

The long skinny colored candies are licorice, in various flavors (strawberry, apple, coca cola etc.). Someone at our house (not me) cannot resist the candied pecans. 

Yes, even in Italy there are game booths.

Mike has vowed to win this huge gorilla for me this year!  

This bungee jumping thing is a big hit every year. I just love the Babbo Natale's way up on the top of it!

The only roller coaster is one for little kids. I love that the cars are made to look like a caterpillar. This is a very popular ride here at Luna Park.

It's a sure sign of Christmas in Venice when Luna Park opens up!

                                     Buon Natale!

Countdown to Christmas- Italian Style! December 14

photo courtesy cupcakeswithsprinkles.blogspot.com


Day 14 (quattordici)!!!

I love the Advent calendar I selected for today. Which has been your favorite calendar so far?  And which has been your favorite Countdown blog?  I have my own personal choices, but I would love to hear yours! Please leave your comments for me. I can't wait to read them.

I'm sharing holiday lights at the Rialto with you today. These are one of my very favorite things about December in Venice. I think we anticipate the days when we see the lights have been strung  in the calles (little streets) between St. Marks and  the Rialto bridge, and on the bridge. It's an absolutely spectacular sight.

The Rialto bridge lit with holiday lights make this very special place even more special. 

At the middle of the bridge you'll find the winged lion, symbol of Venice, in lights. 

Auguri is the Italian word for Best Wishes.  It's used for occasions when you want to congratulate someone, such as after the birth of a baby, or a birthday or graduation.  It is also used during Christmas and New Years.  This particular sign is above a shop in Campo San Bartolomeo, near the bottom of the Rialto bridge.

As you can tell from these photos, Venice is definitely getting ready for the holidays.  Are you?

Buon Natale!

Countdown to Christmas - Italian Style - December 13

                                             photo courtesy www.thebrisbanekids.com.au


Welcome back to Countdown to Chirstmas-Italian Style Day 13 (tredici).

I'm excited about sharing today's treat with you, as it's a family tradition in my family we've been keeping since as long as I can remember.  My mother always made Christmas cookies, starting around now, the middle of December. We always made the same cookies each year too. She'd make struffoli, a honey drenched little fritter sprinkled with powdered sugar or sprinkles. This is traditionally a holiday treat originating from Naples.

                               
                                                                  photo courtesy food network.com

Here's a link to Mario Batali's recipe for struffoli http://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/mario-batali/honey-drenched-christmas-fritters-struffoli-recipe.html

Another traditional cookie made in my family is my grandmother's sugar cookies with cutouts.  I loved using the same cutouts every year- the old Santa, the reindeer, the tree, and the angel cutout.  Every year we'd leave a plate of these cookies out for Santa Claus on Christmas eve, along with a large glass of milk.

 

                                                                          photo courtesy Betty Crocker.com

Here's a link to a sugar cookie recipe that is almost identical to the one my grandmother always used.
http://www.bettycrocker.com/recipes/easy-holiday-cutouts/8d58ef9e-0426-43d5-8d36-df247a3bed8b

When I got married and had my own children, I kept up the tradition of making Christmas cookies every holiday season with my girls.  We made my Grandmother's sugar cookie cutouts, thumbprint cookies filled with raspberry and apricot jam, oatmeal cookies and chocolate chip cookies.  I had a collection of favorite cutout shapes we kept for year.

This is a photo of my daughter Shannon at about 3 years old, up to her elbows in cookie dough and flour, working hard making cutouts for Christmas that year. 

Since I've moved to Italy, I still make holiday cookies.  This year I'll be making my old standards- my grandmother's sugar cookies, thumbprint cookies with raspberry and apricot jam, chocolate chip cookies, and shortbread cookies. I've found a new Italian cookie recipe I'm going to add to my collection this year, too. 

Anise Italian Christmas cookie , photo courtesy www.Tasty-italian-cooking.com

I'm including the recipe here (click on the link below) in case you want to give them a try yourself.

http://www.tasty-italian-cooking.com/italian-christmas-cookies.html

Do you have family cookie traditions too? What are some of your favorites?  I'd love for you to share your favorite recipes too. 

Buon Natale!

P.S. Thank you so much for all the positive comments and email messages in recent days. I'm so happy everyone is enjoying my Advent Calendar series. Keep reading, please. We have a few more days in our countdown before we reach December 25!