A little fun on the Zattere the other day

Monday afternoon while taking a nice stroll along the Zattere, Mike and I had the pleasure of stumbling on a street performance. We see a number of street musicians all the time, and a fair number of mimes, but this is the first time we've seen anything like this "Circus Vagabond", as his sign described him. (The Zattere is a wonderful promenade that runs the whole length of Dorsoduro. It's a favorite spot of locals to sit at an outdoor cafe on a sunny day, enjoying a coffee, a glass of wine, or a gelato at Nico's, one of the best gelateria's in Venice.)




This young man had strung a rope between one of the Palazzo's and a street lamp on the canal side. At first we thought he was just going to joke around, and he wouldn't attempt to tightrope, but sure enough, he did it! He did a hilarious performance as he walked across this rope, I only wished I had my video camera with me. Luckily I had my little digital with me and was able to snap a few shots.

He kept the growing crowd entertained as he walked, and clowned around, all the way across the tightrope.

Then he turned around and tightroped back to the other side, grabbed onto the Palazzo, and climbed up onto the balcony. Can you just imagine what the people inside that apartment must have thought when they saw him peering into their windows!!!

Laureate festa last nite

Around 5:30 pm yesterday, I was feeling like I needed a little air. It didn't take much to convince Mike to join me for a walk to Campo Santa Margherita - the enticement of a beer at Imagina Cafe was all he needed! The campo was already crowded with all sorts of people and live bands getting ready for the last night of carnevale celebrations when we arrived.

From the outside, Imagina Cafe looked pretty quiet, which was just what I was hoping for. Once in the door, however, we discovered a fairly large party going on in the front room. There was no doubt what this was-- a graduation party. Here in Venice, they are called Laureate festa's, organized by friends and family in a local bar or cafe for the graduate. There are certain level degrees called Dottore, and these are the ones celebrated with a Laureate party. The graduate is made to walk around the city with a laurel wreath (what else?) on their head or around their neck, they are typically dressed up in some outlandish getup almost like a Halloween costume, and their friends make them do pretty awful tasks. My favorite part is when the whole assemblage starts singing at the top of their lungs a special song "Dottore, Dottore" as they march along the city streets. It reminds me of sorority and fraternity hazing. My Italian tutor Marzia tells me that this does not happen in other cities. I like that it's unique to Venice.

We see alot of these Laureate parties. Last night was the first time we were ever invited to join one. When we got inside the cafe and saw this party, we also noticed that our doctor was in attendance too! Our doctor has his office in Campo Santa Margherita also. We see him regularly, both in his office or walking in the neighborhood. He never looks up when he is walking, and even in the office he is fairly brief in all conversations. So last night Mike and I were incredibily surprised when the doctor approached us, with a huge smile on his face, said hello and invited us to have a drink of prosecco with them. He was the father of the Laureate!! We were going to decline his invitation, but he wasn't having any part of it. He spoke to us in Italian and English, handed us drinks, then brought his son over to meet us. Our dottore was very proud of his son! He also offered us desserts, lovely little pastries from - where else- Tonolo. He could see that I was going to decline the dessert, so he laughed and told me not to worry about my cholesterol tonight! Wow---he not only knew who we were, but he remembered my ailments!!

It was pretty much the end of their Laureat festivities, but we enjoyed being included for a few minutes at least. This was way more than just a polite glass of prosecco, this was another sign that we're being accepted into the community, and by the last person I would have ever expected it from!

Carnevale 2010 !!!!!

Carnevale is Venice's version of Mardi Gras- it's 10 days of merriment and debauchery, elaborate costumes, parades, masquerade balls, confetti and delicious dolci (sweets). And I have been waiting for this! This year it runs from Feb 6-Feb 16. There are big events scheduled every day, and then some smaller "themed"events in many of the larger campos spread thoughout the city. Last year, and again this year the theme has been 6 Sestiere's -6 Senses. In each Sestiere, a different sense- touch, taste, feel, sight, etc. is represented.

Even though we've been here two years, I've managed to miss Carnevale both times. The first year, my arrival flight from the USA was on the very first day of Carnevale. You'd think I would have dropped everything and run out to see costumes. Unfortunately it was pouring rain, and I'd just had an overnight flight, with dog in tow. It rained for 9 more days, and I was in government offices knee deep in my first go-round with the Italian beaurcratic system. No Carnevale for me.

Last year, I just happened to be in the United States wrapping up the sale of our home there, so again, I missed Carnevale. You can imagine how anxious I have been for this one to arrive!

This winter has been cold, and pretty wet, with an unusual amount of Aqua Alta too. Saturday February 6th, the first day of Carnevale, was wet as well. I somehow thought that Saturday was also the day of the big opening celebrations in St. Mark's square, so I made my way there in the rain in the hopes of getting some good photos.

My first costume sighting was this older French couple on the streets just outside of St. Mark's Square. Despite the rain and cold, they were out smiling, stopping for all of us to snap a shot.

I entered St. Mark's square expecting a huge crowd, and found none. They were still putting the finishing touches on the stage area, which had this enormous topiary of a winged lion, complete with fresh fruit- those are carrots on the wings and apples on the feet! But what happened to the opening ceremonies??? I phoned Mike, who informed me that I had the wrong day- they are on Sunday, not Saturday. Just as well, it was cold and wet. I went home, dead set on being back in St. Mark's square on Sunday, even if it was still raining.

You see all sort of costumes during Carnevale week, even ones that look just like Halloween costumes we're used to in the U.S. The kids particularly are dressed like action heros, princesses, Tiggers. Here are two little girls out in the rain too, throwing confetti.

Opening cermemonies on Sunday were to start at noon with the Flight of the Angel. This is a slide down a cable that is extended from the top of the Campanile (bell tower), to the main stage on the other side of the square. Every year a celebrity makes the Flight, this year it is a young Italian actress named Bianca Brandolini D'Adda. See her sliding down the cable in this photo? Not sure I would ever do that, she was a brave one!

After the angel descent, the only way to move anywhere in St. Mark's Square was to just allow yourself to be pushed along with the mass of people moving along. The crowd was moving -inching really. It was actually frightful for a few minutes, but eventually I made it to the other side of the square. I didn't get to see the parade from the main stage to the Doge's Palace, but I did manage to catch some great shots of all the parade participants at the end of the parade when they sort of dumped out along the Molo in front of the Doge's Palace. I was quite disappointed not to have spotted the Doge, though.

I loved this guys costume. It just seems so perfect for his face.

Kids are in costume everwhere also. There were so many people, most of the smaller children were up on shoulders. Here's a tiny Dumbledore!

The two big categories of costumes you see at Carnevale are Period Costumes and Fantasy Costumes. I love them both, but obviously I am fascinated by the fantasy type. The imagination that goes into their creation is beyond words.

Of all the costumes I observed today, I think this guy below is my favorite.

And this woman has my favorite hat---- I want it!

And this group in red was fabulous.

At 2pm, there is the Marie's parade, from San Pietro di Castello, the old Cathedral, all the way down Riva degli Schiavoni to St. Mark's Square. Twelve lovely young women are selected in a sort of beauty pagent event earlier in the week to portray the 12 Marie's. During the parade, they are carried along the parade route. Many other groups make up the parade, including groups from other areas of Italy, all in period costumes. Puglia and L'Aquila sent groups of marching drummers and flag throwers this year.

The first two of the 12 Marie's are carried by gondoliers. The others are carried by regular guys wearing costumes of white shirts, black pants and a red sash at the waist. Here's the first Marie..

This is another very elaborate costume we saw on the streets just after the Marie's Parade ended.

The only thing that might have made this day even better was if I were inside one of those costumes myself!!!

My Italian Mammogram

The other day during my weekly Italian lesson, we got into another discussion on the topic of differences between the US and here. I had recently had my first mammogram in Italy, and boy was that a different experience! It occurred to me that I had not mentioned it here yet, so here goes.

I've received a notice in the mail with an appointment date and time for my routine mammogram, courtesy of the Italian national health system. I needed my dictionary to plow through the letter, but I was able to make out that I was to go at 5pm on a particular day to an office in the San Basilio neighborhood. It also said if I needed a different appointment I could call and change it. The date and time worked out for me, so I put it on my calendar.

On the appointed date, I set off with the letter in my hand thinking I can easily find the place I was supposed to go to. Ok, chalk up another one for Venice, I cannot find this address. I walk up and down the street where I believe I should be, but cannot find anything that matches the address printed on this letter. I stopped to ask to the woman at the local vegetable stall, thinking, she is local, she must know where the office for mammograms is located. She had no recognition of what I was asking for, even after I pulled out the appointment letter for her to read. Then the vegetable man pipes up (in Italian, mind you). "Oh... you want the mammografia. It's there, over that bridge, then go down the street a little bit, on the left. "

How he knew where it was but she didn't have a clue, I don't know. But, I was grateful someone could help. After thanking them both, I head over the bridge. Isn't this so typical of Venice? "Oh, yes, just over that bridge ...." And what is really funny is that most days I find myself as the direction giver for tourists who have lost their way in this veritable maze of a city. This day it's me who needs assistance!

Over the bridge, down the street a little bit, and to the left. I do that, and find only two fairly large vans in a little parking lot type spot, the kind of vans that reminded me of a mobile library or blood bank. Here's an AHA moment.. it's a mobile mammography laboratory! Isn't this ingenious??? There is a young woman outside one of them, smoking. I show her my appointment letter and she instructs me to go inside. We went in. There is a little desk area set up with a laptop, which she uses to enter my information. When she finished, she instructed me to go into the next van. I can do that.

In the next van, there is a tiny "undressing" room, with a notice on the wall which says to take off all your clothing down to the waist and wait until you are called. This is pretty standard fare for mammograms. I look around, there are NO disposable gowns, no non-disposable gowns, no gowns of any type. It occurs to me that we are going "alfresco" for this one. Oh boy. This is very standard fare for Italy. Recently when I had to go for xrays, I discovered no gowns. Here, we have it again. OK. So I got myself ready and waited.

A few minutes later, I heard a man call my name. I had always had a female technician in the US whenever I had mammograms done. So here I have a strange man, I am naked to the waist, and he is going to have to position my boobs this way and that for these x-rays. I hesitated for a moment, just couldnt make my legs walk to get out of the dressing room and into the exam room. I had to talk myself into it. I just grit my teeth and got through it.

All of us who have experienced a mammogram know it is, what shall I say, a tiny bit painful ? I must admit though, of all the people I have ever gotten this exam from, this male technician was the most gentle of them all. So there was an up-side to the whole event.

I have knee surgery coming up soon, I really have to get used to this "no gown" thing!

Today marks 2 years in Venice.... due anni a Venezia!

That's right, two years ago today I arrived in Venice with 4 suitcases, a huge dog crate, and my dog Sam. Mike, who I hadn't seen in 10 days, was waiting right outside baggage claim at Marco Polo airport for us, and what a welcome sight he was! This wasn't the usual arrival for us, this was not a 3 or 4 week vacation. This was for forever, ....or so we hoped.

Looking back, I have no idea where these two years have flown by to. Every single day I get up still amazed that we are here to begin with, and still so enamored with this place.

We've accomplished all the big items that were necessary for our long term stay here by the end of the first year. It took that long. Way longer than we ever expected, but very thankfully behind us. Nothing worthwhile ever comes easy. I'll never forget that! We're now intimately familiar with the Questura in Marghera, and the Anagrafe office,and a few other offices at city hall. One would think that after having had to endure all of the hardships I've been through, all of the hoop-jumping I've done for things that seemed so simple yet became so difficult, that perhaps we would have been very willing to pack up those 4 suitcases and hightail it out of here. Oh hell no!!! All that crapola just made me that much more determined to see this through.

With the difficult stuff behind us, our goals are alittle bit simpler these days.... learn the language, make new friends.

Tonight we celebrate. Now we are really "living the dream" ---every single day.

Campo Santa Margherita

If you have been reading my blogs, you know by now that we not only live close to Campo Santa Margherita, but also that it's become like a second home to us. This is where we buy our fish regularly from the fish vendors who have stalls here Tuesday thru Saturday. It's where we buy our vegetables and fruit when we don't have time to plan a trip to the Rialto Market, it's where we walk the dogs, it's where we hang our for coffee or a glass of Prosecco. We even have our weekly Italian lessons at a caffe in this campo.

In the heart of the Dorsoduro sestiere you will find Campo Santa Margherita, one of the largest campos in Venice. Campo, by the way, is the Italian word for field. The campos, for me, are like the heart of each little neighborhood. Santa Margherita also has the most lively night life, with caffes staying open till around 2am most nights. Just about everything else in Venice is closed up by 11 pm.

Right smack in the middle of the Campo Santa Margherita is this water fountain. There are water fountains throughout the city, in campo after campo, with the best fresh - and free- drinking water. I always carry a bottle with me and fill up when I am out walking. But only this one has the mermaid carved on it. I like to think the mermaid is on it as a symbol of our friendly fish mongers.

Yesterday's find

I've tried to keep my little digital camera in my purse at all times, just for occassions like this. Yesterday on our walk, Mike took a slight detour to snap this photo. We've been looking for this spot, but somehow always seem to miss it. Now it's been found! If you are a Katherine Hepburn fan, or a follower of movies having anything remotely to do with Venice, you probably recognize this location.

My Italian Hairdresser

I realized today that I have an appointment on Saturday with Simone, my hairdresser. Remembering my last appointment has me laughing all over again, and I'm anticipating what Saturday's visit will be like already. Simone has been the subject of a previous blog, but I can't help talking about him again.

During my last appointment, I got a color and cut. Yes, it's true, I color my hair. I'm just not ready to go grey, won't even be thinking about that. Anyway, Simone is a master at hair color! Since I am still not speaking a ton of Italian (I'm improving, but not there yet), our conversation is limited. He always has some new technique to put highlights in or some such thing, I have no idea what he does, I just leave everything to him. And he is always delighted with the results, as am I.

I also am completely in awe of the way Simone cuts hair. He snips away on your wet head of hair, then steps back, says "Basta!" (No more!). Then he breaks out into a huge smile. Again, as with the the color, I leave things to him. I'm always really happy when I leave his studio because of the magic he creates!

Simone is always after me to just leave my hair go naturally curly, something I have fought my whole life. I've given in to him, I'm not sure why. Perhaps it's because everywhere you look there is a curly headed Italian woman, I fit right in! So, most of the time, I allow him to let me leave his studio with a head full of curls. This time, after he finished cutting, I begged him to blow dry it out straight, which he did. And at the end, he said the funniest thing. He asked how I liked it, which of course, I did. Then he says, in his best English with his great accent.... "The color is good,yes? .....but..... for the curly hair, it would be beautiful".

I have a strong suspicion I will be leaving his studio with curly hair on Saturday !

We've hit the two year anniversary!!!!!

Yesterday was the two year anniversary of the arrival of Mike and his dog Leopold in Venice. Where did that time fly by to????? It seems like only yesterday, to be honest. So, in honor of this fabulous occassion, we went out dinner to celebrate.

I had in my head I wanted to go to Osteria da Toni's again. We'd been there when the weather was warm and I had the some of the best Spaghetti con Vongole (Spaghetti with clams) I'd ever had. It's not only a favorite of mine, it's a Venetian traditional dish. So, we got bundled up and walked over to da Toni's, only to discover they were closed. Around this time of year, that's not so unusual. Many of the restaurants and shops either close for an extended holiday or to do yearly maintenance and remodeling, while the tourist season is so slow.

Our backup plan if da Toni didn't work out was to go to Campo San Barnaba and try to get into one of our favorites there. Lucky for us Quattro Feri had an available table at 8pm. My preference in restaurants here is the small ones, with authentic cooking and have an older ambiance to them. These are my favorites. Quattro Feri never disappoints us! They even have a daily hand written menu! We started with, of course, some prosecco for me,and white wine for Mike. The rest of the meal was shared appetizer of Scampi al Saor, Spaghetti con vongole for me and a lasagna with fish and asparagus for Mike.

The Scampi al Soar was the best!!! This is also a Venetian traditional dish. Most often you will find Sardines in saor, but the recipe is the same. It's got onions, raisins, pine nuts, and is sort of a sweet and sour taste. I know, doesn't sound great, but be adventurous and you are in for a real treat! It's delicious, and if you are ever in Venice, you must try this.

After dinner, we made a stop around the corner to visit with i ragazze (the boys) at Imagina Cafe and top off the night with another glass of prosecco. Great night!

Now I am already looking forward to January 25, which is the 2 year anniversary of my arrival with my dog Sam.

Wherever you are out there, come on and join me in a toast to many more glorious years!

My new US passport has arrived.... it's a miracle!!!

I am a happy -- and very surprised-- woman. Yes, I am jumping for joy!!!!! My new passport has been delivered by mail today. And regular mail, at that. This is a long story, but one that has to be told. We should all grab a cup of tea to help us get through this one!!!!

Sadly, I suffered the loss of my passport less than 2 weeks after I moved to Venice, back early February 2008. You always hear horror stories about people being ripped off in the train stations, and here it happened to me. In the blink of an eye, my wallet including all my money, my credit cards and identification, my passport, and a brand new Blackberry were lifted from my purse, in the Florence train station. I've traveled safely in Europe for years, and still this happened to me. There are no words that can describe how violated you feel when you are the victim. But worse, there is then the realization that you have no money, not one dime on you. I had no return train ticket, and no means to purchase one. I didn't even have the ability to call my husband. Fortunately, I had relatives meeting me at the station who were incredibly supportive through the whole ordeal. We had to make the police report, call the US consulate in Florence to report the stolen passport, call to my US bank and credit card companies. Everything was replaceable, but what a pain in the butt. Through the whole ordeal I had visions of me having to put a scarf over my head and kneel down to beg for money in the train station in order to get home. Now that was a real nightmare.

I got through the first phase of the process, making all the calls. Next I had to get replacement documents and credit cards, including my passport. I needed to go back to Florence. I really didn't want to set foot anywhere near that train station again anytime soon, but, in order to get the replacement passport, that was required. Nothing is ever easy.

I called the Consulate in Florence to ask what their open hours are, they told me 9-12. That's all they told me. The next monday I got on the train headed back to Florence, took a cab to the Consulate, and discovered they were closed, for Presidents Day. We're in Italy, who celebrates Presidents Day??? This trip was a bust. I went back to Venice.

It turns out you just can't walk into the US consulate anyway, even if you were standing right at the front door, you have to make an appointment. The website says that people from Venice are supposed to go to the Milan consulate. So, instead of going to the closest consulate, the one that is only 2 hours away, I was supposed to go double the distance. I called the Florence consulate and explained what I wanted. They agreed to give me an appointment in Florence instead. Thank you, God.

On the appointed day I arrived in Florence by train, then took a taxi cab to the Consulate. Again. And got turned away for being early. They won't even let you wait outside in front of the building. The guard showed me where a caffe was down the street and told me to come back 5 minutes before my scheduled time.

I did as directed. I went for a cup of tea, and returned at the correct time. My name was cross checked on a clip board, I was let inside the huge front door. Hmmm... this is a bit like getting in to see the Wizard of Oz. My purse and coat went through the x ray machine, I also walked through the machine, and my cell phone was put in a drawer. I was ushered into a waiting area and given forms to fill in. I had everything I had been instructed to bring- 100 dollars in US currency, the police report, a photocopy of my passport (thank goodness I had this), and 2 recent passport size photos. Take a note: If you are over here and this happens to you, make sure you tell someone at the photos store exactly what you want the photos for. US Passport photos are a different size than European passport photos.

The process was painless once I got to the woman behind the thick plexiglass window. She examined all my papers, and told me to sit down and wait again. A few minutes later, a different consulate official came to the window, called my name, had me sign a form, raise my right hand and swear to something. I was given a temporary passport good for 12 months, and an instruction sheet for how to obtain a permanent passport.

To get the permanent passport, you need to return to the Consulate, with the temporary passport and the instruction sheet, anytime before the expiration date on the temporary passport. I heaved a sigh of relief, got myself back to the Florence train station, and put the whole ordeal out of my head, thinking I will deal with the permanent passport some other time. I just wanted this to disappear for awhile.

I had much bigger fish to fry, managing all the legal stuff required for my citizenship, which took months and months. I knew that my US passport expired in February 2009, and had that date in the back of my mind. In December of 2008, my daughter came to visit and we went to Florence. I called the Consulate to see if I could get an appointment while we were there. No. It was the holidays. I made a mental note to call back right after the holidays, as I would need to get this task done before end of February.

In January, our house sold in Baltimore. I needed to get back to the USA pronto to get the house emptied and do the settlement. And this brought up passport issues again. GRRRRR. I thought I could travel on my brand new Italian passport, but upon calling the US Consulate in Florence, I discovered I needed my US passport in order to enter or leave US territory. My temporary passport would expire before I would be done with my business in the US, so I had a huge dilemma. I ended up having to get special permission from the Consulate General in Florence to re-issue another temporary passport. And yes, another trip back to Florence. And another 100 dollars in US currency.

I went back to see the wizard, and this time walked out with a second temporary passport. Not their normal protocol, but they were cutting me some slack. I didn't argue.

I've been back from the US almost a year. You've probably already guessed that I put getting my replacement passport WAYYYY on the back burner until now. Yup. Guess what I found out during all the time that had transpired. Low and behold, all this time there has been a US Consulate office right here in Venice. It's been here for 4 years, and my, oh my, they handle replacement passports. I was bound and determined I was NOT returning to Florence to get this completed this time.

In mid- December, I did some additional research on the US Consulate website and found the email address for this Venice office. I emailed the same day, and got back a response that said to call them. I called, got voicemail. I made 4 phone calls, left messages, and eventually later that day I did get a return phone call. Wow. There actually is a real live US Consulate representative in Venice. I made an appointment for the next week. I gathered the list of things required: the temporary passport- check, the receipt for the 100 dollars US I'd already paid- check, the information document I had been given by the Florence Consulate - check, a stamped self-addressed envelope- check , and 2 current passport photos. They have a photo machine in the office, so for 10 Euros I can get those done on site.

The US Consulate office for Venice is located at the airport, down near the water taxi stands. I took the bus from Piazzale Roma to the airport, walked down to the docks, rang the bell at the Consulate office, and was buzzed in. No x ray machines, no big doors or hoopla waiting for the wizard this time. The woman behind the desk was pleasant, cheerful and very helpful. She took all my stuff, and told me I should probably have my passport no later than January 11. I asked - should I come pick it up?? No need, it will come in the mail. Are you sure? I have had a devil of a time getting things like books, packages, Christmas cards even delivered in any timely manner in the regular Italian mail. She assured me everything would be fine.

Darned if I didn't get an email from the Milan Consulate office last week informing me that my passport was ready. And today it arrived in my mailbox.

This whole experience has been a cross between Mission: Impossible and easing on down the yellow brick road to see the Wizard. There certainly was no "easing" going on anywhere along my path!!! Having lived through this, I am positive I will need the 10 years break before this passport expires and I attempt to tackle this one again. By that time I hope they have a system where they insert some kind of chip under the skin in my arm. Yes, I vote for that. How much could that hurt?