Celebrating the Festa de San Martino

Today is the Festa di San Martino - St. Martin's Day. In Venice this festa is a big, big deal, and over the years it has become one of my favorite celebrations every November.  I am very fortunate that I live not far from Campo San Martino and the Chiesa di San Martino, and get a constant reminder of this saint whenever I'm passing by.

St. Martin's story goes something like this: In the 4th century, Saint Martin met a starving, freezing beggar at the gates of the city of Amiens. He cut his cloak in two with his sword and gave half to the man. For that reason, Martin is a saint associated with the poor. It is also said that at the moment he tore his cloak, the sun came out and that is why an Indian summer here is known as an estate di san Martino.The 11th November is the festa of this favorite saint and traditionally the day when the novello [new] wine is opened.

San Martino bas relief on the wall of the Church of San Martino, Castello

Every November 11 the children of Venice re-enact St. Martin by dressing up in red cloaks and "Burger King" style crowns, banging on their mother's pots and pans while parading through their neighborhoods. Stops are made at the local shops canvassing for goodies. Sort of like Halloween but everyone dresses the same. 

San Martino cookies line the windows of every bakery in town starting a couple of weeks before the holiday. How could you not love San Martino day, when you knew there would be some fabulous cookie waiting for you at home? 

Have you picked the one going home with you this year? 

I noticed my local hardware store was selling cookie molds for every size San Martino day horse cookie you could imagine, from a grand one over a foot tall to very tiny individual ones. Perfect if you love making cookies. 

Should you find yourself in the neighborhood of Campo San Martino this weekend, here's the list of activities going on during the festa. Tomorrow between 4pm-8:30 there will be food and wine served in the campo. Look for me there!

Happy Festa de San Martino!

What a difference a year makes!

Ciao, tutti!

I'm thinking I need to dedicate this blog to my Italian teacher, Francesca, who works with me tirelessly every week.  

One year ago, I had a conversation on the beach at Lido with the woman I have nicknamed La Contessa. Looking back on that conversation I am mighty embarrassed, because my ability to get a decent conversation out of my mouth was nearly non-existent. I was talking Italian baby talk!

Flash forward to this morning.  

My morning ritual on days when I get to the beach is to set up my chair, spend a few hours enjoying the sun and surf relaxing, then pack up to head home. On my way off the beach I stop for a coffee at the bar at our beach. 

Today, I reversed my routine, stopping first for that coffee.  I carried my cup to my usual table and discovered La Contessa and a group of friends were also having coffee at the next table. I hadn't been there in a few weeks due to a nasty cold, so hadn't seen La Contessa since the last visit. She introduced me to her friends, and we proceeded to get into a lively conversation about a variety of topics. 

Just thinking about the range of topics has me laughing still now, hours after having come back from the beach. La Contessa had recently read a book in Italian called A Brief History of America, or something like that, in which she learned about the settlement at Jamestown, and the war of 1812, and the Civil War. She commented that of all the American presidents, she likes Lincoln. So we talked about Lincoln. And Jamestown. Jamestown, of all things!

The Lido coffee bunch had an assortment of questions for me. Tops on the list, of course, were all things Trump. Seems I can not avoid that topic anywhere these days, although I would love to. I got asked about food in New Orleans, the weather in Seattle, and the mafia in New Jersey.  Cracks me up.

But what amazes me even more than the choice of topics is that I am holding my own in these conversations this year. Not bumbling, but actually getting  information shared, thoughts conveyed, opinions expressed.

Language-wise, it's a whole different year. Karen is happy.

 So, thanks Francesca, for tolerating me, pushing me, encouraging me and never giving up on me.

Il Postino - the postman cometh.....or not

At the back of our orto is a gigantic old apricot (albicocca) tree which had been unfortunately, dormant since we've moved in. This year it decided to make up for it in spades. We had more apricots than we could eat, give or throw away. Mike decided he'd try his hand at apricot jam (marmalatta), and successfully made several batches of the stuff. We're set for apricot marmalatta until next year. (Watch, our tree will decide to go back to sleep again for a few years again!)

Our tomato (pomodoro) crop was also prolific this year, so Mike canned stewed tomatoes. 

Recently I eyed a crate of black figs (fichi neri) at the  market. There was NO WAY I was getting by them.  Three kilos of those beauties came home with me for a batch of fig marmalatta. 

 They are beauties, aren't they?  

 Those 3 kilos became 10 pints of glorious fig jam!

What I've neglected to tell you about all of our summer canning adventures is that we didn't own a canning pot. And now we're getting to the crux of this blog. You know that humongous pot you put the jars into to boil?  We'd been doing the boiling part of the process by putting 2-3 jars at a time into our largest pot, boiling and repeating until we'd done all the jars. Tedious. Mike and I both came to the conclusion it was time to purchase a canning pot.  I looked all over Venice. Didn't find one. I might have been able to find one somewhere in Mestre, however I just didn't want to spend the time hauling there and back. 

My fall back is always to search the internet. I found just what wanted on Ebay. It was a no-brainer. I ordered, and paid extra shipping from the USA to make sure it was delivered safely.  All I needed to do was sit back and wait for the delivery guys. Sweet. 

Yes- this thing! Remember your grandmother always had one?  Now I have one too!

Ebay was great about sending emails with tracking status. I knew when my pot had left the warehouse, I knew it had made it to customs in Europe, and I knew an approximate date it would be delivered to my doorstep. On Thursday, I received an email late in the day informing me that the delivery guy had been to the house, but no one was home.  Odd, I thought, that he didn't leave a card or note informing me that they'd been here and instructions for re-delivery.  I called the shipping company and finally managed to arrange for him to return the following day.  (The voice mail systems of all Italian companies need some help. I'm forever lost in menu system hell, but with some courage and perseverance I managed to get what I needed done.

Friday we waited at home all day long. About 5pm I phoned the shipping company again. They told me the guy had been at the house at 2:10 pm but no one was home.  Strange. I know Mike and I were there all day long, purposely waiting for this canning pot. And weird again that no note was left on the door. The guy clearly never came in the first place. The woman from the delivery company explained they would not make another attempt to bring it to the house, instead it  would be sent to the local post office. I should wait until Tuesday, then go collect it from the post office at San Marco. I reiterated "San Marco, right? "  "Si".  I clearly understood that part.

I ended up hauling my grocery cart (carello) to the San Marco post office on Wednesday morning.
And had to haul right through ...this.  Water. Now I love a good photo op as much as the next person, but I don't particularly love acqua alta when I have to haul a big box strapped to my carello.

At the post office, the guy at the counter handling dispensing of deliveries asked me for the tracking number. I had only what was emailed me by Ebay. No, not that. He wanted the number the delivery company used. Don't have it. They didn't leave me anything. By the look on his face I knew he wasn't happy with me. Could he possibly locate my package by my name?  I handed him my passport. He grumbled a little, but went off to the backroom passport in hand. 

He came back to the counter with my passport in hand, and no big box.  Nothing here for you, signoria. Try at Rialto. 

So. I hauled myself and my carello from St. Mark's to the post office at Rialto and prepared myself for round 2.  When it was my turn at the sportello, I again explained that I only had the tracking number Ebay had sent me in an email message. No. Not that number. Ok. Could you locate it by my name, here's my passport.  He looked at my passport and looked back at me. Nothing here for that name. Are you sure?  Yes. And then he dismissed me with the hand signal that means "Go away".  As I was collecting up my purse he opened up a blue folder to show me that there was nothing logged in with my name on it, when low and behold he sees my name on the list. AHA!  They do have my package.  

Then he looks up at me, smiles, and says "Signora, you should trust us. "  What?  Didn't he just shoo me away after declaring there was no package for me?  

He trots off to the back room and returns with a small package. It has my name on it, but it obviously is not a canning pot. It in fact was for me, a book, that had not been delivered to my house ever, and I had never received any delivery notice telling me to pick it up at the post office. I was overjoyed to receive my book.  The guy mistakenly thought  my signs of happiness were meant for him.  Again he gave me the "shoo" hand signal.  

I asked if he could double check because I was supposed to pick up a big box,  I even showed him a photo of the canning pot.  No, nothing else for you here. Shoo, shoo.  As I am picking up my purse, the guy does exactly the same thing. He opens up the blue folder containing his package log, and low and behold, he finds a second entry with my name on it.  "Yes!  We have a package for you, Signora"

He smiles and trots off to find my box. When he returned, with my very large brown box, he says  again, "See- You should trust us."  

Me being me, I wanted to explain the absurdity of that. Instead I flashed a huge smile, thanked him profusely and let him think he had done the greatest favor for me of my life. 

And then I proceeded to do what he wanted in the first place. Shoo. Shoo.  

I wrapped all my bungee cords around my huge box and wheeled out into acqua alta again. 

We are now the very happy owners of one extra large canning pot, which we have already inaugurated.  Our orto is overflowing with hot peppers just itching to be turned into Hot Pepper Jelly.

Just part of our hot pepper crop this season.  I think there are a few more batches of hot pepper jelly to be made!

  Our hot pepper jelly just out of the pot this afternoon

Despite the hassle, I am sure that the next time I need/want something I will  just order it online and suffer with having to deal with the post office, as much as I detest it. After all, I am supposed to trust them, right? 

Redentore 2015 -How to enjoy it like a local

What do you do after the plague decimates your city?  You throw a huge party!  And Venice, the hostess with the most-est,  has been hosting the best post-Plague party ever every year since 1592.

Festa del Redentore 2015 kicks off Saturday night.  This is a big, big deal here in Venice. The plague years hit Venice hard back in 1575 (and again in 1630), and Venetians will never forget it. In fact, every year since the Redentore church first opened it's doors  Venetians have held a special celebration to give thanks for the end of this devastating plague. 

Back then, the Doge and Senators would be the first to walk across a temporary bridge constructed of barges, crossing from the Zattere in Dorsoduro to the Giudecca side of the Giudecca canal to attend a special mass. 

                        (photo thanks to Hermann Ceriello, FB group Venezia ieri e oggi)

Today, the same procession takes place, only the bridge of barges has been replaced by a pontoon bridge constructed across the Giudecca canal.  

In order to join in the celebration and enjoy it like a local, here's some hopefully helpful information and a few tips.

1. The pontoon bridge opens at 7 pm on Saturday night (July 18) after a special brief ceremony is conducted by the Mayor of Venice, the Patriarch of Venice and several other invited dignitaries.  As soon as this ceremony concludes, masses of people will make the pilgrimage across this special bridge to begin attending mass at the Church of the Redentore, and also to take up the their positions along the canal to watch the fireworks later.

Tip:  If you want to see the ceremony and be one of the first across the bridge, plan to arrive at the Zattere side of the bridge early, around 6:30. Note- and this is important- the bridge is CLOSED to all traffic at around 11pm, and remains closed until the fireworks end. So- if you plan to over to the Giudecca side, get there earlier. That also means if you are on the Giudecca side, you are staying there until all of the fireworks are over and the bridge is opened up again. It helps to know what you are getting into before you start. 

2. Beginning around 7pm, local families will begin eating dinner along both sides of the Giudecca canal, and also on the St. Mark's side from in front of the Doge's Palace along the Riva degli Schiavoni  on down to the Giardini. They typically stake out their favorite spot the day before, and either leave chairs and tables there or mark off their space with masking tape.  Reserving space works on the honor system, but you better believe everyone respects each other!

Tip: Do like the locals do, and have your dinner canal side. Just be sure to NOT take up a spot already reserved.  Pack a picnic for yourself. Shop at one of the local grocery stores (Conad on the Zattere or Punto in Campo Santa Margherita are great choices).  Hit their deli section and buy some already made Venetian specialties.  Best choices to eat like a local-  Baccala and Sarde in Saor (fried sardines in marinated onions).  Some cold pasta salad would be a good choice and for desert, you must, absolutely MUST have watermelon.  It's tradition.  Tuck a bottle or two of wine or prosecco into your bag and you are all set.   

3. Fireworks- some of the BEST fireworks known to man - begin just before midnight. No matter where you are sitting (or standing), it's going to be a great show. After the fireworks, the mass exit begins. Be prepared for this and you will enjoy your Redentore experience much better. There will be upwards to 200,000 people at the fireworks, and the majority of them will be headed to the train station or Piazzale Roma at about the same time, clogging all the streets.  It could take you an hour and a half to get back to your hotel, so just plan on it.

Tip: Wait until some of the crowd leaves before you attempt getting back to your hotel. If you want to make your exit easy, DON'T choose to sit on the Giudecca side of the canal. There is a major bottleneck getting back over that pontoon bridge after the fireworks are over. 

4. Mass is held in the Redentore church every hour beginning right after the bridge opens, and ending just before the fireworks begin.  Sunday morning several masses are also held.

Tip:  Do like the Venetians and attend mass, or at least go in and light a candle. 

Sunday there are several boat races held in the Giudecca canal, culminating with the race for gondoliers at 5:30 pm.

Our new mayor has announced bars and shops may remain open until 2pm on Saturday night, and,  after several years of downplaying the Redentore celebration due to dwindling funds in the city's coffers, he plans to return this year's celebrations to what it had been in years past.  This most likely will mean even more people will be coming in to the city for the events, and more party boats in the lagoon. This could also mean bigger fireworks. One can only hope.

I'm ready for Redentore 2015. We, too, will  be dining canal side right here in Castello with friends who were born, grew up, and still live  in this neighborhood. My contribution to the picnic is a torte di ricotta (very much like a cheesecake), which currently is cooling on the top of the stove.