Ferragosto !!!!

Today, August 15, is officially Ferragosto.  This Italian holiday started centuries ago by Emperor Augustus when he declared the whole month, named after himself,  as a holiday filled with all sorts of merriment to celebrate the summer harvest.  Later, August 15 became a religious holiday celebrating the assumption of Mary into heaven.

Italians celebate Ferrogosto in a big way- they close shops and restaurants the end of July and head off to the beaches and the mountains for the month. Great way to escape the heat!

As an American living in Italy, I've had some difficulty wrapping my head around how the whole country can take the whole month off when it is the height of tourist season. Isn't there money to be made??  Who cares, it's vacation time.

This week, I imposed my own Ferragosto and took off for the Lido each day. Surprised even myself- I seem to be a little more Italian this summer! Finally, I get it.

Here's a view from my chaise lounge at B.each on the Lido.  In a few minutes, my beach bag and I will be headed to Piazzale Roma to catch the #6 boat to Lido.  Upon arriving, I'll make the walk down S.M. Elisabetta, past all the shops selling beach necessities along with all the other beach goers and take up my spot on the sand for the day.

Happy Ferrogosto, tutti!

Redentore 2012 !!!

It's been HOT,  and we've been busy, busy, busy, but NOT too busy to celebrate Redentore!!!  As you may know already, Festa della Redentore is probably the biggest festival in town. Venetians have been celebrating this holiday since 1577, first held to celebrate the end of the terrible plague years and the construction of the Church of the Redentore (the Redeemer). The holiday begins with a procession across the Giudecca canal on a temporary pontoon bridge led by the Patriarch of Venice.  A special mass is held in the church, followed by merriment and LOTS of food consumed canal-side, in anticipation of the evening's fireworks which commence at 11:30 pm. The weekend long celebration ends the following day with gondola races in Giudecca canal. 

We waited along with the rest of Venice, it seems, alongside the fondamenta, at 7pm on Saturday evening waiting the opening of the bridge.  Just before 7 we caught a glimpse of the new Patriarch Francesco Moraglia arrive by boat and make his way to the area on the bridge where Mayor Orsoni and a crowd of others awaited him. The crowd got impatient as 7pm came and went- everyone wanted to get across the bridge!  Finally, almost 10 minutes later, the red, green and white ribbon was cut and the masses made their way across to the foot of the Redentore church.

I caught a few minutes of the mayor's speech given at the doorway of the Redentore just prior to the mass. We didn't attend mass, instead we stopped at a vendor's stall along the street to buy some candied pecans, then made our way down the fondamenta towards the other church, the Zitelle, on our way to our destination for the evening- the home of our friend Caterina and her family, who own an old squero (gondola boat yard) on Giudecca.

We couldn't have asked for a better location to spend this special event!  In previous years we've sat along the street along the Giudecca to watch the fireworks, and always wished we could be included in some family's celebration too. We'd always been envious, watching from afar, as the families and groups of friends gathered along the waterfront to celebrate, eating vast quantities of food! This year we got to experience a Redentore like we had always hoped for- and alot more!

We all brought food to share, and there was no shortage of either food or drink. However, the highlights of the evening were the bovoletti ( small snails) made by Caterina's mom, and the tiramisu made by Caterina herself!

Here's Caterina's dad enjoying the last yummy morsels of tiramisu!

Dinner being consumed, we made our way back to the fondamenta just in time to catch the first of the fireworks going off. We were in a great location, just ahead of the vaporetto dock at Zittele.  Way better location than we'd had in previous years.  Normally, there are thousands and thousands of boats decorated with paper flowers and lanterns loaded with people moored in the lagoon in front of the temporary bridge. This year, the city decided to pass a new regulation banning the use of transport boats to hold people during this celebration, and announced fines would be levied for any violations.  So- far fewer boats this year. A little disappointing, unfortunately.

Not only was our location better, the fireworks display was the best at Redentore we've seen. Absolutely spectacular!  I've said this before, and I will say it again now- no one does fireworks like the Italians do!  This was pyrotechnics at it's finest.  Somewhere around 2 am we made our way back home amidst throngs of happy Venetians, and a very happy Karen.

The Redentore celebration continues the next day- and so did I.  I met up with Caterina and her mom to attend the Pesca di Beneficenza at the Redentore church. But first, we stopped into the church to catch a bit of mass. Pesca di Beneficenza is a lottery type game, proceeds going to the church. It was explained to me that everyone wins something, and some of the prizes are very good.  I handed over my 5 Euros, for which I received 5 little pieces of paper all rolled up.  With great anticipation and tickets in hand, we walked into the next building where all the prizes are lined up on shelves for display. Caterina and her mom explained the process- first, I unroll all my little pieces of paper. On each piece is either a number or a word. I hand over the papers to the kids running the booth and they hand over my gifts. My little pieces of paper all had words on them - not good, Caterina's mom tells me!  I came away with a plastic spaghetti strainer!!!!  Caterina got a bottle of white wine.  Proof positive that I have no luck!

The temporary pontoon bridge is up all day Sunday as well, for people to enjoy walking back and forth.  Sunday afternoon Mike and I were invited to have lunch with Caterina's family again.  Her mom made a delicious spaghetti with mussels, after which we had snails, a variety of cheeses, prosciutto, melon, bread, and fresh peaches. Her dad, Guido, broke out the grappa and Fernet Branca, an herbal liqueur that tastes like bad cough medicine and weeds, (myrhh, cardmom, camomile, aloe, rhubarb and saffron).  Good lord, how could anyone drink this????

Last event of the big weekend is a series of regattas on the Giudecca canal, beginning with a race for children in twin oared pupparini's, ending with two oared gondola races.

All in all , Redentore 2012 was the perfect weekend. Lots of good food, surrounded by good friends and family. It's already marked on my calendar for next year!

Dear O's and Raven's - I still love you, but I'm watching soccer now

Soccer is a big thing over here. There is just no way I can get around it, but I admit, I have tried. I have tried (a few times) to watch and understand the game, but the thrill has alluded me. I've tried to avoid it, but there is  no way that is  possible. People in my neighborhood watch soccer matches (calcio) outside in Campo Santa Margherita. Everyone is outside screaming and yelling during all the matches, and when this happens, I have actually started to feel a little left out of things. The solution was to try a little bit harder.

The whole world is watching the Euro2012 matches, and so I joined in. I made sure I was aware of which teams were playing who, and kept track of how Italy was doing.  Last night, being the semifinals between Germany and Italy, I even watched the entire match.

I surprised myself- I learned a little about the game. By mid game, I was wishing I had painted my face green, white and red! Already by half-time (hmm, is that what it's called?) Italy had scored 2 goals both by Mario Balotelli.  If Mario Balotelli was not already a household word all over Italy before last night, it certainly is this morning. Even I now know who he is! I would not be surprised if this guy is short listed for sainthood this week.

Italy held off Germany for the entire match, right up until the last 4 minutes of - what was that, overtime? We didn't understand how extra time was added on, and it seemed unfortunate, since the score was 0-2 Italy by the end of regular time.  Germany squeaked in a goal, ending the game at 1-2.

Italy's Mario Balotelli - photo by ANSA

Italy will face off against Spain in the finals on Sunday. I WILL be watching. 

First festa of the season- Festa di Sant'Antonio

Last week it was the Festa di Sant'Antonio at Campo San Francesco della Vigna over in Castello, the first festa of the 2012 season. I love local festivals here in Italy. They remind me of Fireman's Carnivals back in the US, but on a smaller scale. In Venice, the local churches and associations sponsor a celebration (festa) in the neighborhood campo. During the festa, the locals all pitch in to cook food and sell drinks to raise money for the church. 

It was a beautiful evening last Friday when Mike and I walked over to Castello to catch the last night of the Sant'Antonio festival.  Everyone in Castello must have had the same idea, because the line at the Cassa (where you pay for your food) was huge, and moving VERY slowly. After a long long wait, it was our turn. We made our choices, paid the woman behind the counter, and were handed several colorful pieces of paper coupons. 

Next we had to queue up in the even longer food line, to wait our turn to order our food at the food tent. I love watching the action inside the food tents at these events. Old men are manning the grills and deep fryers, women are making pasta, and the younger people are running back and forth from the counter to the back area filling orders.  Mike ran to the beer tent to grab us something cold to drink while we waited, and waited, and waited. 

For the rest of the people around us, waiting in the food line was half the party. They all seemed to know each other. Conversations were buzzing in all directions around me.  As I stand in line, I wonder if someday I will be part of the conversations too. Someday!

 This guy was running all over the place- back at the grills, out at the tables. He was everywhere at once, and busy laughing and visiting with everyone as he passed by.

 Busy at the beer/wine tent!

 The crowd at San Francesco della Vigna, and the bandstand. Different musical groups were on the lineup each night. 

 Even the local dogs get to enjoy Festa di Sant'Antonio

 San Francesco della Vigna

No Ska-J performances this week, unfortunately. I'm always on the lookout though. Hopefully they will be back at the San Giacomo dell'Orio festival later in the summer.

Next festa on the calendar-  Giovanni Bragora also in Castello June 20-24.  No Ska J on their lineup either :(

Venice Weather

We've had our share of strange weather this year - unusually low tides, freezing canals, aftershocks from all the earthquakes in the vicinity (including another one on Sunday morning), but I think today we've hit a high point. Around noon today a tornado touched down on Sant'Erasmo and Certosa islands, just off of Venice. 

  (Photo courtesy Venessia today) Damage to house on Sant Erasmo

(Photo courtesy Venessia.com)  A view of the twister from St. Mark's square around noon today. I can only imagine what it must have been like to see this firsthand. I was over near Campo Santa Maria Formosa at the time with no view over the water.  I consider myself lucky, I might have been a bit panic ridden had I witnessed this!

Another view of today's tornado (photo courtesy Net1News)

The weather has been freaky to say the least!  Recently we've felt so many earthquake aftershocks we've become a bit too nonchalant at our house. Sunday morning when I went running to find Mike when the chandelier in the living room was rocking back and forth, he commented that it was not another shock, but rather the upstairs neighbors exercising. On Monday, talking with friends in Mestre I discovered it was in fact an aftershock that they also felt at their apartments. Next time, I'm sticking to my guns!

New sculpture on Murano

The other day I had a chance to wander over on Murano with friends for a few hours.  The magic the Murano glassblowers create never ceases to amaze me, and this day was no different.  As I turned a corner on the street leading to the Faro vaporetto stop, I came face to face with the newest sculpture in the square.

I loved it instantly. I wasn't particularly keen on the sculpture it replaced- a large glass bride done in all whites and silvers. But this one- it's perfect. Sheer magic. It instantly reminded me of the intensely hot glowing fires I see in the kilns used in all the glass foundrys.

Now I need to figure out when to get back to Murano at night, to see this one lit up.

Earthquake #2

About 9am this morning, a second earthquake magnitude of 5.8 shook all of Venice.  Once again, Modena was the epicenter.  This time, we were left with a few reminders- a statue in the garden near Piazzale Roma fell to the ground and shattered.  (photo courtesy of Comune di Venezia)

In the photo, you can see the statue on the left side of the gate still intact. It's twin, on the right side, is no more.

In our apartment, some cracks in the walls are much more pronounced after this earthquake, and some paint fell from the ceiling in one of the bedrooms. Nothing major, but  at the same time, it's a reminder that we were lucky- this time. There were two more aftershocks later in the day, both almost as strong as the first tremors. 15 people are reported dead.  

I have to say that the first time we felt the apartment moving up and down under our feet we were thinking "Wow, this is a first for us. Pretty cool."   After this second event and several aftershocks,  we're not so cavalier.  We've thought about our escape route very carefully and are much more prepared. I'm not thinking "Oh, it will never happen to us here" anymore.

As I finish writing this blog, I'm hoping for an earthquake-less night in Italy. 

Another Earthquake- at 4am this morning

Yes, another earthquake!  We woke around 4am when the bed, and everything around us was shaking. We quickly threw on some clothes and headed outdoors into the garden. Our neighbors were all up, hanging out their windows talking to each other.  I can only tell you it is a very odd sensation to feel this very old building shake and move under your feet!

We've felt a couple of other tremors in the past year or so, but nothing this strong or this long lasting. I dreaded hearing the news this morning, fearing another disaster similar - or worse- to the earthquake suffered in L'Aquila three years ago.

The aftershock we felt about 10 minutes later was minor, but disturbing none the less.

Within minutes, literally a minute or two of when the quake was felt, people in the Venice area were posting on Facebook, asking if anyone else felt it and was everyone ok.  Fascinating use of Facebook!

This mornings news reveals the quake hit northwest of Bologna, and so far 3 deaths reported, but a fair amount of damage to some historic buildings in the area of Modena.

Americas Cup- Venice 2012

The weather was perfect Friday afternoon, I had a few hours free, and the Americas Cup quarter finals were being held in the lagoon between St. Mark's and Lido that afternoon. Sounded like the ideal convergence of essential elements to me, so off we went, fully expecting to have to battle the crowds at San Marco all the way.

My friend Caterina and I disembarked the vaporetto at Valleresso only to be pleasantly surprised- no mobs!  Walking further, still no mobs.  Our plan was to  grab a light lunch in the vicinity of Giardini, then find a spot along the water to catch the race.

It's always an incredible sight to see the lagoon completely void of boat traffic.  The whole area was empty, then all of a sudden from off to the left between Sant' Elena and Lido came the boats. The New Zealand team was first, quite a bit in the lead, then 4 more close together. Breathtaking!

Here are a few shots of the action -

The Italian boat, Luna Rossa came in first in Friday afternoon's events. Unfortunately Team Oracle did  not do so well.

I was also eager to spend a little time inside the Arsenale, at the Americas Cup Village. In all my time in Venice, I had not yet been inside there. The place is enormous! I can only imagine what this area was like bustling with people making galleys in Venice's heyday. During the Americas Cup, this is the team base and also open to the public, with many displays and food booths. In the evenings, other special events are being held here.

 Rising out of the large basin was this enormous stand where  the race was being shown on a large screen.  There is a row of stalls set up selling beer, wine, champagne, panini's, pizza and fritto misto. I wished we had known about this, because it was relatively empty, no crowds, it would have been the perfect viewing spot for Mike to enjoy some of the race also!

I'm thinking that perhaps this was a once in my lifetime event to be able to view the Americas cup in person. Another perfect day in Venice!

A Karen by any other name....

A few weeks ago, I noticed I was hearing quite a lot of "Ciao, Mike" being yelled out as we walked around the city. Shopkeepers, baristas, gondoliers, fish mongers- they are all shouting greetings to my husband. I love that we are feeling like part of the neighborhood, however, truth be told, I was a little jealous that I wasn't hearing "Ciao, Karen" as often.

Shortly after this, Mike and I were in a local cafe in Campo Santa Margherita a little after lunch when our local fish mongers walked in for a drink. First thing they yelled when they stepped through the door was "Ciao, Mike!"  When they approached our table, I asked them their names. I don't know why, but after all this time, neither Mike nor I knew them. They introduced themselves as Paolo, Riccardo and Gianni. In return, I told them my name is Karen. Paolo says back "Carol".  Mike and I both said, "No, it's KAREN".  "Oh, Ok,... Carol", Paolo returned.  We gave up.

Every time I pass through Campo Santa Margherita since that afternoon, Paolo yells out "Ciao, Carol!". Even if I am just turning the corner, way down the campo, he lets out a loud "Ciao, Carol".   We've tried correcting him, but to him, I am Carol, no matter what.

This morning, as I made my way to the vaporetto at Ca'Rezzonico the campo was still relatively empty, with just the vegetable and fish mongers setting up. When Paolo looked up and saw me coming, he yelled out "Ciao, Carol!  I snapped a photo just as he started singing "Carol, Carol, Carol.....". Really, he was singing. I wish I had thought to record him!

I smiled the whole rest of my walk to the vaporetto, and the Cheers theme song came to mind,
"You want to go where everybody knows your name" .  I'm there.